flyboyslc1

For a long time I had a pulsating growl from the rear of my 1991 Corvette coupe. I thought it was wheel bearings. I would jack up the car and do the wiggle test for the wheel bearings, and not find anything wrong. Eventually I heard a clicking noise when starting forward or reverse. Jacking up the car I now could see that the universal joint on passenger side was toast. So I read up on how to remove the half shaft and did the universal joint replacement away from my shop in another apartment garage where I work. Not to difficult really.

Here is a video of how I did the universal joint replacements. Hope it helps someone.

DUB

I can comment on a lot about this video.

But the ONE major problem is the choice of u-joint design.
Due to the aluminum suspension components. The U-joint needs be the special u-joints with the coating on them so your aluminum half shaft (and drive shaft) do not run into galvanic action.

This is NOT my opinion ...but is literally written in the GM parts manual. (SPICER U-joint 5-447x is clearly written.

And the only reason I am commenting on this is because I have had to replace many half shafts because someone installed the wrong design U-joint WITHOUT the special coating.

DUB

DUB

Out of the GM Corvette parts illustration catalog.






The SPICER U-joint and how it looks.








You can EASILY tell that this U-joint is a coated U-joint. The caps are NOT shiny steel.

AS always..do as you wish when it comes to repairing your Corvette. BUT...these u-joints ARE what are needed to not damage the half shafts. The SAME holds true for eh drive shaft. They also MUST be a coated u-joint.

DUB

tim87

Very nice qulaity video. Thanks for sharing

ex-x-fire

Here's a tip for you, take a dab of grease & put it into each bearing cap. This keeps the needles in line.

flyboyslc1

You can EASILY tell that this U-joint is a coated U-joint. The caps are NOT shiny steel.



DUB






Thanks DUB,

I am happy to acknowledge you as the expert on this one. My review of the FSM called out the aluminum shaft, but did not mention the coating of a u joint. My first choice for a u joint was a spicer, and they were out of stock. Second choice is what I also consider a good brand being MOOG. I asked for u joints for a 1991 Corvette and that is what they provided.

For you it may be easy to tell the difference, if you are holding them in hand. For me, not so much. Is the coating a petroleum based thing, a paint, or a plating? I can't tell by the picture?

I think I will run with what I have. One of the old ones was for sure an aftermarket u joint with a grease fitting on it. Unlikely that it had any kind of a coating on it, unless some company decided to make aftermarket u joints with grease fittings with coatings. All the yokes on my half shafts looked fine, with no corrosion. I suspect if the car had been driven wintertime with salty roads they would look differently.

Posting up the part numbers is a great help to anyone else reading this thread. Thanks!

steve

flyboyslc1

Thanks Tim,

Nice comment. My only goal is to help the Corvette community. I looked for a video using Google and didn't find one, so did the best that I could to create one. When the u joint failed, I was 150 miles from home and tried to decide if I should try to limp it home and do the work. Instead I drove the pickup home and brought back everything I could think of to do the job. Obviously didn't remember everything, but what I brought back allowed me to get the repair made.

steve

Silver96ce

You did a great job and considering you did it where it broke down even better.

DUB

If difference between a coated U-joint and one that is not coated is so evident....there is no mistaking which one is which one. The photo of the U-joint I posted is how it looks. The caps are NOT shiny steel. There is no shine on these caps...unlike the ones you installed.

I was told back in the day they were Teflon coated. It is not a paint applied to them.

If I need to I will post a photo of the correct U-joint with one that is like what you installed....it is day and night difference.....so others can see the difference.

DUB

9T3VETTE

Great video, i'm sure it will help someone in the future

This would have been great reference a few years ago when I did u-joints. It was my first time doing this type of work, but was rewarding when complete. I had also removed the batwing for a gear change and did all the bushings in the rear too

DUB

U-joint on LEFT is NOT COATED....the U-joint on the right is COATED.<br/><br/>You can CLEARLY see the difference in the way the caps look

The angle and light makes the top and bottom cap on the LEFT U-joint look darker...but...trust me...they are all shiny steel.

DUB

pianoguy

Very helpful video - thanks much for making it!

gjhinc

Well... lifting the arms did the trick. Video below. Done panic. I don't have the full weight of the car on the spindle support arm.





Video

VikingTrad3r

You do good work. thanks for sharing vid.
doh. just saw date.

flyboyslc1

Looks like you are working on a c3 generation there. I had a 65 convertible, and I recognize those beautiful chrome rear bumpers. Glad you found the video helpful anyway. steve

Well Vik, I am glad you replied back anyway. Brought back great memories of the old C4. Great cars that just dont get the respect they deserve. I did tonns of work on that car, lost all kinds of money doing it, but would do it all again under the same circumstances. steve

65Z01

And the coated unit looks to be a lot more "stout" as well.