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Modifying The Fog Lamp Enclosures For Cold Air?

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Old 02-24-2005, 10:48 PM
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FrankMark
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Default Modifying The Fog Lamp Enclosures For Cold Air?

Has anyone modified their fog lamp enclosures by drilling holes or cutting them out for "cold air" induction?

Would this work effectively with either a Blackwing or a Halltech Stinger air set-up and if so, how much added horses would this set-up produce?

Any and all opinions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
Old 02-24-2005, 11:03 PM
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leaftye
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It's been done, but a dyno won't reveal the results since cars are usually dyno'd with the hood open and a fan blowing on it, so it'd be the same either way.
Old 02-25-2005, 09:34 AM
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towercontroller
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Default Screens

21MC put screens in mine and took out the piece that blocked all the air
behind them. I have the Blackwing. Didnt notice anything now maybe in the summer I will but at least its opened up to to cool engine a bit and cooler air going in the intake. cant hurt

GO
Old 02-25-2005, 09:46 AM
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AU N EGL
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I took a utilty knive and cut the plastic in back. From 1/2 inch inside the fog light around the flat back portion of the schroud is what I cut out.

Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.

I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
Old 02-25-2005, 02:53 PM
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RPOZ4Z
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I took a utilty knive and cut the plastic in back. From 1/2 inch inside the fog light around the flat back portion of the schroud is what I cut out.

Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.

I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.




My IAT dropped 18 degrees after I installed the WCC cold air screens.
Old 02-25-2005, 08:36 PM
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sweetcharity
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Not sure about added HP but I drilled 5/8" holes all across the upper edges of the plastic inserts.
Old 02-25-2005, 08:43 PM
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I took mine completly out and added zo6 screens.Ill sell you mine so you can have a set to experiment with.Make me an offer.
Old 02-25-2005, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
I took a utilty knive and cut the plastic in back. From 1/2 inch inside the fog light around the flat back portion of the schroud is what I cut out.

Temps on the highway dropped 15 degrees in the engine bay and 10degrees on the track. The down side is that I have to put speed tape or duct tape on the screens in cold months to get the engine temp above 180* The engine works best between 196-210* coolent temp.

I also use a bottom breather air filter ( Cyclone with K&N ). any time you can get cold air into the engine the HP will go up some.
a simple stat change like I do in the winter months cures this problem.. takes five minutes to make the swap...I run a 190 from mid sept to mid April, and the car never gets below 190 coolant and 210 oil. Trying to keep the car in what I call the sweet spot ( 190/200 coolant... and 200/210 oil ). IN the summer I use a 160 stat with fans adjusted.. I also have cold air screens with a heat extracting hood... engine bay is really hard to get good readings, but my engine bay for the most part is +5/10 degrees max from ambient. I've probed about ten different spots under the hood... the nice thing about a heat extracting hood is when it's hot enough for the fans to be on, it sucks in cold air through the open screens and forces hot air to rise and be extracted buy the hood... Ill use a GM term from the 60"s "True Flow through ventilation" the flow of cold air is greatly enhanced by a heat extracting hood.

here are home made cold air screens, I cut out the OEM fog surrounds and epoxied screens in and painted them satin black.


Last edited by Evil-Twin; 02-25-2005 at 10:13 PM.
Old 02-25-2005, 09:00 PM
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Heh, I took out the fog lamp enclosures and replaced them with Vararam "enclosures". I hated the fake scoops, and I like the Vararam if only because they make the scoops functional.
Old 02-25-2005, 11:27 PM
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MY1STPEWTER
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I used a Dremel tool and cut most of the insert out when putting my Z06 screens in. Not sure how much this will help, but know it can't hurt to get a little extra air in there.
Old 02-25-2005, 11:46 PM
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I had 21st CMC take my surrounds out completely and put in Z06 screens. It does help the IAT. What we really need to do is come up with the mod that makes those side gills functional.
Old 02-27-2005, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by FrankMark
Has anyone modified their fog lamp enclosures by drilling holes or cutting them out for "cold air" induction?

Would this work effectively with either a Blackwing or a Halltech Stinger air set-up and if so, how much added horses would this set-up produce?

Any and all opinions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks!
Like everyone else, I removed most of the fog lamp enclosures and will be installing Z06 screens. This will allow more outside (cooler) air to pass to whatever air box type you have. Don't know how many extra horses it will produce, but it won't hurt anything either.

If you want more horses, you have to stuff the air in by $upercharging!
Old 02-27-2005, 10:58 AM
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debmwb
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Like everyone else...I've cut out mine and put in Z06 air screens also. Probably adds more HP than a few Type-R stickers!
Old 02-27-2005, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by WolfeBros
I had 21st CMC take my surrounds out completely and put in Z06 screens. It does help the IAT. What we really need to do is come up with the mod that makes those side gills functional.
I wonder what the best use of the side gills would be? Flow thru venting of the brakes, or venting of the engine compartment?
Old 02-27-2005, 11:54 AM
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AU N EGL
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Thanks ET- I run a 185* t-stat now.
Old 02-27-2005, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by debmwb
I wonder what the best use of the side gills would be? Flow thru venting of the brakes, or venting of the engine compartment?
The SLR uses hood venting for low speeds, but closes off the hood vents at higher speeds to prevent reversion. At higher speeds, underhood heat is vented thru the side gills. Side gill venting makes sense for the Corvette too. For wheel well venting, the ACP vented hood will vent the wheel wells and the radiator...which also helps reduce front end lift.
Old 06-29-2015, 12:26 PM
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schnellerkerl
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Default C5 - cutting new lower air intakes.

If you own a C5 - that's not a ZO6 then the area next to your foglight can provide extra cooling air for the car.

BEWARE - if you cut holes, or eliminate this are - you will need to purchase aftermarket screens to cover this are. Also the car will begin to lift at 130mph.

If you consistently drive at this speed you will need to take out partitions in the cove on each side of the car. Also put screens over this area.

This will decrease under hood pressure - caused by trapped air at speed and help in reducing lift.
Old 06-29-2015, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by schnellerkerl
If you own a C5 - that's not a ZO6 then the area next to your foglight can provide extra cooling air for the car.

BEWARE - if you cut holes, or eliminate this are - you will need to purchase aftermarket screens to cover this are. Also the car will begin to lift at 130mph.

If you consistently drive at this speed you will need to take out partitions in the cove on each side of the car. Also put screens over this area.

This will decrease under hood pressure - caused by trapped air at speed and help in reducing lift.
Good information thanks. Just realize that the thread is 10 years old.
Old 06-30-2015, 08:35 AM
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schnellerkerl
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Originally Posted by alxltd1
Good information thanks. Just realize that the thread is 10 years old.
You found it.
So maybe it will help someone else.

Thanks,
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