dt#2

Hello all,
I know this topic has been covered a few times as I have read in some of the other posts but I need a little advice on what would be the best choice of a trailer for a C4. This probably applies to any generation but I did the traditional lowering front and back, and put the Z51 front spoiler on it as well which reduced the front ground cleareance even more. That being said, I am trying to see what would be a good trailer. Dovetail, or a tilt bed. Back when I kept having transmission problems, I had to trailer the car to the shop and used one of my friend’s dovetail and removed the spoiler to make sure I cleared the front. It did of course, but I thought how cumbersome that is every time I would want to trailer it somewhere. Also I was told by one of the trailer dealers in Georgia that a tilt would not work for a vette. I don’t believe him though because other low profile cars I researched seem to go on one with no issues. I could do either but was really leaning towards the tilt for ease of use and not have to deal with ramps. What are your thoughts on this ?

0Fred@ReverseLogic

You can use the Reverse Logic trailer ramp calculator to estimate the car-to-ramp clearance for a particular trailer. The first entry in the calculator is for a trailer without Race Ramps. To estimate the clearance with a tilt trailer you would need to know the deck height of the trailer 132" from the rear edge of the trailer when the deck is tilted. The reason for the 132" is that is the longest ramp length that the calculator is set up to accommodate.

You can access the trailer ramp calculator by clicking on the link or graph in my signature below.

dt#2

Okay. I am going to look at the calculator and see how it measures out.

Churchkey

I have a 18' beaver tail on leaf springs, 15" wheels & 7' ramps. The end of the trailer is about 12" off of the ground when the trailer is level. Vette has the Z51 package @ stock height & loads without issue.

Jacking up the trailer tongue will decrease the ramp angle when loading. Extremely low cars get 2X10X8 ramp extensions placed mid way on the trailer ramps to extend them.

Good luck.

BOOT77

Others already talked about ramps, but you can also bolt on some 2x10 wood runners to make a low car clear the center of some trailers better.

dt#2

Thanks Church Key. Did not know that but does this apply also to a tilt?

dt#2

Are they placed on the trailer at just in front of the dovetail portion? not sure I understand where toput them. thanks for the help though

Daniel_Mc

I've used the Sloan Kwik load since 02 with the vettes and other cars with no issues. 3 out of 4 of the C4's are lowered a good bit. The spoiler does scrape just a little but nothing to do any physical or cosmetic damage. Our particular model is the 20ft. They come in aluminum also. The 20ft still allows plenty of room under the fearing for spare tires and a larger tool box or two. The trailer is super easy to use even loading with one person (usually how I have to do it) and pulls great. We pull with a 99 4x4 burb with the vortec 350.

-Daniel

EDIT: I forgot the link....
http://www.kwikload.com

dt#2

thanks Daniel... and all who have given some advice. All is very much appreciated too. I know how you feel when that front scrapes going up an incline. Thank goodness it is flexible and gives just enough. I measured the front anyway just so I had a idea how low and what kind of extenders or race ramps to order. My front clearance is 3 inches in the middle and just slightly more on the sides. I am going to contact reverse logic and see what ramps would be good all the way around since I don't have any at all. Good for just doing an oil change or minor work instead of jacking and sliding jack stands under there.

Beach Bum

I went through this recently with my C6 Z06. My solution was to order a custom made Maxxhd Chariot series trailer. You can request the floor raised as an option, hence you do not have to remove the fenders to get in and out of your vette. I also ordered the 84" by 25" wide Solid Ramps, hence, reducing the angle to nothing. I can drive right up without scraping or touching anything. No different than driving it into the garage. They're a little heavier due to this, but they're fine.

It has a 4' dovetail and the side step and also adjustable coupler so I can easily adjust the angle of the trailer. The Fender height above the floor is only 8" hence the door can open, but you have to special order this. Also have the anti-skid on the deck and ramps, which can help if you're loading up in rain.

Had to wait a month or two for it to be delivered, but well worth the wait, I have no hassles with my vette and trailer. I race most weekends, hence it was important to me to make it easy.

Hope this helps.

rklessdriver

I started having problems with getting my race car on my old trailer after I put new headers and 3.5" exhaust under it last year. It was a typical 18ft with the 2ft beaver tail and 3ft ramps. I had to jack the front of the trailer up or use ramps under the rear tires of the truck.... tore the exhaust off the car and bent the spoiler up numerous times.... My 92 wouldn't go on it either with out having to jack it up....



Halfway through last season I got fed up, broke down and bought a new Quality Trailer Diamond Deck car hauler. 18ft with a 4ft beavertail and 5ft ramps. Car goes on with plenty of room to spare now. Great trailer for $2500.00





Will

383vett

I have been using this Featherlite for 15 years and with it's 6' ramps, have no problem with clearance. What's best is that it's kept outside, has no rust and I can sell it for more than I bought it for originally!

dt#2

That is a nice trailer 383. So I am finding out that a good aluminum one is gonna cost some $$$ more so than steel.

dt#2

All good info and feedback. I want a aluminum one for the lighter weight and I guess it does not matter if it is a tilt or not since you guys have all validated that already. thanks again.

383vett

Thanks. aluminum trailers do cost more initially, but they can last a long time and are lighter. Mine weighs 1450#. When you figure out resale value, it makes it an easy decision if you can bite the initial cost.

1991Z07

Airbagged trailers...



Around $12k US...not for the budget minded.

On the flip side, for those who can do it yourself...there is a company that sells the bagged components for about $800/axle...



http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Susp...A35RD545E.html

I've been contemplating this for a lot of reasons...my trailer has an open center running the length of it. It's pretty easy to get under there and work on a car when at the track, and this would get the axle tubes out of the way. I'm guessing by the time it's all done it'll be about $2500 to convert my trailer.