900+ whp what is the best suspension mods
#1
900+ whp what is the best suspension mods
I have TT C5Z06 the car put down 1000 whp 930 tq and it has ZR1 T6060 conversion
And QA1 shocks with Weld wheels and M&H 325/45/17 tires
The problem i cant hook from 60 roll in 2nd gear so i keep the boost in the range of 8 psi
I need advice from the hogh hp people what is the best mods for roll racing i whant to decrase spining and fish tailing from 60 roll and not intrested in drag racing
Will the aftermarket sway bars help in this ?
Thanks in advance
And QA1 shocks with Weld wheels and M&H 325/45/17 tires
The problem i cant hook from 60 roll in 2nd gear so i keep the boost in the range of 8 psi
I need advice from the hogh hp people what is the best mods for roll racing i whant to decrase spining and fish tailing from 60 roll and not intrested in drag racing
Will the aftermarket sway bars help in this ?
Thanks in advance
#3
#4
Drifting
also ditch the QA1s and get Viking Crusader coil overs.
Yes, the ZR1 bar is significantly stiffer than the Z06 bar.
No real cons to going 15" other than the cost of the spindles.
Yes, the ZR1 bar is significantly stiffer than the Z06 bar.
No real cons to going 15" other than the cost of the spindles.
#6
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
You are getting to the point of having a hard time on a 17" wheel making that kind of power on anything DOT tire related.
I would check the alignment first....nothing in the world is going to help if the tires are not pointed in the right direction.
ZR1 rear bar or our adjustable G1 rear bar would be a good idea to look at, but mostly this is going to help the car leave straight, not really help get the power down.
Coil overs are one way to go and we have a number of different options from custom built units in our G2 line which I have a number of roll race guys on with great success. We have our GT2 adjustable units which are an option to go with as well.
At some point as the car gets quicker and you add more power to it, yes you are going to have to do a 15" conversion kit so you can get a real tire on the back that will take the power and put it down.
Hit me up if you have any questions, more than happy to help.
I would check the alignment first....nothing in the world is going to help if the tires are not pointed in the right direction.
ZR1 rear bar or our adjustable G1 rear bar would be a good idea to look at, but mostly this is going to help the car leave straight, not really help get the power down.
Coil overs are one way to go and we have a number of different options from custom built units in our G2 line which I have a number of roll race guys on with great success. We have our GT2 adjustable units which are an option to go with as well.
At some point as the car gets quicker and you add more power to it, yes you are going to have to do a 15" conversion kit so you can get a real tire on the back that will take the power and put it down.
Hit me up if you have any questions, more than happy to help.
#7
You are getting to the point of having a hard time on a 17" wheel making that kind of power on anything DOT tire related.
I would check the alignment first....nothing in the world is going to help if the tires are not pointed in the right direction.
ZR1 rear bar or our adjustable G1 rear bar would be a good idea to look at, but mostly this is going to help the car leave straight, not really help get the power down.
Coil overs are one way to go and we have a number of different options from custom built units in our G2 line which I have a number of roll race guys on with great success. We have our GT2 adjustable units which are an option to go with as well.
At some point as the car gets quicker and you add more power to it, yes you are going to have to do a 15" conversion kit so you can get a real tire on the back that will take the power and put it down.
Hit me up if you have any questions, more than happy to help.
I would check the alignment first....nothing in the world is going to help if the tires are not pointed in the right direction.
ZR1 rear bar or our adjustable G1 rear bar would be a good idea to look at, but mostly this is going to help the car leave straight, not really help get the power down.
Coil overs are one way to go and we have a number of different options from custom built units in our G2 line which I have a number of roll race guys on with great success. We have our GT2 adjustable units which are an option to go with as well.
At some point as the car gets quicker and you add more power to it, yes you are going to have to do a 15" conversion kit so you can get a real tire on the back that will take the power and put it down.
Hit me up if you have any questions, more than happy to help.
