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Old 01-03-2013, 08:19 PM
  #21  
GP777
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod
I can verify it looked like it worked for the guy in the video.

I can certify that it didn't work for me at all.

I spent over an hour getting the wires to release using the coat hanger method. My OPS didn't fit any of my hundreds of sockets so I bought the special OPS socket from Auto Zone and that didn't fit either. In trying, I broke off the top off the OPS. I also broke the very fragile PVC hoses running behind the manifolds. It was snowing and I slipped and fell face first onto the intake manifold. I looked like a Klingon for a week.

I can testify that it takes no longer than 30 minutes (20 minutes if you are really cold, pissed off and your nose is bleeding) to remove the intake manifold. Unscrewing the OPS and throwing it across the snow covered yard takes a moment. Installing the new OPS, connecting it, replacing the PVC pipes with plastic hose from Lowe's, cleaning up the valley and the throttle body and reinstalling takes up the rest of the short wintery afternoon.

Piece of cake.
LOL...Funny story, it sounds exactly like my luck when working in tight spaces.

Thanks to all for the information.

No shortcuts...I think I'll just pull the manifold and hopefully save myself some stress.

Can the manifold gaskets be reused or should I plan on replacing them?
Old 01-03-2013, 09:05 PM
  #22  
nvusgt
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All gaskets can be reused so no worries about having to replace anything aside from the sensor itself. Bit of warning about disconnecting the fuel rail, it will spray all over the place because it's under pressure. Have plenty of rags as it will either go all over the place or soak several rags do to the amount. Also get some hose clamps or some vice grips to clamp the coolant lines as those will also leak everywhere if not taken care of properly.

Here's a pic of my relocation "kit" I assembled using various online stores and whatnot

Old 01-03-2013, 09:19 PM
  #23  
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jack car up take off 4 swaybar bolts ,let it hang.remove cradle bolts ,let cradle hang.easy access to sender .
Old 01-03-2013, 10:03 PM
  #24  
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Is this the best one to use?BWD - Oil Pressure Switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Part Number: S4202
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:45 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by littlefranks
jack car up take off 4 swaybar bolts ,let it hang.remove cradle bolts ,let cradle hang.easy access to sender .
I have to ask.............what???
Old 01-03-2013, 11:58 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod
I can verify it looked like it worked for the guy in the video.

I can certify that it didn't work for me at all.

I spent over an hour getting the wires to release using the coat hanger method. My OPS didn't fit any of my hundreds of sockets so I bought the special OPS socket from Auto Zone and that didn't fit either. In trying, I broke off the top off the OPS. I also broke the very fragile PVC hoses running behind the manifolds. It was snowing and I slipped and fell face first onto the intake manifold. I looked like a Klingon for a week.

I can testify that it takes no longer than 30 minutes (20 minutes if you are really cold, pissed off and your nose is bleeding) to remove the intake manifold. Unscrewing the OPS and throwing it across the snow covered yard takes a moment. Installing the new OPS, connecting it, replacing the PVC pipes with plastic hose from Lowe's, cleaning up the valley and the throttle body and reinstalling takes up the rest of the short wintery afternoon.

Piece of cake.
Dude, you are my kind of mechanic !! I thought this shnit only happened to me. I can take a ten minute job and turn into a weekend affair very easily. First, spend two days looking for the tool you just saw in the drawer the week before, then another hour doing the 10 minute job. Three trips to three stores for something they are all out of and you pretty much have my typical project..
Old 01-04-2013, 12:02 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by nvusgt
All gaskets can be reused so no worries about having to replace anything aside from the sensor itself. Bit of warning about disconnecting the fuel rail, it will spray all over the place because it's under pressure. Have plenty of rags as it will either go all over the place or soak several rags do to the amount. Also get some hose clamps or some vice grips to clamp the coolant lines as those will also leak everywhere if not taken care of properly.

