1986 Trans Output Yoke Vibration Damper
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
1986 Trans Output Yoke Vibration Damper
I have a 86 automatic coupe. I am having vibration at 60mph and higher. The vibration almost felt like it was in transmission. I decided to replace the u-joints on the drive shaft. When I removed the drive shaft I noticed the front slip yoke has a vibration damper and it looks pretty bad. I took the drive shaft to have the u-joints installed and have the damper looked at. Well I found my vibration but; I need the vibration damper assembly.
Does anyone know the proper part description? I don't think I am calling it by its correct name. I am having trouble with the vocabulary. Its probably discontinued anyway!!!!
thanks
Does anyone know the proper part description? I don't think I am calling it by its correct name. I am having trouble with the vocabulary. Its probably discontinued anyway!!!!
thanks
#2
Team Owner
I have a 86 automatic coupe. I am having vibration at 60mph and higher. The vibration almost felt like it was in transmission. I decided to replace the u-joints on the drive shaft. When I removed the drive shaft I noticed the front slip yoke has a vibration damper and it looks pretty bad. I took the drive shaft to have the u-joints installed and have the damper looked at. Well I found my vibration but; I need the vibration damper assembly.
Does anyone know the proper part description? I don't think I am calling it by its correct name. I am having trouble with the vocabulary. Its probably discontinued anyway!!!!
thanks
Does anyone know the proper part description? I don't think I am calling it by its correct name. I am having trouble with the vocabulary. Its probably discontinued anyway!!!!
thanks
Do you mean that thing on the right side of the picture a little ways down from the yoke?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...yoke-ring.html
#3
Team Owner
Why not take the driveshaft off, have them replace the yoke so you get rid of the damper and have them balance it?
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-96-Corvet...pWaGN-&vxp=mtr
Do you mean that thing on the right side of the picture a little ways down from the yoke?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...yoke-ring.html
Do you mean that thing on the right side of the picture a little ways down from the yoke?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...yoke-ring.html
Yes, that ring is causing my vibration
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#6
Team Owner
#7
Team Owner
#8
Melting Slicks
Do a search some knock the ring off and are fine.
#9
Since it's out presently I'd think you either remove the dampener or replace the slip-yoke with new(less dampener). Regardless you do the u-joints and balance the assembly. Wear of the current slip-yoke I believe would influence the choice.
If it's never been done I believe it would be appropriate to do the bushing and seal in the A4 extension.
If it's never been done I believe it would be appropriate to do the bushing and seal in the A4 extension.
#11
There's no "service part" with the counter-bore and the dampener available.
This part has similar dimensions but doesn't have the counter-bore. I believe this or a competitors part of same dimensions is generally used.
Spicer 2-3-4911X
This or a competitor's part should be available "local". You need a balance so the drive-line shop that can do this would likely have this on the shelf or something similar enough that it could be cut to length.
This part has similar dimensions but doesn't have the counter-bore. I believe this or a competitors part of same dimensions is generally used.
Spicer 2-3-4911X
This or a competitor's part should be available "local". You need a balance so the drive-line shop that can do this would likely have this on the shelf or something similar enough that it could be cut to length.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 12-17-2015 at 07:37 AM.
#12
Melting Slicks
Like WVZR-1 says you can just use one w/o the damper. I did, but I had to cut the spline end down some, you may not depending on the yoke you get. You can cut it down with any saw, I used a die grinder. You have to chamfer and blend the cut end or it can damage your seal. Also deburr the splines I just used a wire wheel.
I didn't even have mine balanced because aluminum dampens decent. If it was a steel shaft or I planned to do sustained mph then I'd of gotten it balanced. Fun fact, when I asked about my CF shaft for my c3 they said they don't even bother with CF.
edit: Also I'd run it w/o and see if it's fine and if it's not to your liking then balance it. I ran a steel shaft that had a little vibe for a bit on one of my cars and later took it in to be balanced. Didn't put a ton of miles on it and I wasn't worried about replacing the u-joints that I just put on when I got the shaft form a junk yard
I didn't even have mine balanced because aluminum dampens decent. If it was a steel shaft or I planned to do sustained mph then I'd of gotten it balanced. Fun fact, when I asked about my CF shaft for my c3 they said they don't even bother with CF.
edit: Also I'd run it w/o and see if it's fine and if it's not to your liking then balance it. I ran a steel shaft that had a little vibe for a bit on one of my cars and later took it in to be balanced. Didn't put a ton of miles on it and I wasn't worried about replacing the u-joints that I just put on when I got the shaft form a junk yard
Last edited by BOOT77; 12-17-2015 at 04:50 PM.
#13
Team Owner
Like WVZR-1 says you can just use one w/o the damper. I did, but I had to cut the spline end down some, you may not depending on the yoke you get. You can cut it down with any saw, I used a die grinder. You have to chamfer and blend the cut end or it can damage your seal. Also deburr the splines I just used a wire wheel.
