Brad055

Are they reputable? Any experiences with this dealership? I searched the forum and all i could find was old threads (which seemed to have mixed reviews). I live roughly 600 miles from Dallas and have interest in this:

http://www.corvettewarehouse.com/200...-75220/5402621

2001 Corvette, 83k, 6spd, $16k, looks to be very clean from the pictures. Driving a car 600 miles without much more then a test-drive will make me nervous the whole way, but this car appears to be very solid. Any thoughts on this vehicle from current C5 owners?

myredhead1

I live 3 hours away in Shreveport and always checked their site when I was looking for my C5. I didn't buy from them bc at the time they didn't have what I wanted in my price range but they seem very upfront with their cars. What you see is what you get types.

bjones7131

To much in my opinion, i bought my 01, m6 with 45,000 last yr for less than that. Keep looking they r out there. Good luck

SMT1004

I checked out some cars from them last year, live 20 miles from them, when i was looking for my C5, very polite and my wife and i were treated really well. The inventory, at least at that time, was geared toward C6 models and the C5's they had seemed like used cars, not well maintained fresh examples of meticulously cared for vettes. I gave them my price range and preferences, good luck was pretty much the advice I recieved. Seems they were 3-5k over what you should be able to get one from a private sale, but they have overhead, etc. if your looking for a really nice example of a C5 I would probably look elsewhere, just my personal opinion. I ended up traveling 1,400 miles to find what we were looking for and am glad we did. Good luck with your search.

73Corvette

Looks like a great car... looks to be completely stock... Probably the FE1 soft ride suspension which I love. I wouldn't be afraid to jump in it and go...just drive it hard at the dealership before you buy it...if it's gonna break you want it to brake during that drive not on the way home... PULL the codes and study this before you commit to buying...

Why do you want a Corvette? Are you looking for excellent handling and performance even in stock form ? Then you’ll probably want to go in the Z06 direction (or possibly a Fixed Roof Coupe (FRC) to modify). They have stiffer chassis and suspension and also weigh a little more than 100 pounds less then coupes or convertibles. And with the Z06, you get anywhere from 385 hp (2001) to 405 hp (2002-2004) – a nice bump from the coupe or convertible hp ratings (either 345 (1997-2000) or 350 (2001-2004).

Perhaps you’re looking for a car that will make you grin when you put your foot in it but may not be the biggest or baddest on the block, and still fair very well in "spirited" driving? You may be better off in a coupe or convertible. Softer ride, less aggressive handling and not quite as much "umph" in these models but still a lot of fun to drive. Coupe versus convertible is a personal choice and neither one is "better" than the other. Both styles can be modified to meet or exceed base Z06 power and handling but won't do it in stock form.

The Z51 package for non-Z06 models updates the suspension to be more aggressive and rigid for improved handling over the base offering.

Or do you just plain like the looks of one style more than the others? There's no wrong answer. Test drive examples of all the styles to determine what suits your needs the best.

Any decision you make is the RIGHT decision for you and that's all that counts. Others liking the looks of your baby is always nice and a boost for the ego, but in the final analysis, YOU are going to be the one getting in and out of it on a consistent basis so YOU'D better like it – be patient and thorough in your evaluation of the car. And do not be afraid to travel a distance to find just the right car. The thread below is a list of forum members that have volunteered to help look at a car if it is a distance from you. Use this resource if you have to, but remember it is still your responsibility to make sure the car is to your liking.http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...u-all-new.html

There are also info files on Buying a C5 and also some Tech Info files for the C5 available in ZIP format. These are the files that Vettman Jack has been sending out manually in the past. (Thanks Jack!) Included is a Corvette Buyers Checklist that you can use when actually looking at the car. You can download the files of your choice at the following links:

Buying a C5, Word doc zipfile : http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?jgw95cqaoh6q8g3
C5 Tech info, Word doc zipfile : http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?ttwyoecqae2l9t3
C5 DIC Error Codes Only Word doc : http://www.mediafire.com/view/?vdt6i4snee8bt4l
Buying a C5 AND C5 Tech info Word doc zipfile :
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?9wj59qq26yf4ucm

Buying a C5, Adobe pdf zipfile : http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?apdpzdiiz1co01h
C5 Tech info, Adobe pdf zipfile : http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?m5vbqxe9kcvxfeh
C5 DIC Error Codes Only Adobe pdf : http://www.mediafire.com/view/?nqephlq7xpn5inc
Buying a C5 AND C5 Tech info, Adobe pdf zipfile :
http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?88hk8ypg2u8wbju

For information on higher mileage vehicles, see the information provided by bikeriderga at the bottom of this post

Download your file of choice to your system. Create a directory for the files and move or copy the downloaded zip file to that directory.

