Tormania

I see several online installation guides on replacing the brake pads on the C5. But where they seem to stray some is concerning the clips for the pads and putting silicone grease behind the new pads. I've never changed my pads myself but have watched them be replaced a few times and I don't ever recall seeing the clips replaced or silicone grease used. (BTW, never have had a problem with the brakes after 12+ yrs and 122,000 miles.)

How imperative are these two items to be included in the steps for a brake pad replacement or is it as simple as some guides show with just popping out the old pads are putting the new ones in as is?

Bill Curlee

I use a brake pad anti squeal spray (basicly an adhesive) that gets applied on the back of the pad. It adhears the pad to the caliper piston with aplyable bond and the pad to the caliber with the same bond. They DO NOT make any noise using this method.

Here is where i think your getting bum dope. The C5 & C6 caliper slides on two pins. The pins are sealed with rubber boots. Inside the caliper is a SPECIAL High temp senthitic brake caliper grease. Any auto supplier has it. Its NOT SILICONE GREASE!!!!!!!!!!!

It comes in small packets or in the 8 oz bottle

This is the best stuff that I found:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...nce_repair.htm

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...per_Lube_1.htm

Bill

Tormania

Thanks Bill. I'll look to pick up the spray and special grease at the local auto parts store. I assume the adhesive nature of the spray eliminates the concern of replacing clips, correct?

Bill Curlee

Ive never had to replace them ast they do not wear out!

Tormania

Good to know. Didn't want to be one of those jobs where I had extra parts left over and didn't know what to do with them.

CHJ In Virginia

You can do the job quick and dirty just slapping in a new set of pads and potentially have squeels, noise and excess pad wear. To do a proper brake job, there are additional maintenance items that need to be performed. The slider pins definitely need to have the rubber boots pulled back and inspected for proper lubrication. The hi-temp grease is used here. If the pins bind or seize, you will see rapid wear on the inside brake pad. To avoid noise a light coating of the hi-temp grease is also useful on the caliper piston surface that contacts the brake shoe and on each end support tang of the shoe that rests in the caliper bracket. I disagree with Bill on the anti-rattle spring clips both on the caliper bracket and the ones in the caliper. These clips do loose tension over time and can allow the brake shoe to move around causing very objectionable noise. GM includes a new set of clips with every set of OEM -pads. A 40K mile car probably will not need them, a 100K mile car definitely does. Rotors also factor into a proper job but are beyond the OP's question.

Tormania

Thanks for the added info. For the record the car has 122k miles on it and has aftermarket rotors and Hawk HPS pads on it now. My first job is to inspect pad thickness as after a short track event last month the pedal takes a lot more effort to get the car slowed down and I want to make sure that the pads are good before another track event in a couple weeks. If the pads are thin then I'll be putting new ones on, may do so anyway just to be safe and prudent.

bighank

When Advance or maybe Trak was out of the the small plastic packs of caliper grease I paid about $8 for the 8 oz jar. Thought it would last a lifetime. 5 yrs later and a dozen or more break jobs including relubing caliper pins on various cars I still have about 2 oz left. Not a lifetime supply but I must have saved $20 or more versus the small plastic bags. Go for it and your set for several years.
BIGHANK

justkickin

This implies it may also be your brake fluid. If it boils or gets too hot your pedal will feel soft as you mention. I use ATE Blue or Gold, depends which is in there when I want to bleed and I get the other color to fill with. Really makes it easy to tell when done.

Others also use Motul race fluids.

Basically, you need a hi-temp brake fluid as well as decent pads if you are hitting the track.

If your HPS's are in good shape, get a set of HP+'s and new brake fluid. Use the HP+ on the track and the HPS on the street as the HP+ will squeel like a stuck pig on the street (some mind, I don't) but when hot at the track they will grab a lot better than the HPS.

LoneStarFRC

Several years ago I bought a 2.5oz tube and I still have some left. It contains moly, graphite and Teflon. It's very water-resistant and also prevents rust, etc.

franman69

I've read some reviews with concerns about the compatibility of this particular Permatex product with some Rubber bushings and boots.. like the ones over the caliper slides. This formulation on the 24110 is proprietary and is not compatible with certain types of rubber such as Buna-S and may cause swelling or seizing.. Any problems with this for anybody?? I've been considering buying the Permatex 24115 as it's a silicon based lubricant which should be compatible with everything. I've also read elsewhere that a silicon based Caliper lubricant should be used... Anybody else have experience lubricating the caliper slides and rear of the brake pads with these specific items?? Thanks.

Bill Curlee

Ive NEVER had any issues with the products that I listed on my 98 Coupe or my 02 ZO6. I just rechecked the slider pins and boots last week when I was reinstalling my drive train and the grease and the boots was as good as new! There was about 10,000 miles on the pad swap.

Someone disagreed with me about the clips not wearing out and reusing them. That was a good comment.

Yes they should be changed during a pad swap but, if you dont get a set of pads that come with new clips,, if the old ones still fit tight and apply the proper pressure on the tops of the pads, I would uses them again.

BC

vinniez

i have a 2005 c6, i am doing a complete brake job, had rotor turned also. the new pads came with clips that were not on the car when i disasemblied the old brakes. the one for the front has what looks like 4 fingers on it. i can not figure out where to put this clip. this is my first vette so once i know i'll know. can anybody please tell me where to mount this clip? i pretty sure i know where to put the back clip, it fits in the window on the top of the caliper.

Bill Dearborn

There are two end clips that fit in the caliper bracket. The brake pad rides on these and they provide a smooth surface for the edge of the pad to slide across. There is a thing that is sort of flat and is spring loaded, it goes inside the caliper and pushes the pads into the caliper bracket when the caliper is closed. I willl add some lubricant to the end clips since it doesn't hurt to make it easier for the pads to slide on the clips. I use high temp antiseize compound. One other thing that can be done to the pads is to use a grinder to grind off the sharp edge that is made when the pad backing plate is stamped out of a sheet metal. When the brakes are applied these sharp edges dig into the clip on the trailing edge of the pad and can restrict its movement. Probably not necessary on a street driven car but on a track car its one of those every little bit helps deals.

Bill

vinniez

thank you for your help, i will complete the job tomorrow.