ajrothm

Damn thats a tall 1st gear... Gonna have hell launching that at the track on 28s... Time to get that 2 step going...

Turbo-Geist

We'll see. Guys with power glides do it all the time with a 1.76 1st gear ratio. Last time at the track, it made 15psi by 13mph. This controller can also apply CO2 pressure during the launch to shut the gate. A tall gear is only going to load it more.

inspector12

True but they are using a converter and they do all the slipping for the driver. So I think your just going to have to practice a bit to find your launch down.

stevieturbo

They are strange ratios, although probably ok if you have a short diff.

neverstop

I raced a zr1 with ~40whp less whp and tq as my car, and he had a passenger so weight should have been about the same, and I had a z06 gearbox and at the 1/2 mile he pulled about 1.5-2 cars on me, only real difference was he had the zr1 gearbox. if i ever have to pull the transmission on this car again I'll be going with zr1 gears for sure, but maybe with z06 1st/2nd or something for easier street driving

o1Z0sick

The 2.29 first is awesome. He has a compliant clutch with a sprung disc. Currently mine are not but they are organic. If it was sintered and not sprung then it would be really annoying. Had a big cam too and we don't have guibos. It all depends on the setup.

The MH3 spread is amazing just like the ME2 except that has overdrive which would have been nice highway cruising with a Tial BOV. Ridiculous street sweeper cruising at anything over 70 mph.

Turbo-Geist

Looking forward to trying the new ratios out. I wouldn't mind having the 0.81 5th gear but I didn't want to deal with the 500 to 600 rpm higher cruise ratio with the 0.68 6th gear. Also, the MH3 was an additional $1k.

JDS99

I still don't understand why they wanted so much more for mh3. 1-4 are almost identical to me2, and 5/6 gears can be easily swapped for well under the $1k difference if one wants the .81/.68 overdrives.. looking forward to seeing how it does.

Turbo-Geist

Still working as time allows...

Two weekends ago, driveline was pulled:



Converted the other side of the meth injection pump to an AN fitting and will run -6AN braided hose from the tank to the pump:



It appears that all of the pre-made hoses use a zinc plated steel for the crimped connection. It doesn't seem to play well with pure methanol.

Turbo-Geist

This weekend, things got a little more involved. The downpipe was going to need to be removed because the wrap got soaked in brake fluid. One thing that I have constantly wished for with this build is the ability to control boost. If one downpipe was coming off, now would be the time to go all in.


A pair of Turbosmart HyperGate45 WGs showed up on Friday



I went ahead and tack welded the inlet flange to a 1-1/2 SCH 10 elbow and checked initial fitment.




It felt great to go ahead and cut the pipe off that had the bellows joint on it. No turning back now.

Turbo-Geist

I think I can unbolt the driver's side turbo from the exhaust manifold and drop it out the bottom of the car. I'm not sure with these 62/65s. I've always pulled and installed the engine with everything attached. The passenger side turbo and exhaust manifold can be removed as a complete assembly.

The brake tubing running from the ABS module to the left rear brake was removed this weekend also. There was a hole in the line where it was touching the WG piping. My 1st option will be to make a splice using a double flare union vs bending a completely new line.

Another lesson learned: the rubber hose that attaches the turbo drains to the oil pan fittings is already degrading. I guess it wasn't rated for 260 deg oil temps. It hadn't started leaking yet, but I'm sure it was just a matter of time.

Smoove

progress progress.

Teflon might be your best choice if stuff is coming apart or cooking(oil drain lines). Slightly more expensive but, you can always get them premade as well from someone like Fragola straight from the factory. Not really THAT expensive.

schpenxel

You can get -4 brass fitting/teflon hose from Alky Control in any length also. Not sure if they have -6 but they may. They are pretty cheap

StealthFRC

You should be able to unbolt the driver side turbo from the manifold. Some of the nuts are **** to get to but it does work. It defiantly can not be dropped as a assembly like the passenger side.

Turbo-Geist

These are actually braided PTFE hoses from Fragola. I called them up and told them what I was experiencing and they verified it is a zinc coated steel crimp and insert. They said maybe it was just an issue with the coating and I could send it back to them and they would replace it. I just don't see a zinc coated carbon steel lasting. He asked if the meth had any water in it. Since the tank being vented, it will take on some water over time.

Yeah, now I'm beginning to see why these vendors either use brass or the push to connect fittings. Have you ever priced out a SS -6AN hose end? $$$ The anodized aluminum seems to be holding up better than the zinc-plated steel.

Thanks. That's what I'm hoping. When I installed the kit on the stock engine years ago, I had to drop the manifold in and then attach the turbo from the bottom. Now, I'm hoping this method will work. There is just one nut that is hard to reach. It is right against the CHRA. I think using a 9/16" stubby wrench may work or a 1/4" drive, 9/16" socket. I just hope the nut backs out instead of the stud. There may not be enough room for the stud to unthread, we'll see. I really should have taken care of this when the engine was out last time.

stevieturbo

If the hose you have is fine, and long enough, just buy some aluminium fittings and cut the steel one off.

There can be variations in fitting manufacturers, but given it is nowhere near the max working pressure of the hose/fitting, even a slight variance wont pose any problem.

Smoove

Dang. Brint is awesome, he'll take care of you if any problems for sure.

5 Liter Eater

On my old TTI kit it was possible to drop the drivers side turbo out the bottom after lowering the cradle a scosh.


I had my power steering pulley rub through the brake line where it comes out of the ABS and used a swageloc coupler to fix it. Been working great since. Those things are rated at crazy pressures.

Turbo-Geist

Your post gave me hope.

Turbo-Geist

I only got a few hours this weekend to do some wrenching, but it went well.

The driver side turbo was able to be pulled once all studs were out of the T3 flange.



I then went to work on getting the elbow saddled and fit to the turbine housing.