Start Windows Explorer and navigate to the directory and highlight the zip file.

Right click on the zip file and select Extract All.

In the popup, specify the directory to put the unzipped files into and then click Extract.
The source files will then be put into either a "doc" or "pdf" directory depending on
which format you downloaded.


If these links don't work for some reason, contact either Vetteman Jack or calvins for copies.
Vetteman Jack: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/priv...=newpm&u=12749
calvins (Steve): http://forums.corvetteforum.com/priv...=newpm&u=35270


Be familiar with what options were available and their codes.
Option Codes: http://home.fuse.net/corvette/rpo.htm

Decide what features are must haves, what ones are like to have, and what would be nice to have, in that order. Don't waiver just because you happen to see a nice car. Give up some of the musts and would likes, and you'll live to regret it.

Know how to pull the codes from the computer and what they mean. Pulling the DIC codes:
Retreiving & Clearing Codes on a 1997-2004 C5 Corvette - YouTube


. This can be done while you are looking at a car to buy. Bring a pen and paper with you and write down each code that shows up on the Driver’s Information Center (DIC).

Direct url: h ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SviRjIsy 9G4


These files containing the Code definitions are included in any of the Tech download zip files shown
above, or you can search for for them on the web if you prefer. Multiple sites have them listed.

If you do not know what the codes mean after looking at the Error Codes listing, post them up on the forum and ask for some help in deciphering them. It could save you a bundle of dollars by avoiding a car with costly repair needs.

Define your budget, that will determine a lot. Know what you will accept - miles on the car, condition, style, options, etc. All these things can affect the price you will have to pay.

What will your transmission of choice be – manual or automatic? Think hard on this. A lot of people give a knee jerk reaction of "manual or nothing!" but then get it and have to keep shifting in high traffic situations. Manual transmissions aren't for everyone. If you plan to track the car, automatics can be a good choice as you can't miss a shift.

One question invariably comes up: "What years are the best" - Generic answer: All of them - they're just different. The C5 platform is basically a solid one with not a lot of glaring problems. It can stand a fair amount of spirited driving and remain dependable. That's not to say it can't break, but it's not fragile either. The 2001 model year incorporated many design changes for earlier issues and also had more standard equipment. By the 2003 model year, many of the items listed as options in prior years were now standard equipment, but there were still a number of options available that you could choose from. One such option is the F55 Magnetic Selective Ride shocks. Nice feature until it breaks and then you're looking at about four grand in parts to replace the shocks alone.
A common reply to the question of what years to look for is "01 or later", largely due to the potential of EBCM issues (see below) fact of the numerous upgrades that happenedthat year, but a C5 is a good choice independent of year as long as you go in with eyes wide open and have done adequate research here.

Another question is "How much is it worth?" Between Kelly Blue Book (KBB) and National Automobile Dealers Association (NADA), KBB is usually on the VERY high side of values and no one pays those prices, or at least they probably shouldn't. The NADA values seem to map fairly close to the actual market values of the cars. Several factors can vary even that: geographic location, mileage, vehicle condition, consumer demand, market trends, as well as a host of other influences. But the NADA values are good ballpark indicators.

There are a few common problem areas that you should be aware of up front.

Electronic Brake Control Modules: 1997-2000 do have some EBCM breakages which can not be replaced or fixed at this point. PERIOD. Is not having Antilock Brakes a deal breaker for you? People drove cars for a long time without that function but only you can decide what's right for you. Currently 2001-2004 cars EBCM systems can be fixed or replaced if they fail.

