Modifying The Fog Lamp Enclosures For Cold Air?
#1
Racer
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Modifying The Fog Lamp Enclosures For Cold Air?
Has anyone modified their fog lamp enclosures by drilling holes or cutting them out for "cold air" induction?
Would this work effectively with either a Blackwing or a Halltech Stinger air set-up and if so, how much added horses would this set-up produce?
Any and all opinions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
Would this work effectively with either a Blackwing or a Halltech Stinger air set-up and if so, how much added horses would this set-up produce?
Any and all opinions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
#3
Screens
21MC put screens in mine and took out the piece that blocked all the air
behind them. I have the Blackwing. Didnt notice anything now maybe in the summer I will but at least its opened up to to cool engine a bit and cooler air going in the intake. cant hurt
GO
behind them. I have the Blackwing. Didnt notice anything now maybe in the summer I will but at least its opened up to to cool engine a bit and cooler air going in the intake. cant hurt
GO
#4
Team Owner
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I took a utilty knive and cut the plastic in back. From 1/2 inch inside the fog light around the flat back portion of the schroud is what I cut out.
Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.
I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.
I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
#5
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I took a utilty knive and cut the plastic in back. From 1/2 inch inside the fog light around the flat back portion of the schroud is what I cut out.
Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.
I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.
I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
My IAT dropped 18 degrees after I installed the WCC cold air screens.
#8
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I took a utilty knive and cut the plastic in back. From 1/2 inch inside the fog light around the flat back portion of the schroud is what I cut out.
Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.
I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.
I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
here are home made cold air screens, I cut out the OEM fog surrounds and epoxied screens in and painted them satin black.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; 02-25-2005 at 10:13 PM.
#9
Safety Car
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Heh, I took out the fog lamp enclosures and replaced them with Vararam "enclosures". I hated the fake scoops, and I like the Vararam if only because they make the scoops functional.
#10
Melting Slicks
I used a Dremel tool and cut most of the insert out when putting my Z06 screens in. Not sure how much this will help, but know it can't hurt to get a little extra air in there.
#11
Melting Slicks
I had 21st CMC take my surrounds out completely and put in Z06 screens. It does help the IAT. What we really need to do is come up with the mod that makes those side gills functional.
#12
Racer
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Originally Posted by FrankMark
Has anyone modified their fog lamp enclosures by drilling holes or cutting them out for "cold air" induction?
Would this work effectively with either a Blackwing or a Halltech Stinger air set-up and if so, how much added horses would this set-up produce?
Any and all opinions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
Would this work effectively with either a Blackwing or a Halltech Stinger air set-up and if so, how much added horses would this set-up produce?
Any and all opinions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
If you want more horses, you have to stuff the air in by $upercharging!
#14
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by WolfeBros
I had 21st CMC take my surrounds out completely and put in Z06 screens. It does help the IAT. What we really need to do is come up with the mod that makes those side gills functional.
#16
Safety Car
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Originally Posted by debmwb
I wonder what the best use of the side gills would be? Flow thru venting of the brakes, or venting of the engine compartment?
#17
C5 - cutting new lower air intakes.
If you own a C5 - that's not a ZO6 then the area next to your foglight can provide extra cooling air for the car.
BEWARE - if you cut holes, or eliminate this are - you will need to purchase aftermarket screens to cover this are. Also the car will begin to lift at 130mph.
If you consistently drive at this speed you will need to take out partitions in the cove on each side of the car. Also put screens over this area.
This will decrease under hood pressure - caused by trapped air at speed and help in reducing lift.
BEWARE - if you cut holes, or eliminate this are - you will need to purchase aftermarket screens to cover this are. Also the car will begin to lift at 130mph.
If you consistently drive at this speed you will need to take out partitions in the cove on each side of the car. Also put screens over this area.
This will decrease under hood pressure - caused by trapped air at speed and help in reducing lift.
#18
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
If you own a C5 - that's not a ZO6 then the area next to your foglight can provide extra cooling air for the car.
BEWARE - if you cut holes, or eliminate this are - you will need to purchase aftermarket screens to cover this are. Also the car will begin to lift at 130mph.
If you consistently drive at this speed you will need to take out partitions in the cove on each side of the car. Also put screens over this area.
This will decrease under hood pressure - caused by trapped air at speed and help in reducing lift.
BEWARE - if you cut holes, or eliminate this are - you will need to purchase aftermarket screens to cover this are. Also the car will begin to lift at 130mph.
If you consistently drive at this speed you will need to take out partitions in the cove on each side of the car. Also put screens over this area.
This will decrease under hood pressure - caused by trapped air at speed and help in reducing lift.