Starter wont stop
12-28-2013, 07:12 PM
#1
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Starter wont stop
Just recently my 1992 just started doing what I'm about to describe. You turn the key to start it and when you let the key go back to the on position the starter keeps going until it runs the battery out or I disconnect the battery(the engine will not start because of what looks to be an opti related problem) I already switched the relays under the dash. So I'm wondering if it's the starter relay or the ignition switch?
12-28-2013, 08:09 PM
#2
Most likely the starter solenoid sticking. The Ign switch is pretty reliable...its actuated by a rod/ shaft that is operated by the key switch...you can see and feel the rod move up/down as you rotate the key.
The starter solenoid is probably sticking. Once powered, its plunger that has a springf return, is staying in contact with the power/ground and continually running the motor. Most of the time they do the opposite, stick so it will NOT run the motor,. but these starters take a ton of abuse and they are known to get sticky solenoids on occasion. Replacements are around $100, less for rebuilt, little more for new. Aftermarket minis run a bit more.
The starter solenoid is probably sticking. Once powered, its plunger that has a springf return, is staying in contact with the power/ground and continually running the motor. Most of the time they do the opposite, stick so it will NOT run the motor,. but these starters take a ton of abuse and they are known to get sticky solenoids on occasion. Replacements are around $100, less for rebuilt, little more for new. Aftermarket minis run a bit more.
12-28-2013, 09:06 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Most likely the starter solenoid sticking. The Ign switch is pretty reliable...its actuated by a rod/ shaft that is operated by the key switch...you can see and feel the rod move up/down as you rotate the key.
The starter solenoid is probably sticking. Once powered, its plunger that has a springf return, is staying in contact with the power/ground and continually running the motor. Most of the time they do the opposite, stick so it will NOT run the motor,. but these starters take a ton of abuse and they are known to get sticky solenoids on occasion. Replacements are around $100, less for rebuilt, little more for new. Aftermarket minis run a bit more.
The starter solenoid is probably sticking. Once powered, its plunger that has a springf return, is staying in contact with the power/ground and continually running the motor. Most of the time they do the opposite, stick so it will NOT run the motor,. but these starters take a ton of abuse and they are known to get sticky solenoids on occasion. Replacements are around $100, less for rebuilt, little more for new. Aftermarket minis run a bit more.
I actually fixed a solenoid once for this problem. I really did not know what to expect but this is what I found. The plunger and the solenoid coil (inner surface) was packed with old dirt and hardened grease. I basically disassembled it, cleaned and degreased it all. Then I reassembled it and it worked like new. Maybe this will work for you if it's you problem.
Before I jumped into this kind of repair, I would check the voltage applied to the solenoid for activation to make sure it the voltage was being removed from it when the key was turned to the OFF position (before I would attempt to repair the solenoid).
12-28-2013, 10:26 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
agree with both about. Ill add one more thing the dirve gets help from disengauging from the flywheel when the engine starts. I would fix your running problem before you replace the starter,drive or solenoid.
12-29-2013, 01:14 AM
#5
exactly,.
It seems to me that those of us that wash under the hood are also rinsing crud down onto the starter and into the solenoid. I had one stick and refuse to 'throw' until tapped on. Mimicked a VATS no starter issue for months....
The CLUE is the voltage drop when the key is turned to start. In my case the things would NOT start...BUT there was a drop in voltage due to the signal going TO the solenoid. In the case of the Op its fairly obvious that power is getting there, just the opposite effect of not letting it go. Sticky plunger as pcolt94 says.
It seems to me that those of us that wash under the hood are also rinsing crud down onto the starter and into the solenoid. I had one stick and refuse to 'throw' until tapped on. Mimicked a VATS no starter issue for months....
The CLUE is the voltage drop when the key is turned to start. In my case the things would NOT start...BUT there was a drop in voltage due to the signal going TO the solenoid. In the case of the Op its fairly obvious that power is getting there, just the opposite effect of not letting it go. Sticky plunger as pcolt94 says.
01-05-2014, 01:00 PM
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I tapped the starter with a rubber mallet. With the key in the off position I have 0 volts. And when I tried to start I have 9.5 volts. Holy crap! And Now the starter is working the way it should. So it looks like it was stuck open
01-05-2014, 03:34 PM
#7
9.5 Volts is no good, you should have ~12.6.
Try again after charging your battery and letting it sit overnight.
Then take it out for a spin for about an hour and check your voltage again.
A couple things can be the cause of this. For the first one, if it does not show around 12.6 volts after sitting overnight, your battery has bad capacitance.
If you take it for a drive and check the voltage again at the terminal, and it is not around 12.6 volts, you could have an alternator that is not charging properly. At this point check the voltage at the battery terminals, if you see 12.6 here and 9.5 at the S terminal of the starter, then you have high resistance within the solenoid circuit, before the starter.