Column Lock: The 1997-2000 A4s (automatics) and all M6's (manuals, with or without the factory recall done) have a dreaded column lock issue that if not resolved by the owner will most probably rear its head at some point. 2001 and later autos do *not* have the problem. The steering column will lock up and not unlock, rendering the car not able to be driven. One main cause of this is a bad or improper battery but it has occurred when that wasn't the cause as well. Beginning in 2001 model year, the automatics were changed and eliminated the problem. All the manuals have the problem.

There are two commonly accepted methods of really resolving the issue.

1) A Column Lock Bypass (CLB). Many forum vendors carry the part necessary to make a column lock problem a thing of the past. These include Corvettes of Houston, Mid-America Motorworks, etc.

2) A LMC5 Device: http://www.complianceparts.com/products.html

Here is a thread with details on the Column Lock issue but it was written prior to the advent of the LMC5 device.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ky-please.html There are a lot of forum threads on the column lock issue. Using the search function should bring up a number of them for you to review and learn.

Other common problems reported over the year include:
• Faulty gas gauge
• Oil pressure sensor failure
• Leaking rear differential seals
• Rocking Seats
• Leaking Battery

Once the starry eyes have passed and you’ve done your research, sit down and WRITE down what your perfect Corvette would be (the musts, would likes, etc). Color, automatic vs manual, body style, options xyz, etc.... I mean define your perfect car.

Armed with that you're ready to begin your search for your car. I emphasize “YOUR CAR”. Everyone has opinions and in this case, YOUR’S is the ONLY one that counts. Listen to your gut.

An ideal place to start would be to drive all of the models. Z06, base coupe, Z51 Coupe, convertible, FRC, automatic/manual, etc - in most cases this isn't realistic but you should definitely drive what you are able to in order to help make your decision.

Some repairs can get a bit expensive, but there are plenty of Do-It-Yourself threads here on the forum that can guide you through the repair and save you a bunch of money at the same time. Obviously some mechanical ability would be required. If you are not comfortable working on a car, then be sure you keep repair costs in mind. In any case, be sure unexpected repair costs won’t bust your budget and ruin your Corvette ownership experience.

It is recommended that you use Premium fuel in these cars. Yes, you can use lower octane gas, but performance suffers and long term reliability of the engine may be compromised. If filling a car with premium gas is an issue with you, perhaps reconsider your choice of cars.

Obviously look for the lowest miles and best condition vehicle that is within your price range. Always have any that you're serious about checked out by a reputable mechanic who's well versed with Corvettes. Notice that doesn't say Chevy dealer. If you don't know who to have check it out, see if there are any local car and/or Corvette clubs or organizations and seek out their advice. Or, refer back to the link above that lists forum members that will check out a car for you. Most people who have these cars are more than willing to help and share information.

Some additional information links:
Production codes and numbers:
http://www.vettefacts.com/

Corvette Museum:
http://www.corvettemuseum.org

General Research Site:
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/specs/index.html

Higher mileage considerations:

At 130K, you should look at the following:

