Service AH/ABS/TC, Code 1233 H C
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Service AH/ABS/TC, Code 1233 H C
I know it indicates right front wheel speed circuit open or shorted.....all contacts have been checks, and three separate wheel bearing/hub assys have been tested, to no avail.
Ideas? EBCM?
Ideas? EBCM?
#4
Pro
Have a look at this thread. Might be in the electrical connections in the harness. Bill C. knows more about this sort of stuff than anyone else I know of.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+speed+circuit
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+speed+circuit
Last edited by jclarksnakes; 03-21-2008 at 12:10 AM.
#5
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I think the lack of replies is that you have an unusual failure.
From the book, the DTC sets when the voltages from the wheel speed sensor circuit and wheel speed sensor return circuits are showing an error.
The C1233 sets under 3 situations:
A short to voltage (wheel speed sensor circuit >4.25v)
A short to ground (wheel speed sensor return voltage <0.75v)
An open (wheel speed sensor circuit >4.25v and wheel speed sensor return voltage <0.75v)
I'm no expert but I'd say you need to have another shot at either the connections and grounds. If not it could be the sensor itself is shot. Bill's post linked above is great as usual and as you can see, the sensor is part of the hub.
From the book, the DTC sets when the voltages from the wheel speed sensor circuit and wheel speed sensor return circuits are showing an error.
The C1233 sets under 3 situations:
A short to voltage (wheel speed sensor circuit >4.25v)
A short to ground (wheel speed sensor return voltage <0.75v)
An open (wheel speed sensor circuit >4.25v and wheel speed sensor return voltage <0.75v)
I'm no expert but I'd say you need to have another shot at either the connections and grounds. If not it could be the sensor itself is shot. Bill's post linked above is great as usual and as you can see, the sensor is part of the hub.
#6
Safety Car
Your profile shows the car is heavily modified ... I'm betting you have braided stainless steel brake lines to the calipers.
If you have stainless steel, do you know the vendor ???? Russell (bad), Goodridge, or Earls (both good) ????
If you've checked the wiring connectors to the hub speed sensors and are sure thay are clean .... it is 95 percent that it is your brake lines, as they provide the ground path for the sensors.
The OEM "rubber" lines have wires embedded in them for the ground. The Russell lines, especially if the brakes are used hard, have a tendancy to have the braiding seperate from the connectors enough to cause the sensor to act "flakey".
Last edited by BlackZ06; 03-21-2008 at 08:12 AM.
#7
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C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circ Open or Shorted
Your profile shows the car is heavily modified ... I'm betting you have braided stainless steel brake lines to the calipers.
If you have stainless steel, do you know the vendor ???? Russell (bad), Goodridge, or Earls (both good) ????
If you've checked the wiring connectors to the hub speed sensors and are sure thay are clean .... it is 95 percent that it is your brake lines, as they provide the ground path for the sensors.
The OEM "rubber" lines have wires embedded in them for the ground. The Russell lines, especially if the brakes are used hard, have a tendancy to have the braiding seperate from the connectors enough to cause the sensor to act "flakey".
Your profile shows the car is heavily modified ... I'm betting you have braided stainless steel brake lines to the calipers.
If you have stainless steel, do you know the vendor ???? Russell (bad), Goodridge, or Earls (both good) ????
If you've checked the wiring connectors to the hub speed sensors and are sure thay are clean .... it is 95 percent that it is your brake lines, as they provide the ground path for the sensors.
The OEM "rubber" lines have wires embedded in them for the ground. The Russell lines, especially if the brakes are used hard, have a tendancy to have the braiding seperate from the connectors enough to cause the sensor to act "flakey".
Great post Steve. Would never have thought of that
#9
Safety Car
OK, take a look at the wiring from the speed sensor. It is plugged into a harness that then ends about 24 inches later where it attaches to the main wiring loom.
Swap the harness from the right side to the left side, and vice versa. We are going to see if the problem moves with the harness, or stays at the one side.
After swapping the harness, drive for a day or two (or however long it takes for the problem to appear), and let's see what happens.
Swap the harness from the right side to the left side, and vice versa. We are going to see if the problem moves with the harness, or stays at the one side.
After swapping the harness, drive for a day or two (or however long it takes for the problem to appear), and let's see what happens.