C5_Z06

I posted this in the Z06 section but didn't get any responce so I'll try here instead.

I've installed T1 springs, shocks ans bars on my Z06. For the bars I opted to keep to stock metal end links to avoid the sound issues.

I've been trying the get the ride height setup correctly. I'd like to keep the stock height, or maximum 10 mm lower per GM recommendations for best handling. I started with installing the height adjusters evenly, i.e equal number of threads shown left/right. By doing this, and measuring the trim height at the frame (J and K position), car was lower on the passenger side by about 1/3".

After that I've been turning the adjusters to get the car even on both sides. I've manged to get it level now but with the result that the adjusters are set differently left/right. I'd guess it's probably 5-6 turns that differ. I've driven the car between each change so it doesn't need to settle. All adjustments have been done with the bars links attached.

Ride height measured at the frame (jacking locations) is about 131 mm front and 133 mm rear. It's even left/right now after the adjustments. Mesuring the fender gap I get 69cm (27 1/8") front and 71cm (28") rear.

Questions are:

Is it common for not haveing equal settings of the adjusters to get an even left/right ride height?

Is 5-6 turns difference on the adjusters ok (left/right)?

Are the measurements above correct for a non lowered Z06?

Currently I don't have the possibility to get check the corner weight so should I aim for level ride height or equal number of threads showing on the adjusters?

The manual says the trimlevel should be 151 mm. That seems quite high. About 1" higher compared to what I have now. I measured it at the frame just outside of the indent that is directly around the hole for the jacking pucks.

AU N EGL

1 do not measure to the fenders. Fenders are never equal.

with the t1 system your car will be about 1" lower then stock.

it takes a while for the stiffer T1 springs to settle the car.

Remember when you measure ride height if you are the only one who normally rides in your car, put your wt in the drivers seat.

I put 200 lbs of old brake rotors in my drivers seat, then measure and adjust ride height.

Measure the frame to ground, not the best but close:
Just in front of the front jacking puck holes, car is 4"
just behind the rear jacking puck holes, car is 4 3/8"

stock ride height

5" and 5 1/2"

Best way to measure is with a ride height gauge where the A-arms meet the frame

C5_Z06

I measured at the fenders just for reference. I guess I need a bit more rake since I only have 4-5 mm differnece front to rear (on the frame)?

So without the possibility to corner weight should I aim for even ride height instead of even number of threads showing on the adjusters? Is it common the end up with 4-5 turns difference left to right?

AU N EGL

Close dont use thread count, those are never right.

use a tape measure to the frame.

and you NEED a 3/8" to 1/2" rake for high speed stabilty

C5_Z06

Ok, I'll try stop thinking about the uneven number of threds then, even though ot bothers me abit still. :o

I'll lover it a bit more in the front to get the rake correct. I wonder were you or are supposed the measure the height to get the GM numbers? It is supposed to be 157mm (J and K acc to manual). I'm at 130 mm now and the heigt appears to be close to stock. I measured by the jacking point directly on the frame where it's flat.

Btw, do you know roughly how much higher the car should be on the drivers side to compensate for a 165 lbs driver?