1. Grounding Straps: Look for corrosion and/or frayed straps or wires.
2. Pull the battery. See if any acid has leaked on the wiring or look for wears or corrosion of the wiring harness.
3. The internal lights: Specifically the HVAC display, the bulbs for Speedo, Radio, etc.
4. The air conditioning. The HVAC actuators are known to go bad after time. Make sure all vents blow cold and hot air. Check to make sure that if the change the MODE on the HVAC head unit, it actually changes the air flow to the correct position.
5. Clutch: Should have been replaced. Does the owner have the repair order and replacement bill?
6. Service records: Oil changes, differential, and transmission fluid changes.
7. Tires and Wheels. How old, what shape are they in?
8. Weatherstripping: Not as big a problem on the Z06s or FRC as coupes and convertibles.
9. Sensors: Make sure to check for codes on the DIC. Look for current codes and history. The DIC is easy to clear, so once you take it for a test drive of five or more miles, stop and check.
10. Window actuators: Make sure all windows function as they should. Window actuators are a known problem.
11. Rattles: A 130K mile car is going to be loose. Listen for rattles. Where do they come from?
12. Oil Pressure: See if the pressure is in the good range.
13. Engine compression: If possible, have a compression check performed.
14. Exhaust and undercarriage: Check for rust, holes, etc.
15. Interior: Check seats, dash board, etc. Check for cracks, discoloration, etc.
16. Air Dam: Check to make sure it has not been damaged.
17. Air Filter: Has it been maintained? How clean/Not clean?
18. Vacuum Leaks: Again age on the hoses. These will cause issues with HVAC as well.
19. Body damage. See if you can spot any differences in paint or cracks. Normal stone chips expected to fender wells, noise, etc.
20. CarFax: Not always reliable, but a good precaution.
21. Steering: Is it tight or too much play? Could indicate worn ball joints, steering head, etc.
22. Suspension: Normal items, shocks, dust boots, bushings, etc.
23. Shifting transmission: Zs are a little tight, but run through the gears and listen for pinging and noise.
24. Oil Leaks. Check for oil leaks.
25. Coolant leaks. Check for coolant leaks.
26. Fuel Pump: Listen for fuel pump noise and smell of gasoline.
27. Tune up records: When were plugs and wires changed?
28. Brake pads and rotors. Brake jobs not too bad, but if the rotors are warped, it will be an added expense. Check for leaks.
29. Valve Spring changes. Known issue.

The electrical items will cost the most, unless you have serious mechanical problems.

That's about it. If all checks out, you should be good. Remember it is a 130K car, so it is not going to be perfect, unless the owner replaced parts regularly.

PhysicsDude55

When I was looking around for my C5 I checked out a lot of different C5s at Corvette Warehouse in Dallas. All of them seemed pretty overpriced, and I saw a lot of the same cars sit there for several months. One pace car they had got marked down $7,000 over 6 months, and still hadn't sold.

Probably not unusual for a corvette specific dealer, but I think better deals can be had if you know what you're looking for.

Not4spd

Walked in last May and a gentlemen I spoke with asked if I was looking for anything particular. I replied C5 Z06, and he stated they had several to choose from. Told me to look around and when I was ready just to let him know. Walked around the small showroom for a bit then headed to their "garage" that was like Corvette heaven.

After about 45 minutes of me looking at various ones he came back out and asked if I found anything I liked. I pointed to the 6 I was interested in and then he responds hang on a minute let me get the keys. He comes back and hands me the keys to the one I'm next to. Then says all the rest of the keys are on the roofs of the Vette's you mentioned. Feel free to start em' up and look them over.

Loved it, not one sales pitch, he didn't follow me around like a little puppy dog. Left me be to investigate further and see which one I liked the most. Prior to the test drive it was quite humorous because he asked if I wanted to do the NASCAR route or the autocross route. Told me where they both were, handed me the keys, and said have fun. When I returned I wrapped things up and was the proud owner of a 2003 MY Z06.

If/when I purchase another corvette in the future that will be the first place I go.

73Corvette

So now you have 2 or 3 Texans that might be willing to go checkout this car before you commit to driving that far to make a deal...

OneCylinder

I bought my '03 Z from them back in 2012. I was working in Mcallen (500 miles away) found them and the z on-line, got financing through their website. Flew to dallas, he picked me up at the airport, gave me a lot of Corvette info (first vette), showed the car, went for test drive, came back, completed paperwork then I went for the 500 mile test drive back to McAllen. (best part of the trip)

I had a very good experience and I'm very happy with my Z.

One thing, a couple of weeks later the PCM went out and was told the extended waranty did not cover that. A couple of months after that I read the extended waranty where it excludes modified engines and altered electronics. My z had been advertized with mods including an LG cam therefore they had to refund the full price of the extended waranty.

If they sell you an extended waranty make sure you read the policy.

A 600 mile drive will help you learn your car and shake-out possible problems, and I believe the law these days allows you to get out of a purchase within so many days. Don't take my word on that do some research.

Overall it's a good place to buy, you'll probobly pay a little more than on the street but they do check the cars out and clean them up good.

Good luck

cessna10

Check out buyavette in atlanta. They are pretty honest people.

TXGS507

Horrible experience w them many years ago.... They may have changed, I wouldn't buy a vette from Corvette Warehouse if it came with a 50% off tag....