Here's a pic of my relocation "kit" I assembled using various online stores and whatnot

Nice !
Old 01-04-2013, 09:51 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by CalF
Is this the best one to use?BWD - Oil Pressure Switch from O'Reilly Auto Parts.
Part Number: S4202
That would be the one. Make sure to open the box and check to make sure they give you the brass one.
Old 01-04-2013, 09:59 AM
  #29  
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Posts 2 & 3 covers it

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...placement.html
Old 01-04-2013, 10:43 AM
  #30  
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"Can the manifold gaskets be reused or should I plan on replacing them?"

If this is the first time the manifold has been off since the turn of the century by all means feel free - otherwise not. They are not gaskets in the traditional sense, they are 8 little foam rubber squarish O rings.

That tip about using tape or clothes pins to hold up the rearward most manifold bolts is important.

You will need a fuel line removal tool (cheap at any auto store) to remove the fuel line(s). You can release the pressure from the valve at the front of the fuel rail.

Douse the fuel line connection with WD40 or the cheap release tool can't do it's job.

Connect the vacuum lines at the back of the manifold just before you slide it in place. They are a bear to do with the manifold in place.
Old 01-04-2013, 10:59 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by slvr bulit

Are you sure its the sending unit? When my failed, it pegged at the high range.


I've never heard of an OPS fail showing 0 psi. Not saying it doesn't happen, but...

I would check out that the oil pump is working properly. Have you run the car since it shows no pressure? Does the valve train make a racket? Do you have access to a good mechanical pressure gauge?
Old 01-04-2013, 11:35 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by johnson-rod

You will need a fuel line removal tool (cheap at any auto store) to remove the fuel line(s). You can release the pressure from the valve at the front of the fuel rail.

Douse the fuel line connection with WD40 or the cheap release tool can't do it's job.
You don't need to disconnect the fuel lines, but it does make things a little easier. When I replaced my sender I didn't remove the intake completely, just disconnected everything needed to move the manifold out of the way a few inches and I had enough play in the braided fuel line to do this.
Old 01-04-2013, 02:07 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by littlefranks
jack car up take off 4 swaybar bolts ,let it hang.remove cradle bolts ,let cradle hang.easy access to sender .
Old 01-04-2013, 08:59 PM
  #34  
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What is the relocation kit and where can I get it?
Jeff
Old 01-05-2013, 12:20 AM
  #35  
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I installed the cheap aluminum one on my C5 over 30K (s)miles later when I sold it, it was still working

IMHO the issue is torque....
DO NOT over torque it
15 ft-lb max
done in 3 increments.
Old 01-05-2013, 02:08 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by littlefranks
jack car up take off 4 swaybar bolts ,let it hang.remove cradle bolts ,let cradle hang.easy access to sender .
What are you fixing?
Old 01-05-2013, 02:11 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dblerman
You don't need to disconnect the fuel lines, but it does make things a little easier. When I replaced my sender I didn't remove the intake completely, just disconnected everything needed to move the manifold out of the way a few inches and I had enough play in the braided fuel line to do this.
When I did it on my '98 with the two fuel lines, you have to remove the lines. They didn't allow enough movement.

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Old 01-05-2013, 05:14 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Enck
What is the relocation kit and where can I get it?
Jeff
Be wary of relocation kits. They come with their own problems. Best bet is to just do the job the way it's supposed to be done.
Old 01-05-2013, 05:14 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by littlefranks
jack car up take off 4 swaybar bolts ,let it hang.remove cradle bolts ,let cradle hang.easy access to sender .
Do you pull the engine to change the spark plugs too?
Old 01-05-2013, 08:48 AM
  #40  
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I had to replace mine a few years ago, It wasn't a bad job at all, I think I had the intake off in about 15 minuets, What I did was make a relocation kit in case it happened again, Now I can get to the sendor which is mounted right under the drivers side coil cover.
Here is the file I use to relocate mine and it worked great.
Mr.Bill

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File Type: pdf
Relocate using tubing.pdf (473.5 KB, 86 views)


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