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here are pics of the $130 cracker jack surprise. its a model 6mkm
still trying to figure what behicles that came in and if i stuck my corvette governor and servo in it how would it shift? do the internals matter that much? i would want to save a few hundred then have a vette that shifts like a suburban.
not to mention the 3hrs of cleaning and 50$ worth of cleaning supplies id go theough before considering installing this in the z51.
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r
i agree. in the meantime i have a local 700r4 available for $100. he says it ran fine and took it out because he is doing an ls swap.
the pan rail number is:
6mkm
above the panrail on the horizontal part there are the numbers:
cgf799950
problem is has no torque converter. there is a local set of 2 torque converters that a guy will sell me for 30$
so, technically i could buy this one, cut the shaft 5/8", swap the tailshaft, stick a cracker jack prize inside ! torque converter on it and see what happens.
or pay the $500 and have a vette trans and have the same chance of it working.
383, i have been trying to understand the hydraulics behind the tcc lockup. my understanding is that there are 5 components that cause the tcc to lockup.
i) ecm sends signal based on its inputs, to the tcc solenoid.
ii) tcc solenoid opens and allows some pressure to go somewhere (dont know details of that yet)
iii) there is a valve that has something to do with the lockup now. im guessing the tcc solenoid allows pressure to build up on the tcc lockup valve,
iv) then ofcourse there is the tcc itself in the trans.
it seems to me like the only thing that could make the tcc lockup EARLY is if the ecm signal is sending the signal too early. when i unplugged the tcc harness at the trans, the tcc never locked up.
my understanding of these trannies is evolving every week as i learn more.
Originally Posted by 383vett
Too late now, but it would have been nice to have cut one of the wires going into the transmission connector that commands tcc. When my car was on the road, I hooked up a manual switch on the console to this wire and I had complete control over the lockup of the converter by connecting it to ground (in fact I still use it to lock up the converter at the drags). This way you would be able to determine if you problem was the wire going into the tranny being grounded or something hydraulic within the tranny.
383, i have been trying to understand the hydraulics behind the tcc lockup. my understanding is that there are 5 components that cause the tcc to lockup.
i) ecm sends signal based on its inputs, to the tcc solenoid.
ii) tcc solenoid opens and allows some pressure to go somewhere (dont know details of that yet)
iii) there is a valve that has something to do with the lockup now. im guessing the tcc solenoid allows pressure to build up on the tcc lockup valve,
iv) then ofcourse there is the tcc itself in the trans.
it seems to me like the only thing that could make the tcc lockup EARLY is if the ecm signal is sending the signal too early. when i unplugged the tcc harness at the trans, the tcc never locked up.
my understanding of these trannies is evolving every week as i learn more.
You are close in your understanding of how a lockup torque converter works. Basically the tcc solenoid keeps fluid pressure between the backing plate and the converter clutch keeping these two apart. When the TCI solenoid circuit is grounded (simple 12 volt solenoid), it opens and allows hydraulic fluid to escape through the hole in the input shaft. Without the fluid separating the clutch from the backing plate, the two come into contact and the converter "locks up".
ok i found the file showing the details for the 700r4. if you are looking to see what your tranny was from, and what its wiring type is, click this link, then use the search within the doc to put your first few digits in. here it is:https://www.scribd.com/doc/132925609/700-HB
i found that all 85's come with 700r4 wiring type 9.
i found that the 6ydm 86 trans i have found comes with wiring type 9. (there was a version of the 86 700r4 that came with wiring type 6. not sure what the difference is)
i found that the 130$ cracker jack surprise 6mkm came from a truck/van and has wiring type 1.
so i am guessing the 6mkm aint going to work as a plug and play becauase the wiring type is off.
i want plug and play. i think im going with the vette trans.
unless you guys have some suggestions on how that 86 trans, the 6mkm, can be made to work easy enough.
383, i think i read another post from you that you have gone through many transmissions (not surprised based on your avatar pic) and that many of them were non vette versions that you swapped tailshaft housings and hacked off the 5/8th inch? was that right?
do you know what the significance of wiring type 9 vw wiring type 1 is?
383, i think i read another post from you that you have gone through many transmissions (not surprised based on your avatar pic) and that many of them were non vette versions that you swapped tailshaft housings and hacked off the 5/8th inch? was that right?
do you know what the significance of wiring type 9 vw wiring type 1 is?
I have gone through a lifetime share of transmissions. My current 4l60e is a full body 95 something with the tailshaft cut. One of my trannies was a converted pwm transmission to a non pwm transmission using a different wiring harness and some mods. That did not go well. Make sure you find a tranny similar to yours. It does not necessarily have to be a Vette, but you don't want to mess with too many things.
ok i found the file showing the details for the 700r4. if you are looking to see what your tranny was from, and what its wiring type is, click this link, then use the search within the doc to put your first few digits in. here it is:https://www.scribd.com/doc/132925609/700-HB
i found that all 85's come with 700r4 wiring type 9.
i found that the 6ydm 86 trans i have found comes with wiring type 9. (there was a version of the 86 700r4 that came with wiring type 6. not sure what the difference is)
i found that the 130$ cracker jack surprise 6mkm came from a truck/van and has wiring type 1.
so i am guessing the 6mkm aint going to work as a plug and play becauase the wiring type is off.
i want plug and play. i think im going with the vette trans.
unless you guys have some suggestions on how that 86 trans, the 6mkm, can be made to work easy enough.
383, i think i read another post from you that you have gone through many transmissions (not surprised based on your avatar pic) and that many of them were non vette versions that you swapped tailshaft housings and hacked off the 5/8th inch? was that right?
do you know what the significance of wiring type 9 vw wiring type 1 is?
picked up the tranny today. ended up getting it for 285$
took the fam to west edmonton mall for the day. good times, my girls enjoyed the day.
well, thought id update on how the tranny swap is going. fluid was dark cherry in replacement trans, but not burnt. i learned that the truck trans had a different dipstick and tube from the vette trans.
THEN I remembered that i should flush the cooler lines. pulled two tabledpoons of metal from the cooler lines. this trans in this car was sssoooooo messed up.
for sure. we actually had to run compressed air with trans fluid through the system for 3 hours. it was messy. then we realized we should have just unscrewed the lines from the rad, and blew out each line individually and the blew out the cooler in the rad.
we kept going until we had no more metal at all. clean now.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 05-22-2016 at 10:10 PM.
allllright. everything except the exhaust is bolted up and ready for start tomorrow. i figure ill start it and take it through the gears to see if there is t any weird immediately apparent issues with my 350$ 86, 30 spline, 700r4 trans with supposedly 26k miles ....
too late here to start it but looking fd to tomorrow nights maiden voyage. jesus this car has taken alot out of me!!!!!
started the car, no noises from the trans, took a while for it to fill itself up, i filled enough to see on the hash marks then put it through the gears and it would suck in some more fluid. filled it up some more. its stabilized in the hash marks now.
the car is idling way better in open loop. is it possible that the friction from the torque converter was putting a drag on the engine which was not allowing it to maintain a steady idle? its holding an idle of 650-653 now. this car used to be allll over the place by a hundred rpm or so.
started the car, no noises from the trans, took a while for it to fill itself up, i filled enough to see on the hash marks then put it through the gears and it would suck in some more fluid. filled it up some more. its stabilized in the hash marks now.
the car is idling way better in open loop. is it possible that the friction from the torque converter was putting a drag on the engine which was not allowing it to maintain a steady idle? its holding an idle of 650-653 now. this car used to be allll over the place by a hundred rpm or so.
05-05-2016, 11:59 PM
