Can't figure out where the parasitic drain is...
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Can't figure out where the parasitic drain is...( Resolved)
I have been searching for a parasitic drain on my car.. The drain I have is 90 milliamps , the max on my 89 is suppose to be only 50 milliamps..I pulled all the fuses including the 3 square metel fuses in the fusebox while watching the meter and it never moved off of .09 milliamps..Does anyone have any ideas where else to look for a drain??...I also removed all the hookups from the altermator and still nothing..If I charge the battery to near full ( 12.80) and let it sit 2 days, when I check it again it's down to around ( 12.36), does this sound like the right amount of voltage loss for a 90 milliamp draw?..Thanks WW
Last edited by WW7; 03-12-2014 at 01:12 PM. Reason: found answer
#2
No. That is not enough to kill a battery in two days. If you have the electronic climate control there is a 12vdc feed that is on all the time that maintains the temperature setting and a few others. Ninety milliamps is like running a couple of Led's or memory chips or even a small relay. I believe there are a few other things that are fed all the time also. With the car running the battery voltage should be more like 13.7vdc. Have you checked it with it running? That voltage seems a little low. You may just have a bad/week battery. Take it to Autozone and have them test it for free.
Last edited by Klyde; 12-01-2013 at 01:51 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
No. That is not enough to kill a battery in two days. If you have the electronic climate control there is a 12vdc feed that is on all the time that maintains the temperature setting and a few others. Ninety milliamps is like running a couple of Led's or memory chips or even a small relay. I believe there are a few other things that are fed all the time also. With the car running the battery voltage should be more like 13.7vdc. Have you checked it with it running? That voltage seems a little low. You may just have a bad/week battery. Take it to Autozone and have them test it for free.
I would not answer the battery voltage drain problem as battery age and condition would influence a valid, matter of fact absolute answer. Voltage will decay somewhat over time and does not mean battery is bad.
What is the original problem? How did you discover this problem? Were you having a dead battery in a week or so or similar situation?
Obviously 90 ma is too much. On my 94 I pull 30 ma. But I think the older C4 pull only about 25ma (understood max is 50 but the norm is in the 20s).
Are you sure you are getting a good accurate reading. Got another meter to try?
Everything is usually fused except the lead to the alternator. However you have eliminated that. I know this is probably redundant for you but did you pull every fuse? Did you check lights in the sun visor, center console, hood and any other lamps. You may have to remove all fuses at one time rather the one at a time. Environmental control, PCM, body module get power all the time for memory. Not sure exactly what boxes your car has, but just giving some suggestions.
#4
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses...I descovered the car was pulling 90 MA when my car sit for about 3 days without being driven, and when I went to start it , it struggled to start..I hooked up the tester between the positive cable and the battery and it read 90 ma... I had tested it a year before that and it tested about 38 ma, so I knew I had a new drain.. I charged the "11 month" old battery with my charger up to about 12.80 volts and within 2-3 days it had dropped to 12.36 again..If the battery is down a bit and I drive the car awhile, the battery is fully charged when I get home. I also have the manual heat/AC control......WW
Last edited by WW7; 12-01-2013 at 03:12 PM.
#5
I would start with the headlamps. Yours has the control module. An actuator might not be parking.
#6
Having a battery drop a half a volt over several days after charging is not unheard of. A charger can artificially pump a battery a little higher then is normal for it. Once charger is removed the battery will electrically drift back down to a more normal level. I thought you were saying that the battery was dead after two days of setting. That small of a drain should not be enough to do that. That being said, you do have a higher then normal drain. Check visor mirror lights, console light, any additions since last year when you checked it. I leave mine on a battery tender all the time. My driving pattern fluctuates a lot so it could be days or months between runs.
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#9
Le Mans Master
Getting battery checked is not a bad idea either.
In reviewing my (limited) 89 schematics.
Headlight module not a bad thought. I had that though but discounted it because I don’t believe there is any manual switch to close. I think the headlight module senses the motor current and powers the motor down when it believes it has stopped and parked. I think the stops position will not affect proper operation. The module makes all decisions.
On the other hand if the module is defective, that is a whole different ball game. But there is no fuse for this module. It uses fuse links which I know you did not pull! So power would still be on it.
If the 89 is not like this or if I am all wet on this, just take it as a mistake.
In reviewing my (limited) 89 schematics.
Headlight module not a bad thought. I had that though but discounted it because I don’t believe there is any manual switch to close. I think the headlight module senses the motor current and powers the motor down when it believes it has stopped and parked. I think the stops position will not affect proper operation. The module makes all decisions.
On the other hand if the module is defective, that is a whole different ball game. But there is no fuse for this module. It uses fuse links which I know you did not pull! So power would still be on it.
If the 89 is not like this or if I am all wet on this, just take it as a mistake.
#10
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Getting battery checked is not a bad idea either.
In reviewing my (limited) 89 schematics.
Headlight module not a bad thought. I had that though but discounted it because I don’t believe there is any manual switch to close. I think the headlight module senses the motor current and powers the motor down when it believes it has stopped and parked. I think the stops position will not affect proper operation. The module makes all decisions.
On the other hand if the module is defective, that is a whole different ball game. But there is no fuse for this module. It uses fuse links which I know you did not pull! So power would still be on it.
If the 89 is not like this or if I am all wet on this, just take it as a mistake.
In reviewing my (limited) 89 schematics.
Headlight module not a bad thought. I had that though but discounted it because I don’t believe there is any manual switch to close. I think the headlight module senses the motor current and powers the motor down when it believes it has stopped and parked. I think the stops position will not affect proper operation. The module makes all decisions.
On the other hand if the module is defective, that is a whole different ball game. But there is no fuse for this module. It uses fuse links which I know you did not pull! So power would still be on it.
If the 89 is not like this or if I am all wet on this, just take it as a mistake.
Last edited by WW7; 12-01-2013 at 03:58 PM.
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I don't have any oil leaks, but I do need a new starter.... I have a new starter sitting down in the garage that I have to put on my car ,my original 25 year old starter is acting up..The bendix is having problems with engaging when I turn the key to start the car ... Is the starter active with the key off.?? Could this cause my drain.??...WW
Last edited by WW7; 12-01-2013 at 04:30 PM.
#14
Le Mans Master
I can't tell you for sure on the 89. But on my 94 it's on the driver's side in the headlight area kind of in line with the radiator but lower on a bracket assembly. About the size of your fist with couple connectors to it. It's kind of in an out of the way place and not very noticeable.
I would not think the starter would cause this (my opinion).
I would not think the starter would cause this (my opinion).
Last edited by pcolt94; 12-01-2013 at 04:29 PM.
#15
I don't have any oil leaks, but I do need a new starter.... I have a new starter sitting down in the garage that I have to put on my car because my original 25 year old starter is acting up..The bendix is having problems with connecting when I turn the key to start the car... Is the starter active with the key off.?? Could this be the drain.??...WW
#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Worth a look. I don't think there is anything between the battery's positive cable and the solenoid. I think it is a straight shot. The switching takes place inside the solenoid. If you disco the battery cable from the solenoid and do your test again you could confirm. It, as you well know, is in a tight spot for access.
Last edited by WW7; 12-01-2013 at 04:41 PM.
#17
Melting Slicks
My car had over 50 ma and it was one of the visor mirrors. The mirror wasn't staying on but it was corroded where the bulb is. worth checking.
#18
#19
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Im tall and removed my visors years ago to open up my field of view. But I will check to make sure the open socket isn't touching anything..... Thanks ......WW
#20