leesvet

I was wondering...

has anyone had any experience with the various VATS decoder bypass kits?

PainLess wiring (and several others) sells one that simply plugs in where the decoder used to and it sends a 30hz signal to the ECM so everything is happy...
Thats around $75. Anyone know if they really work?

There are plans/drawings for a DIY bypass that you can build for $5 with a few things bought from Rattio Shack, that sell the plan for $10.
I have no reason to believe this isn;t very do-able. Its just a matter of someone back-engineering the decoder to see how to generate a 30hz signal with the available voltage...so the ECM is happy.

Anyone ever messed with one of these kits? I know its this is a project more for the real wire nut, but its not that complicated. My question...anyone done it and does it work? does it last?

Just looking at ALL the options for ending the VATS decoded problem.
I can either:

a. get the vats delete on the chip

b. find a replacement decoder module (mines failing)

c. get a vats decoder bypass plug-in (either kit or a plug-n-play part)

WVZR-1

There's NOS correct for "most" codes available on eBay for $100 - I don't know why if for $100 I could accomplish a "fix" why I'd try any kit or DIY. I thought you said you could do the resistor on the "board". It's been months and still not done? There's used for much less but then you would need to ID the resistance and cut a key!!

1228548 should work for an NOS search.

16045121 for used "best offer"!

"87Bob" has been parting a car and I'm quite sure he'd know what his VATS resistance is/was and if he still has it I'm sure it would be real "inexpensive". Might be worth an ask!

larryfs

How about FIXING the VATS !!!!!!!!!!!!
99% of problems are solved with replacing the lock cylinder.

I would never leave my car anywhere without a working VATs.


I still don't understand till this day, why people spend hours, and build web sites on how to defeat the system, when they never tried FIXING it !!!!

leesvet

Well,
I can;t find a decoded module...I've found (and bought) forced entry modules, and those are everywhere but the decoder seems to be rare. Not sure it they get tossed or grabbed up, but they are hard to find.

I thought I had mine worked out...When it would act up, it was a simple matter to unplug/plug in the decoder and it was fine. This made me think there was something loose in the plug or on the board so I made the plug tighter, got the board checked and made it tight in the mount and all was well. It wasn;t an emergency but replacing or deleting was still on the list. Got side tracked for a few weeks to deal with my new friends at the IRS ...now that problem is gone I can get back to car stuff...

Anyway, I'll search the part numbers. I've been all over ebay and elsewhere today looking for clues. I've found a simple decoder bypass or simulator that I'm going to buy and use, until I can find the decoder module that I need.

FWIW,
I did see a drawing from a GM schematic that stated that when replacing a decoder, they would accept whatever key & code was in use and do that only the first time, after that the decoder was set to that code. There had been some question as to how the 15 possible codes were available in new modules ...but it appears that the modules were generic and able to adapt to the existing code..once.

WVZR-1

Both of the numbers I posted when searched on eBay by themselves will yield a result!! For sure!


The early module WILL NOT LEARN - you either need to buy the correct one or you'll need to run an integrator of some sort after installed and cut a new key with the correct resistance!

TA

I did replace my lock cylinder and keys and the system is working perfectly now. That being said, I'd bypass it an instant...............what a PITA Vats is

Any halfwit thief can get your corvette.........Vats or not

WVZR-1

I don't believe the "cylinder fix" is anywhere near your quoted success rate - nowhere near. You seem to imply that the first move should be "just do it" - sillyness!

The same components aren't used on all vehicles. Ideally I believe it's more practical to diagnose a system if you understand it but when you don't and neither do those that toss out attempts at a fix or bypass instructions it gets certainly more confusing and annoying.

I've never bypassed a VATS except for diagnostics in a PROM one time and that was for the "fuel enable" aspect of the VATS which diagnostics indicated. There's more to VATS other than "no cranks" much more. This car cranked. That by-pass left the crank aspect of VATS intact and only enabled fuel. Where was the error? Quite likely the CCM from codes and trouble shooting. A NLA CCM rebuilt is something near or greater than $300 (providing yours can be), requires programming (VIN & miles) and is probably a 3 hour removal and install for someone that understands where and what they're doing.

As far as a "cost effective" fix there are certainly occasions when a by-pass is more cost effective than a repair that involves diagnostics and replacement of BCM and/or repairs to failed harnesses/connectors etc.

Time for some is "money" and customer pay diagnostics don't even sound reasonable and usually aren't.

You're quite right - it's maybe a "coin toss" to determine which is the proper approach. If a person was/is uncomfortable going into the column and never been there before it could be a determining factor. A key cylinder by-pass - less than $10 and 60 minutes - C4's!

Yes - if the thief wants it he'll get it