I still dont get it how coul 15" wheel with narrower tire could be better than 17" wider tire in roll race ?
#8
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Ever watch a drag car leave? the tire almost lays down flat
Now of course that is a bit extreme compared to what you would see on your car but as the tire can compress, you leave a much larger "footprint" on the ground than just the width. So think about, again going extreme here...a pencil line 12" long compared to a 4" wide paint brush 10" wide. Which has more paint on the paper?
12" tire
------------
10" drag tire
==========
Suspension 100% is going to help with this too. You have to get some weight on the back tires, and force them to push the car forward so it will react quicker and you can get the power down...again total package thing here.
#9
Drifting
if youre running a radial. thats what you dont want to have happen ^^^
on a radial car. you want the suspension to separate and push the tire into the ground.
x2 for a set of viking coilovers
on a radial car. you want the suspension to separate and push the tire into the ground.
x2 for a set of viking coilovers
#10
Do you mean with leaf spring that the suspension is not seprated pushing the same amount in both tires which make it lose traction ?!
#12
Drifting
viking offers a 600hp+ drag racing coil over setup. thats what im going to get
Last edited by skull; 07-29-2016 at 01:24 PM.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
no... on a slick people tend to tell everyone you want the tire to wrinkle and let the body squat hard down on the tire. with a radial, you dont want it to wrinkle at all. i help on a mustang that goes 1.20 to the 60' on 18# of air pressure with the mickey thompson pro.
viking offers a 600hp+ drag racing coil over setup. thats what im going to get
viking offers a 600hp+ drag racing coil over setup. thats what im going to get
#14
Drifting
If you can afford those. Go for it. But I plan to buy Vikings and will be making the same power as the op. Haven't decided on the tire and wheel setup yet. Maybe a 16" rim on a 26" tire
#15
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
That being said you can find our adjustable GT2 coil overs through a number of dealers that would be a step over the Vikings at a similar price range.
#17
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
- Inverted shock design removes unsprung weight
- Infinitely rebuildable by us or the home user
- 100's of different shock valvings to use
- spring choices from 200-1500lbs
- All G2's are hand built to order per customer, not an off the shelf package
- Bilstein's "floating" nitrogen pressure chamber to maintain a constant fluid pressure
- Bilstein's Mono tube shock design
- spherical bearing mounts for a bind free install
- HyperCo barrel wound springs for little to no deflection during compression and no side loading
The Mono Tube/floating pressure chamber design which was developed by Bilstein has become one of the standards in performance shocks today. The reason behind this is to keep the oil in the shock under pressure which prevents it from foaming when temperatures and loads increase. By keeping the oil fluid, full damping power is able to be used and the shock will not fall off in performance.
Those are some of the main points that set these aside from most others on the market today and why we have trusted Bilstein for all of our shock needs over the last 25+ years of racing.
#18
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C5 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
2017 C5 of the Year Finalist
2016 C5 of the Year Finalist
2015 C5 of the Year Finalist
I Believe In The Beer Fairy
I kept it simple and it works for me, and I'm in the mid 800's.
STOCK sways
Bilstein Sport Shocks
305/35-19 Nitto NT05R's
No traction issues unless it's cold with cold tires. Under 60 and I hammer it she'll give a little but that's what ramping in the boost helps with.
STOCK sways
Bilstein Sport Shocks
305/35-19 Nitto NT05R's
No traction issues unless it's cold with cold tires. Under 60 and I hammer it she'll give a little but that's what ramping in the boost helps with.
#19
Melting Slicks
off the shelf first gen pfadt coil overs, phadt rear drag bar, high 1.2x 60'
#20
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I too am running 1st gen Pfadt coilovers w their light front, rear sways.. I am making right at 800lbs of TQ w 18 in Welds w a 345 out back. On the runway, it hooks very nicely in 3rd... 1,2 are useless... On the hwy it gets a little squirly in 3rd.... I know guys who are running a 17in wheel making 1100 to the tire and can hook on a MT ET street.... It can be done!