Poly vs. Rubber Bushings vs. Rod Ends
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Poly vs. Rubber Bushings vs. Rod Ends
OK, so on my rear suspension I need to replace all the bushings. Since I am tracking the car I would like to go with something on the stiffer side but I do not have the money to go with all Banski stuff.
So, I would like to do the poly thing all the way around but I have read about possible binding in the dog bones with poly and that the bushings can "ovalize." So I am thinking about rubber here or possibly biting the bullet for the Banski stuff just to replace the dog bones.
One question on the Banski stuff. If/when I have an off-track excursion are these pieces as tough as the stock suspension pieces?
Thanks.
--Calvin
So, I would like to do the poly thing all the way around but I have read about possible binding in the dog bones with poly and that the bushings can "ovalize." So I am thinking about rubber here or possibly biting the bullet for the Banski stuff just to replace the dog bones.
One question on the Banski stuff. If/when I have an off-track excursion are these pieces as tough as the stock suspension pieces?
Thanks.
--Calvin
#2
Team Owner
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Its a Corvette.
If your concerned about "Ride Quality" buy a Buick!
Go with poly and enjoy the renewed responsiveness of a great American Sports Car!
It all depends on what you hit. IMO about the same.
If your concerned about "Ride Quality" buy a Buick!
Go with poly and enjoy the renewed responsiveness of a great American Sports Car!
One question on the Banski stuff. If/when I have an off-track excursion are these pieces as tough as the stock suspension pieces?
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
You notice I didn't say anything about ride quality, as a matter of fact I said I wanted something on the stiffer side. Ride quality is not my concern. My concern is the side loading on the dog bones ovaling out the polyurethane.
#5
Le Mans Master
My poly bushings have been on for three seasons of road racing and the poly is not ovaled out. Still looks like it did when I installed it.
#6
Race Director
I believe it improved ride because it now transmits all shock thru the spring/ shock instead of through the bushing/ frame.
All this said though, but I still have stock rubber on the front. Though I did put in solid front sway bar end links and a 32mm z07 sway bar.
Also too, I have bilstein z51 shocks
All this effort imrpoved handlihg w/o sacrificing ride quite a bit.
#7
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
A point he made was regarding ride quality when moving away from rubber.
Sorry about that Chief...
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
#11
Melting Slicks
#12
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Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
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Ive done that mod and used plenty of Marine grease. Soon or later the grease will wear off and it will make that damn noise.
#14
Here are some pics of my BMR A-arms off my Trans Am. They were only on the car for 2 years. BMR made it right though. Yes they were greased with synthetic grease. So I guess you can see why I think poly bushings are crap. These poly bushings wallowed out like playdough.
Last edited by 93VettePilot; 10-30-2011 at 03:53 PM.
#16
Burning Brakes
I loved my banski suspension. There was virtually no binding, and it dealt with bumps in the road a lot better. With crappy Monroe shocks and stock rubber, the rear jumped around. With all banski+Bilsteins+bigger swaybar, the car felt a lot more planted. It's expensive, but it's great stuff.
#17
Race Director
[QUOTE=93VettePilot;1579092723]Here are some pics of my BMR A-arms off my Trans Am. They were only on the car for 2 years. BMR made it right though. Yes they were greased with synthetic grease. So I guess you can see why I think poly bushings are crap. These poly bushings wallowed out like playdough.
What would you run then (what would you replace ozone cracked bushings)?
With OEM stock rubber ?
Or is there another alternative?
What would you run then (what would you replace ozone cracked bushings)?
With OEM stock rubber ?
Or is there another alternative?
#18
#19
what about delrin?it's possible to have delrin worked on a lathe to create your custom bushings,this material is very responsive and harder than prothane or urethane...another way is teflon bushing,the stiffer way for responsivity i belive....forgive confort
description
Delrin®* is a general-purpose, homopolymer acetal. Acetal is valued for its low moisture absorption, dimensional stability, machinability and strength. Low coefficient of friction and good bearing characteristics also describe this material. Acetal is a good choice for applications requiring strength and wear resistance. It also is ideal for submerged parts, outperforming Nylon 4 to 1 in these situations. Acutech Acetal meets ASTM standard D4181 and D6100.
description
Delrin®* is a general-purpose, homopolymer acetal. Acetal is valued for its low moisture absorption, dimensional stability, machinability and strength. Low coefficient of friction and good bearing characteristics also describe this material. Acetal is a good choice for applications requiring strength and wear resistance. It also is ideal for submerged parts, outperforming Nylon 4 to 1 in these situations. Acutech Acetal meets ASTM standard D4181 and D6100.
Last edited by tunedport85inject; 11-01-2011 at 12:04 PM.
#20
Le Mans Master
I've run the stock rubber, poly' and rod/heim joint setups (VB&P stuff) over the years. IMO the heim joints are the only way to go if your serious about maintaining suspension angles/geometry. I've had some issues with the FK rod ends holding up/wearing out....as they wear out I been swaping them with the "teflon" lined Competition Engineering rod ends which seem to be a excellent alternative so far.