Power Steering Pulley Removal???
#2
Safety Car
Originally Posted by JGreen
Anyone know how to remove the pulley from the power steering pump? Can I do it without removing the pump?
#3
Racer
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St. Jude Donor '06
Just removed mine for the first time for a chrome alt. bracket swap.
It was pretty easy once the bracket was out. I got the tool (power steering pully puller/installer) from AutoZone. They have a free rental program. You buy the tool and then return it for a full refund. They do this for alot of specialty tools.
Good Luck
It was pretty easy once the bracket was out. I got the tool (power steering pully puller/installer) from AutoZone. They have a free rental program. You buy the tool and then return it for a full refund. They do this for alot of specialty tools.
Good Luck
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
So I do not have to remove it from the car, just unbolt it but leave the hoses connected? Mine has a large gouge out of one side. I am getting ready to replace the serpentine belt to get rid of the infamous squeak, and want to ensure that I do not chew up the new belt.
thanks for the replies
thanks for the replies
#6
Racer
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There are a few ways to do this however both require you to remove the pump from the bracket. You cannot change the pulley with the pump in the car. | You have that damn ABS box directly infront of the pulley, so there is no room to get the puller on the end of the shaft.
#7
Racer
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not to mention the pump needs to be firmly secured to R & R a press fit ps pulley. Leaving the pump still attached by the high pressure line is some thing that I would not recomend.
#8
Safety Car
Originally Posted by SynistrC5
There are a few ways to do this however both require you to remove the pump from the bracket. You cannot change the pulley with the pump in the car. | You have that damn ABS box directly infront of the pulley, so there is no room to get the puller on the end of the shaft.
Originally Posted by SynistrC5
not to mention the pump needs to be firmly secured to R & R a press fit ps pulley. Leaving the pump still attached by the high pressure line is some thing that I would not recomend.
Really not that much more to it though!
#10
Racer
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with the pump and pulley mounted there is only like a 1/2" in between the box and pulley most pf install tools are at least 2.5" long and if you loosen the box you get your self into a bucket of worms there are so many lines coming in and out it best to not mess with it. I have R & R the front dress of my c5 4 times in the past year because i keep buying things like polished alt/ps bracket, polished ps pump, billet ps pulley etc.
if you want to know how to do this here is one way.
drain ps fluid I use the turkey baster technique
remove alternator
2 X 15mm bolts, unhook electrical
take off 2 upper alt bracket bolts which also hold ps reservoir bracket
remove hose clamp from return line of reservoir
it is best to then break the plastic pulley, by prying against the outside lip with a screw driver,because it is solid and there are 4 bolts behind that pulley that hold the pump to the bracket. You can access these if you have a lift however I cannot stress how much of a pain in the a*s they are
remove ps pressure line from rack end, fish line out of engine compartment with pump assembly
* this part is available from our sponsors like Thunder Racing, Ecklers & Zip*
it is best to purchase an aftermarket ps pulley
like this one becuase it is spoked you can access the ps pump retaining bolts with the pulley installed
next unbolt the 2 lower alt/ps bracket bolts
remove the alt/ps bracket from the engine compartment
*optional but recomended - ubolts the 6 bolts that hold the wp to the block, this will help upon re-installtion
use pf pulley install tool to press on ps pulley to pump shaft
after press fit ps pulley has been installed
slide the 2 lower bolts that hold the alt/ps bracket to the engine through thier appropriatte holes( this is important because once the pump is bolted back into the bracket you cannot slide these bolts in the thier holed because the out side edge of the pulley blocks them
after the 2 bolts are slide through the holes, tighten the 4 retaining pump bolts back into the alt/psbracket
after the pump has been reinstalled into its bracket insert the bracket assembly into engine compartment
* this is where removing the water pump body would have helped*
slide the bracket over to the center of the engine, to make it easier to re attach the pressure line on the rack side . tighten rack side of pressure line
thread 2 lower alt/ps bracket bolts into the motor do not tighten at this point
thread top 2 bolts into 2 upper holes do no forget to reintall the ps reservoir bracket at this point
once all holes are filled tighten all alt/ps bracket retaining bolts
reconnect hose clamp on ps reservoir return line
*reinstall 6 bolts the attach water pump if you had removed it*
tighten 2 bolts the hold alternator body to alt bracket
reconnect electrical connections on back of alt.
