Harmonic Balancer: SLP (Powerbond) vs Trick Flow vs Summit Racing
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Harmonic Balancer: SLP (Powerbond) vs Trick Flow vs Summit Racing
I'm looking to do a head/cam swap on my 99 vette and figure while I'm there, might aswell replace the stock balancer. I've been looking for one under $200 and these three seem to stand out.
SLP (Powerbond)
Trick Flow
Summit Racing
Out of the three which one should I get?
SLP (Powerbond)
Trick Flow
Summit Racing
Out of the three which one should I get?
#2
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
All I know is,,,I UP-GRADED to the Powerbond and have been 100% satisfied with it. ZERO issues on my 02 ZO6 heads/cam/Poted FAST90/90 install. Excellent quality!!!!!
Its a quality piece and comes with a nice key way for pinning if you desire:
BC
Its a quality piece and comes with a nice key way for pinning if you desire:
BC
#3
Banned Scam/Spammer
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Location: Machineguns, because I don’t compromise
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$.02
You've asked at the perfect time.
Here are the results of my experience and reseach.
Powerbond: Good part, but HeAvY like stock. Also, it will rust in a few years. I bought a used one that was 3 years old and the clearcoat was failing in some areas and rust was getting a solid foothold. I could beadblast and reclear but decided to dump it for what I paid ($110 shipped)
ASP: had one on my '02 Firehawk (similar piece as Corvette) and the front plate slung off my engine after 7 months while I was spinning the motor about 6k rpm. Huge scare. The part still funnctioned without the endplate, but damn.... I've seen used parts (pictures) with the same end plate missing.
Summit: Only research, no personal experience. Considering it's mild steel with a clear coat like the powerbond/slp I'll pass because I want a decade of good looks before I pull the motor down to refresh.
My personal decision???
BBK two piece unit (google search) with a steel snout and a billit (mild polished) alminum hub over the elastomer. Looks trick, and the company itself is American with a history for well made parts. I'll give them a chance with their billit pulley.
With the steel inner hub it has the hardness where it's needed. With the aluminum main section it's both corrosion resistant and lightwieght. Why not drop a few pounds of rotational weight while you're at it (like an aluminum flywheel)?
BBK sells for $229 and that's my order being placed 01/04/10
I'm going to mirror polish the aluminum hub and add it to the bling that will make for a well rounded engine.
Add a cam, timing chain, oil pump, polish the timing cover and button up the fully polished shortblock.
Here are the results of my experience and reseach.
Powerbond: Good part, but HeAvY like stock. Also, it will rust in a few years. I bought a used one that was 3 years old and the clearcoat was failing in some areas and rust was getting a solid foothold. I could beadblast and reclear but decided to dump it for what I paid ($110 shipped)
ASP: had one on my '02 Firehawk (similar piece as Corvette) and the front plate slung off my engine after 7 months while I was spinning the motor about 6k rpm. Huge scare. The part still funnctioned without the endplate, but damn.... I've seen used parts (pictures) with the same end plate missing.
Summit: Only research, no personal experience. Considering it's mild steel with a clear coat like the powerbond/slp I'll pass because I want a decade of good looks before I pull the motor down to refresh.
My personal decision???
BBK two piece unit (google search) with a steel snout and a billit (mild polished) alminum hub over the elastomer. Looks trick, and the company itself is American with a history for well made parts. I'll give them a chance with their billit pulley.
With the steel inner hub it has the hardness where it's needed. With the aluminum main section it's both corrosion resistant and lightwieght. Why not drop a few pounds of rotational weight while you're at it (like an aluminum flywheel)?
BBK sells for $229 and that's my order being placed 01/04/10
I'm going to mirror polish the aluminum hub and add it to the bling that will make for a well rounded engine.
Add a cam, timing chain, oil pump, polish the timing cover and button up the fully polished shortblock.
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ArmchairArchitect (05-09-2017)
#6
Burning Brakes
Joshua, I don't think my ASP has any kind of cover on the front - maybe only the F-bodies have that?
Had my ASP about 3 years, really impressed with how smooth and aligned it is; runs absolutely perfectly straight. But the others mentioned above look pretty good also. Probably not an issue with any of them unless you are running a very high-RPM engine or SC and need the very best.
Take care to do the install really well!!!!
DG
Had my ASP about 3 years, really impressed with how smooth and aligned it is; runs absolutely perfectly straight. But the others mentioned above look pretty good also. Probably not an issue with any of them unless you are running a very high-RPM engine or SC and need the very best.
Take care to do the install really well!!!!
DG
#7
Burning Brakes
I looked at all of those and went with a fluidampr after reading on about it I couldn't be happyer car motor runs real smooth it balances itself perfectly but thats my choice you can make yours read about it before you decide
Last edited by road dog; 01-04-2010 at 07:35 PM. Reason: added
#9
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
I've been using Powerbond on my C5 for three years now with zero issues - excellent quality! Used on the road courses (sustained high RPMs and torque), very reliable. If I ever had to replace it, I would buy another one.
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ArmchairArchitect (05-09-2017)
#11
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
#13
Race Director
#15
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St. Jude Donor '08
The rubber elastomer bond between the HUB and the outer ring WILL FAIL. If and when it separates and allows the outer Ring to detach from the inner HUB. When it does,,,the outer ring will either travel back and destroy the timing chain cover OR travel froward and destroy the serpentine belt and the steering rack. Another failure point is the sealing surface of the damper. Mine failed and became a MAJOR oil leak. Its just a failure pont waiting to disable your C5!
The sealing surface on my hub failed and caused a masive oil leak.
Save your self some greif and replace the OEM damper before it fails on its own.
BC
REPLACE the OEM damper. It will fail sooner then later.
#18
Race Director
The rubber elastomer bond between the HUB and the outer ring WILL FAIL. If and when it separates and allows the outer Ring to detach from the inner HUB. When it does,,,the outer ring will either travel back and destroy the timing chain cover OR travel froward and destroy the serpentine belt and the steering rack. Another failure point is the sealing surface of the damper. Mine failed and became a MAJOR oil leak. Its just a failure pont waiting to disable your C5!
The sealing surface on my hub failed and caused a masive oil leak.
Save your self some greif and replace the OEM damper before it fails on its own.
BC
REPLACE the OEM damper. It will fail sooner then later.
I have the Powerbond and no complaints with the part, only that the belt #s were way off that it said to use, and i had to make about 3 trips to napa and measure out the right belts myself
#19
Racer
So Powerbond appears to be a great replacement unit. But The GM serpentine belt apparently does not fit on these unit ?
- What bolts are required ?
- they have 3 models ,standard , and 10% and 25% underdrive would the GM belt work whit any of these units.
Reason I 'm asking is that I already have my new GM belts waithing to go on as part of my H/C.
Also whit the 10% underdrive I would not expect to experience the alternator / charging issues associated whit the 25% ones.
- What bolts are required ?
- they have 3 models ,standard , and 10% and 25% underdrive would the GM belt work whit any of these units.
Reason I 'm asking is that I already have my new GM belts waithing to go on as part of my H/C.
Also whit the 10% underdrive I would not expect to experience the alternator / charging issues associated whit the 25% ones.
#20
"AlohaC5" Senior Member
The standard pulley should use the OEM size belt, while the 25% UD pulley will use the Gates #K060775 accessory belt. The 10% UD pulley requires either a Goodyear #4060755 or NAPA #NBH25060755 belt. You'll be very happy with this product! I use to use the 25% UD then went with the 10% UD pulley. No charging issues with either one, just wanted to try something different for the road courses.
Last edited by Gray Ghost GS; 01-06-2010 at 09:39 PM.