Front wheel studs
01-22-2017, 04:26 PM
#21
Melting Slicks
To the OP.
I replaced my lug studs with longer ARP ones both front and rear with the following method:
1.) put a lug nut on the stud you want to remove then screw it on halfway.
2.) Rotate the hub so there is space behind the lug stud.
3.)get a piece of thick walled pipe that the back part of the lug stud can fit inside of and cut a 3/4in long piece off of it.
4.) get a big strong C-Clamp, put the piece of pipe over the back side of the lug stud, and tighten the C-clamp so it has the fixed jaw against the pipe and the other side against the stud (with the lug nut on partway).
5.) now tighten the C-Clamp until the lug stud comes out of the hub, it doesn't have to move far before it comes loose.
6.) take the C-clamp off and remove the stud.
To reinstall:
put the stud in the hub then put the lug nut on with a few washers between it and the hub, now tighen down the lug nut with a breaker bar and It will be drawn into the hub until It is fully seated.
This method will work for front and rear hubs while they are on the car.
I replaced my lug studs with longer ARP ones both front and rear with the following method:
1.) put a lug nut on the stud you want to remove then screw it on halfway.
2.) Rotate the hub so there is space behind the lug stud.
3.)get a piece of thick walled pipe that the back part of the lug stud can fit inside of and cut a 3/4in long piece off of it.
4.) get a big strong C-Clamp, put the piece of pipe over the back side of the lug stud, and tighten the C-clamp so it has the fixed jaw against the pipe and the other side against the stud (with the lug nut on partway).
5.) now tighten the C-Clamp until the lug stud comes out of the hub, it doesn't have to move far before it comes loose.
6.) take the C-clamp off and remove the stud.
To reinstall:
put the stud in the hub then put the lug nut on with a few washers between it and the hub, now tighen down the lug nut with a breaker bar and It will be drawn into the hub until It is fully seated.
This method will work for front and rear hubs while they are on the car.
Last edited by DMITTZ; 01-22-2017 at 04:29 PM.
01-22-2017, 05:14 PM
#22
Drifting
To the OP.
I replaced my lug studs with longer ARP ones both front and rear with the following method:
1.) put a lug nut on the stud you want to remove then screw it on halfway.
2.) Rotate the hub so there is space behind the lug stud.
3.)get a piece of thick walled pipe that the back part of the lug stud can fit inside of and cut a 3/4in long piece off of it.
4.) get a big strong C-Clamp, put the piece of pipe over the back side of the lug stud, and tighten the C-clamp so it has the fixed jaw against the pipe and the other side against the stud (with the lug nut on partway).
5.) now tighten the C-Clamp until the lug stud comes out of the hub, it doesn't have to move far before it comes loose.
6.) take the C-clamp off and remove the stud.
To reinstall:
put the stud in the hub then put the lug nut on with a few washers between it and the hub, now tighen down the lug nut with a breaker bar and It will be drawn into the hub until It is fully seated.
This method will work for front and rear hubs while they are on the car.
I replaced my lug studs with longer ARP ones both front and rear with the following method:
1.) put a lug nut on the stud you want to remove then screw it on halfway.
2.) Rotate the hub so there is space behind the lug stud.
3.)get a piece of thick walled pipe that the back part of the lug stud can fit inside of and cut a 3/4in long piece off of it.
4.) get a big strong C-Clamp, put the piece of pipe over the back side of the lug stud, and tighten the C-clamp so it has the fixed jaw against the pipe and the other side against the stud (with the lug nut on partway).
5.) now tighten the C-Clamp until the lug stud comes out of the hub, it doesn't have to move far before it comes loose.
6.) take the C-clamp off and remove the stud.
To reinstall:
put the stud in the hub then put the lug nut on with a few washers between it and the hub, now tighen down the lug nut with a breaker bar and It will be drawn into the hub until It is fully seated.
This method will work for front and rear hubs while they are on the car.
01-26-2017, 09:03 AM
#23
Safety Car
Couple of add-ons to the C-Clamp method. You can use a socket on the back side if you have room when breaking the old lug loose from the hub. If the C-Clamp wobbles while trying to remove the old stud, cut off the adjustable/wobble tip off the screw (leaving the ball) and use the ball in the depression in the end of the stud. Most of the replacement studs and oem studs in the hubs I've seen have a depression in the end of the lug and the ball fits in there well.
When inserting the new stud, there are cuts in the hub that match those ridges on the stud. Rotate the new one till you feel the ridges on the new one engage the slots in the hole from the old one. Makes it easier to get it in straight and you don't mess up the hub hole trying to cut new slots while pulling it in. You can also use the reverse method to pull the new stud most of the way in - long socket over the thread end and use the c-clamp to pull the stud in most of the way. Then use the lug nut and breaker bar to finish it off.
I also have a piece of flat steel drilled for 2 of the lug bolt holes that's long enough to go to the floor. Screw it onto the hub first before trying to pull the new stud in and it will keep the hub from turning. You can do the same thing if you put the wheel on and lower the car to the ground but this lets you see better while doing it.
When inserting the new stud, there are cuts in the hub that match those ridges on the stud. Rotate the new one till you feel the ridges on the new one engage the slots in the hole from the old one. Makes it easier to get it in straight and you don't mess up the hub hole trying to cut new slots while pulling it in. You can also use the reverse method to pull the new stud most of the way in - long socket over the thread end and use the c-clamp to pull the stud in most of the way. Then use the lug nut and breaker bar to finish it off.
I also have a piece of flat steel drilled for 2 of the lug bolt holes that's long enough to go to the floor. Screw it onto the hub first before trying to pull the new stud in and it will keep the hub from turning. You can do the same thing if you put the wheel on and lower the car to the ground but this lets you see better while doing it.
Last edited by hcbph; 01-26-2017 at 09:05 AM.