C1233
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
C1233
On my way home... bam... Christmas in February!
Pull codes, C1233.... Reset.... Dash still lit up.
Go to the shop to check....
RF WSS Short or Open
Check the pins... pins ok. I did adjust them anyways...
Same codes
Changed the harness
Same codes
Measured the Resistance of the WSS
1.088kohm (within range)
AC Voltage... perfect and ok..
Changed the hub anyways....
Same code
Changed the EBCM
Same code although this one would give me a no comm from time to time.
Changed it back... same codes
Measured pin 24 and pin 10 on the EBCM. They have connection and no resistance to the WSS.
Checked to see if they were shorted to ground... none are shorted to ground
Checked if they had voltage.... NO voltage independently
Measured voltage between the 2 pins and I got 4.93v
Removed the right rear connector
Code c1235 was set (as expected)
Measured voltage between the 2 pins 4.86v
Connected back, cleared coded, didn't come back except c1233.
I am not sure how much voltage i should see across the pins, but I assume that .07v is not going to cause this code.
The manual doesn't state what voltage we should see between pins A/B.
The manual states that i should see no less than .25v and no more than 4.25v. I didn't pinch the cable while it was connected to see the voltage, I guess that is one other thing I could check.
Any ideas?
I have read a lot of posts and didn't find anything else to check other than grounding the Stainless Steel braided lines (I don't have those lines installed, they are factory). How do I go about grounding anything on the hub itself?
Did I miss to check anything?
My next test is to try the EBCM i have on my father's car to see if I still get the same codes on his car. This is assuming that both of the EBCMs i have are damaged.... Could be! but I doubt they would both give the SAME c1233 code.
Any other thoughts?
Pull codes, C1233.... Reset.... Dash still lit up.
Go to the shop to check....
RF WSS Short or Open
Check the pins... pins ok. I did adjust them anyways...
Same codes
Changed the harness
Same codes
Measured the Resistance of the WSS
1.088kohm (within range)
AC Voltage... perfect and ok..
Changed the hub anyways....
Same code
Changed the EBCM
Same code although this one would give me a no comm from time to time.
Changed it back... same codes
Measured pin 24 and pin 10 on the EBCM. They have connection and no resistance to the WSS.
Checked to see if they were shorted to ground... none are shorted to ground
Checked if they had voltage.... NO voltage independently
Measured voltage between the 2 pins and I got 4.93v
Removed the right rear connector
Code c1235 was set (as expected)
Measured voltage between the 2 pins 4.86v
Connected back, cleared coded, didn't come back except c1233.
I am not sure how much voltage i should see across the pins, but I assume that .07v is not going to cause this code.
The manual doesn't state what voltage we should see between pins A/B.
The manual states that i should see no less than .25v and no more than 4.25v. I didn't pinch the cable while it was connected to see the voltage, I guess that is one other thing I could check.
Any ideas?
I have read a lot of posts and didn't find anything else to check other than grounding the Stainless Steel braided lines (I don't have those lines installed, they are factory). How do I go about grounding anything on the hub itself?
Did I miss to check anything?
My next test is to try the EBCM i have on my father's car to see if I still get the same codes on his car. This is assuming that both of the EBCMs i have are damaged.... Could be! but I doubt they would both give the SAME c1233 code.
Any other thoughts?
#2
Instructor
Try swapping the jumper harneses from the left and right side of the vehicle and see if the code moves. Many people end up replacing this harnesses and it fixes their problem. I know you said you checked the pins, but the problem could be something else in that harness. The other thing I would suggest is tracing the wires to find a rub or pinch, but that will be a PITA. If all your measurements are good (components and sensors operating properly) then there is only wiring left to be the culprit right? My 2 cents....
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Oh... I fixed this... ended up being that the harness was actually squashed with the oil cooler lines right at the bottom of the engine.... they were not touching the chassis or anything but they appeared to be squashed too much against each other.... re routed them, and refinished the harness and problem solved.