Front wheel studs
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Beating on wheel studs for removal from an assembled hub/bearing assembly I'd think certainly frowned upon by "nearly all".
It's actually maybe "easier" to do it correctly using a stud removing tool that is likely a "loaner tool" from a local AP store. At the AP store it's likely called tie rod puller but most are generally dual purpose.
If your present studs are OE/GM I don't know that there's much to be gained spending the additional money.
Why the need for the 1 1/4" - what wheels are you considering?
Last edited by WVZR-1; Jan 19, 2017 at 07:01 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
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I've been running American Racing wheels for several years so they obviously fit but they're in the wheel well pretty far (they rub at full lock). I autoX the car so I think bringing the track back out to what it should be would help with understeer. I really only want an inch but my stock studs are 1.1" .
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
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I've been running American Racing wheels for several years so they obviously fit but they're in the wheel well pretty far (they rub at full lock). I autoX the car so I think bringing the track back out to what it should be would help with understeer. I really only want an inch but my stock studs are 1.1" .
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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Team Owner
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Drill with maybe 1/4, then 7/16 and finally 1/2 or 9/16
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
SPRO, do your ARE wheels align to the center boss on your hubs? If you install spacers, this alignment may be lost, as the wheels would align to the studs rather than the center boss, resulting in eccentric mounting and annoying vibration from the poor wheel centering. Some wheel spacers have the correct center boss to maintain this accuracy, but most don't.
Removing your existing studs by the bigger-hammer technique may warp your hubs. I agree with WVZR-1 on that! You are talking about pretty thick spacers, so the best would be spacers that are bolted to your hubs and don't need longer studs, and also provide the hub-centric mounting, like those in this video:
youtube.com/watch?v=uagmGqeomng
Removing your existing studs by the bigger-hammer technique may warp your hubs. I agree with WVZR-1 on that! You are talking about pretty thick spacers, so the best would be spacers that are bolted to your hubs and don't need longer studs, and also provide the hub-centric mounting, like those in this video:
youtube.com/watch?v=uagmGqeomng
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
SPRO, do your ARE wheels align to the center boss on your hubs? If you install spacers, this alignment may be lost, as the wheels would align to the studs rather than the center boss, resulting in eccentric mounting and annoying vibration from the poor wheel centering. Some wheel spacers have the correct center boss to maintain this accuracy, but most don't.
Removing your existing studs by the bigger-hammer technique may warp your hubs. I agree with WVZR-1 on that! You are talking about pretty thick spacers, so the best would be spacers that are bolted to your hubs and don't need longer studs, and also provide the hub-centric mounting, like those in this video:
Removing your existing studs by the bigger-hammer technique may warp your hubs. I agree with WVZR-1 on that! You are talking about pretty thick spacers, so the best would be spacers that are bolted to your hubs and don't need longer studs, and also provide the hub-centric mounting, like those in this video:
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Yep I understand that the spacer's need to be hub centric. I wasn't thinking about getting longer studs but contemplating stronger. I run Nitto NT01 tires that are pretty grippy 😀 so I'm concerned about loosing a wheel if the factory styds aren't strong.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,236
Likes: 286
I'd run hub centric spacers (or adaptors with the studs knocked out)with long studs because you'll only have 20 lug nuts to worry about,its less complicated & less weight. I wouldn't worry about tapping out those studs either, GM parts are pretty durable. A couple of blows with a light hammer & they come right out.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
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From: Mission Viejo CA
Racer
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 320
Likes: 23
This would worry me. The studs are the main element to transfer the braking torque (since we're talking about front wheels) from the wheels to the hubs and the brake rotors. The long studs would have this torque applied about 1.5" above the surface of the hub, putting a very significant bending force on the studs. Yes, some of the torque would be transmitted thru the friction mounting surfaces of the wheel-to-adapter-to-rotor, but I'm guessing there would still be a significant bending force on the studs.
I agree, I put .7500 inch spacers on my rear and was going to go with longer studs but felt it would be better to use the spacer as intended plus the excess stud that stuck out didn't bottom out in the oem c6 wheel cavity so I didn't have to grind/cut the studs.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,236
Likes: 286
This would worry me. The studs are the main element to transfer the braking torque (since we're talking about front wheels) from the wheels to the hubs and the brake rotors. The long studs would have this torque applied about 1.5" above the surface of the hub, putting a very significant bending force on the studs. Yes, some of the torque would be transmitted thru the friction mounting surfaces of the wheel-to-adapter-to-rotor, but I'm guessing there would still be a significant bending force on the studs.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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And the M12 bolts weren't used after '84 either! '85+ caliper bracket bolts are M14 - I'll leave you to contemplate the why!! The OP I doubt needs the ARP 8740 studs but feels he should so .... It's his choice
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
For the record I have ARP studs on my car with Eibach Hub centric spacers. I've had yet to have an issue or die. The stock ones tap out with a hammer really easy. You don't need a specil tool. For install I HIGHLY recommend a stud installer. The studs are a friction fit and the factory ones have little tiny splines that gouge into the hub. The ARP ones have MASSIVE splines on the stud, MUCH harder to get into the hub.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
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From: Mission Viejo CA
Keep talking. I'm not convinced yet.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 81
From: Hamilton Virginia
Imo, you do not need longer studs, as long as you buy adapters that bolt on to your original studs, then they have studs of their own. having adapters with hubcentrics are a plus. The factory studs are plenty strong to handle the added adapter. Now if you still want the added stength in the arp studs, the hubs are plenty strong enough to pop out the old studs. You can pull in the new studs by hand, but if you do not start them perfectly straight and the start binding, you could have a harder time. Best to use a puller.
Imo, alot of wrenchers on here are full of knowledge not only what they have read but what they have experienced, hard to decide which way to go. I usually go by who has done it. I have never used adapters so I cant help you there, but I have replaced studs and I have knocked them out without any negative outcome, and I have installed them without any negative outcome. I am hard headed and a backyard mechanic, I just do things by hand if I can before I start buying or renting extra tools. Good luck.
Imo, alot of wrenchers on here are full of knowledge not only what they have read but what they have experienced, hard to decide which way to go. I usually go by who has done it. I have never used adapters so I cant help you there, but I have replaced studs and I have knocked them out without any negative outcome, and I have installed them without any negative outcome. I am hard headed and a backyard mechanic, I just do things by hand if I can before I start buying or renting extra tools. Good luck.