believe me it sounds easier than it is, I definetly recomend that you install the aftermarket billet pulley if you are in need of a ps pulley because of the ease of installation and strength. I dont know if any one has had any problems with increased hp and thier plastic ps pulley but I know that the 96 up vipers went to a plastic ps pulley and those guys are having problems when they mod the cars. The plastic portion of the ps pulley is actually seperating from the center steel insert. Hopefully this helps you out
if you want to know how to do this here is one way.
drain ps fluid I use the turkey baster technique
remove alternator
2 X 15mm bolts, unhook electrical
take off 2 upper alt bracket bolts which also hold ps reservoir bracket
remove hose clamp from return line of reservoir
it is best to then break the plastic pulley, by prying against the outside lip with a screw driver,because it is solid and there are 4 bolts behind that pulley that hold the pump to the bracket. You can access these if you have a lift however I cannot stress how much of a pain in the a*s they are
remove ps pressure line from rack end, fish line out of engine compartment with pump assembly
* this part is available from our sponsors like Thunder Racing, Ecklers & Zip*
it is best to purchase an aftermarket ps pulley
like this one becuase it is spoked you can access the ps pump retaining bolts with the pulley installed
next unbolt the 2 lower alt/ps bracket bolts
remove the alt/ps bracket from the engine compartment
*optional but recomended - ubolts the 6 bolts that hold the wp to the block, this will help upon re-installtion
use pf pulley install tool to press on ps pulley to pump shaft
after press fit ps pulley has been installed
slide the 2 lower bolts that hold the alt/ps bracket to the engine through thier appropriatte holes( this is important because once the pump is bolted back into the bracket you cannot slide these bolts in the thier holed because the out side edge of the pulley blocks them
after the 2 bolts are slide through the holes, tighten the 4 retaining pump bolts back into the alt/psbracket
after the pump has been reinstalled into its bracket insert the bracket assembly into engine compartment
* this is where removing the water pump body would have helped*
slide the bracket over to the center of the engine, to make it easier to re attach the pressure line on the rack side . tighten rack side of pressure line
thread 2 lower alt/ps bracket bolts into the motor do not tighten at this point
thread top 2 bolts into 2 upper holes do no forget to reintall the ps reservoir bracket at this point
once all holes are filled tighten all alt/ps bracket retaining bolts
reconnect hose clamp on ps reservoir return line
*reinstall 6 bolts the attach water pump if you had removed it*
tighten 2 bolts the hold alternator body to alt bracket
reconnect electrical connections on back of alt.
believe me it sounds easier than it is, I definetly recomend that you install the aftermarket billet pulley if you are in need of a ps pulley because of the ease of installation and strength. I dont know if any one has had any problems with increased hp and thier plastic ps pulley but I know that the 96 up vipers went to a plastic ps pulley and those guys are having problems when they mod the cars. The plastic portion of the ps pulley is actually seperating from the center steel insert. Hopefully this helps you out
#11
Racer
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oppps sorry almost forgot ps system bleeding.
once everything is installed fill ps reservoir with fluid you may want to have a buddy help you with this.
have you or your buddy turn the wheel from stop to stop until all the bubbling stops in the reservoir fill again if necessary
once the bubbling has stopped start engine. Again have you or your buddy turn wheel from stop to stop until bubbling stops.
thread back on reservoir cap and then drive
once everything is installed fill ps reservoir with fluid you may want to have a buddy help you with this.
have you or your buddy turn the wheel from stop to stop until all the bubbling stops in the reservoir fill again if necessary
once the bubbling has stopped start engine. Again have you or your buddy turn wheel from stop to stop until bubbling stops.
thread back on reservoir cap and then drive
#13
Safety Car
Seems like you have done it too many times! When you know all those details it's proof! seem like nothing is getting simple any more. I though a C4 was bad! I'm glad I haven't had to do mine (yet). Your instruction were great I'll be saving them.
Thanks from one more of us
Thanks from one more of us
#15
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by SynistrC5
R & R was short for Remove and Replace
It is also what you need after you finish fighting with the pulley....
Rest and Relaxation.