If you see 9.5v at the solenoid at over charging, when cranking, test to see if you have 9.5 volts at the battery when cranking, this would indicate that the battery cannot handle a load. During a load test, set the amperage to half of the CCA on the battery, and activate the load for 15 seconds, if the voltage drops below 9.6 volts during that 15 seconds, the battery is bad. Or if, after the load test is complete, the battery voltage is below 10.9 volts, it is also bad.
What I really think is happening, is you probably have been cranking the engine over and over without letting it run and you have drained your battery. I suggest charging it with a battery charger and not using your alternator to charge it.
Try again after charging your battery and letting it sit overnight.
Then take it out for a spin for about an hour and check your voltage again.
A couple things can be the cause of this. For the first one, if it does not show around 12.6 volts after sitting overnight, your battery has bad capacitance.
If you take it for a drive and check the voltage again at the terminal, and it is not around 12.6 volts, you could have an alternator that is not charging properly. At this point check the voltage at the battery terminals, if you see 12.6 here and 9.5 at the S terminal of the starter, then you have high resistance within the solenoid circuit, before the starter.
If you see 9.5v at the solenoid at over charging, when cranking, test to see if you have 9.5 volts at the battery when cranking, this would indicate that the battery cannot handle a load. During a load test, set the amperage to half of the CCA on the battery, and activate the load for 15 seconds, if the voltage drops below 9.6 volts during that 15 seconds, the battery is bad. Or if, after the load test is complete, the battery voltage is below 10.9 volts, it is also bad.
What I really think is happening, is you probably have been cranking the engine over and over without letting it run and you have drained your battery. I suggest charging it with a battery charger and not using your alternator to charge it.
01-05-2014, 08:41 PM
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The car dose not run at this time. I believe it's an Opti related problem that I'm working on diagnosing. And as for the battery, it is low on volts now because of the starter not wanting to stop. I did hook up my battery tender after I did the test today because I had a electrically problem in the garage which was fixed this weekend.
01-06-2014, 10:13 AM
#10
What condition is your battery in?
On large displacement motorcycles, a common problem is that the owner tries to start the bike with a weak battery. The solenoid closes and passes current to the starter, but the voltage is too low to give the starter the nesssary power. Current keeps flowing, the solenoid contacts heat as a result of the prolonged startting attempt, and the heat MELTS the contacts in the solenoid in the "closed" position. This keeps the starter "trying" to run until the battery discharges and is basically ruined. The solenoid is of course ruined too, but sometimes responds to "tapping" on it to free up the contacts, bu their contatc surface area is never again what it should be.
Just a possibility.
Jim G
On large displacement motorcycles, a common problem is that the owner tries to start the bike with a weak battery. The solenoid closes and passes current to the starter, but the voltage is too low to give the starter the nesssary power. Current keeps flowing, the solenoid contacts heat as a result of the prolonged startting attempt, and the heat MELTS the contacts in the solenoid in the "closed" position. This keeps the starter "trying" to run until the battery discharges and is basically ruined. The solenoid is of course ruined too, but sometimes responds to "tapping" on it to free up the contacts, bu their contatc surface area is never again what it should be.
Just a possibility.
Jim G
01-06-2014, 11:38 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
Mine did this a few times. In my case the engine started, but you could hear the starter still going. I would shut it down, restart and it worked fine. It did this a few times, it was the dead of winter and very cold outside. Then it stopped doing it. However a couple of weeks later I went to start it and the starter motor would run, but the gear would not engage the FW. Seems that the spring in the solenoid broke. Bought a reman'd from Autozone and replaced it. This was about four years ago, still going strong.
01-07-2014, 12:43 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
What condition is your battery in?
On large displacement motorcycles, a common problem is that the owner tries to start the bike with a weak battery. The solenoid closes and passes current to the starter, but the voltage is too low to give the starter the nesssary power. Current keeps flowing, the solenoid contacts heat as a result of the prolonged startting attempt, and the heat MELTS the contacts in the solenoid in the "closed" position. This keeps the starter "trying" to run until the battery discharges and is basically ruined. The solenoid is of course ruined too, but sometimes responds to "tapping" on it to free up the contacts, bu their contatc surface area is never again what it should be.
Just a possibility.
Jim G
On large displacement motorcycles, a common problem is that the owner tries to start the bike with a weak battery. The solenoid closes and passes current to the starter, but the voltage is too low to give the starter the nesssary power. Current keeps flowing, the solenoid contacts heat as a result of the prolonged startting attempt, and the heat MELTS the contacts in the solenoid in the "closed" position. This keeps the starter "trying" to run until the battery discharges and is basically ruined. The solenoid is of course ruined too, but sometimes responds to "tapping" on it to free up the contacts, bu their contatc surface area is never again what it should be.
Just a possibility.
Jim G
I just had this problem on a friends mustang last week end.. A low battery, will cause the Voltage to drop, when this happens the Current will increase causing the Solenoid to over heat. Make sure you keep the Battery charged up while troubleshooting the Opti problem.This Video is dated, but gives a very good Opti system description and trouble shooting help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFCja...ature=youtu.be