I didn't even have mine balanced because aluminum dampens decent. If it was a steel shaft or I planned to do sustained mph then I'd of gotten it balanced. Fun fact, when I asked about my CF shaft for my c3 they said they don't even bother with CF.
edit: Also I'd run it w/o and see if it's fine and if it's not to your liking then balance it. I ran a steel shaft that had a little vibe for a bit on one of my cars and later took it in to be balanced. Didn't put a ton of miles on it and I wasn't worried about replacing the u-joints that I just put on when I got the shaft form a junk yard
I didn't even have mine balanced because aluminum dampens decent. If it was a steel shaft or I planned to do sustained mph then I'd of gotten it balanced. Fun fact, when I asked about my CF shaft for my c3 they said they don't even bother with CF.
edit: Also I'd run it w/o and see if it's fine and if it's not to your liking then balance it. I ran a steel shaft that had a little vibe for a bit on one of my cars and later took it in to be balanced. Didn't put a ton of miles on it and I wasn't worried about replacing the u-joints that I just put on when I got the shaft form a junk yard
I don't know if aluminum dampens decent or not. Regardless, that is like saying "just because you can makes it a good idea". Why risk a wobble when you can spend a few bucks to check it? Why be penny wise and pound foolish?
How do you see if it is fine or not? Who do you think you are? The princess who can feel the pea under several mattresses? By the time you feel it, it might really be very far out. You skip the balance on tires and see if it is OK too?
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Since it's out presently I'd think you either remove the dampener or replace the slip-yoke with new(less dampener). Regardless you do the u-joints and balance the assembly. Wear of the current slip-yoke I believe would influence the choice.
If it's never been done I believe it would be appropriate to do the bushing and seal in the A4 extension.
If it's never been done I believe it would be appropriate to do the bushing and seal in the A4 extension.
#15
Melting Slicks
Older cars are more prone to mild drivetrain vibe, some just at a certain mph. The c4 has a nice fixed driveline angle and I haven't measured it but even the C3 is constantly noted for being off. I have noticed the diff when switching from a oem steel to an oem alum shaft. Tires should always be balanced, but I fail to see how my opinion of a driveshaft implies my opinion of tires.
It cost nothing but time to take the car for a drive and see how it feels. The last shaft I had balanced local was $80 and if it's much cheaper then by all means have it done. But if $80 is nothing to you then maybe you can pick up the tab for all of us?
I'm flattered by all the attention, but this will be the last of me taking time to explain things to you. My comments are meant for the OP to take or leave.
It cost nothing but time to take the car for a drive and see how it feels. The last shaft I had balanced local was $80 and if it's much cheaper then by all means have it done. But if $80 is nothing to you then maybe you can pick up the tab for all of us?
I'm flattered by all the attention, but this will be the last of me taking time to explain things to you. My comments are meant for the OP to take or leave.
Last edited by BOOT77; 12-17-2015 at 10:43 PM.
#16
Team Owner
#17
Melting Slicks
#19
Team Owner
Tires should always be balanced, but I fail to see how my opinion of a driveshaft implies my opinion of tires.
It cost nothing but time to take the car for a drive and see how it feels.
The last shaft I had balanced local was $80 and if it's much cheaper then by all means have it done. But if $80 is nothing to you then maybe you can pick up the tab for all of us.
I'm flattered by all the attention, but this will be the last of me taking time to explain things to you.
My comments are meant for the OP to take or leave.
It cost nothing but time to take the car for a drive and see how it feels.
The last shaft I had balanced local was $80 and if it's much cheaper then by all means have it done. But if $80 is nothing to you then maybe you can pick up the tab for all of us.
I'm flattered by all the attention, but this will be the last of me taking time to explain things to you.
My comments are meant for the OP to take or leave.
Absolutely. It costs nothing for a reason. A little bit out of balance you will not be able to feel. I don't believe in going by feel. There is so much you can feel and way more the machine can detect. When your sensitivity as as good as a machine, call me.
It costs me very little to test the balance. Only if they have to fix it would the $80-100 tab come into place.
For a balanced driveshaft, $80 is NOT a high price to pay. But maybe you are right. Can we send you driveshafts to balance by feel? Obviously the cost has to be way less and the quality has to be as good as the machine balance.
Don't be flattered. I make comments on comments I disagree with whether they are your's or anyone else's. So far, your "explanations" have been little more than supposition, wild guesses, etc, without any real verification so I doubt I will miss it.
As are my comments on your comments. What of it?
Last edited by aklim; 12-17-2015 at 11:37 PM.
#20
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
had the exact same (symptoms and problem) with an 89
let the driveshaft co deal with it they found a dampner balanced it etc etc never had a problem again even with drag racing the car etc etc.
Bonding was coming off glad it was caught in time.
no it didnt stop the clunk either
let the driveshaft co deal with it they found a dampner balanced it etc etc never had a problem again even with drag racing the car etc etc.
Bonding was coming off glad it was caught in time.
no it didnt stop the clunk either
Last edited by cv67; 12-18-2015 at 12:28 AM.