2001 Starting problems
05-26-2012, 01:28 PM
#1
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2001 Starting problems
I own a 2001 Corvette Convertible which we purchased new. Yesterday the Vette would not start. The starter would not engage when I turned the key. The instrument lights worked. The horn, lights and locks worked but the trunk and hatch lock would not work. I disconnected the negative battery terminal and reconnected and the car started fine. I started it several times but when I let it sit for an hour it would not start, engage the starter, trunk and convertible hatch lock did not work. Again disconnected the negative battery terminal and reconnected and it started fine. Let sit an hour and same problem again. The battery appears fine but I put it on a charger for several hours but it turns the engine fine with no issues. Any ideas?
05-26-2012, 01:33 PM
#3
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I did not notice any flashing security light but I can check. I looked for anything out of the ordinary. I does seem to indicate some sort of security measure but don't know what that would be.
05-26-2012, 02:46 PM
#5
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When you post get codes from dic do you mean the codes should be on the display or something else?
Last edited by ezzrider; 05-26-2012 at 02:51 PM.
05-26-2012, 03:25 PM
#6
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Ok I figured out how to get to the codes. I had to disconnect and reconnect the negative battery terminal to get the code info working. The codes flash so fast it was difficult. All of the codes had an H behind them which I read is a history code that has been corrected but the first codes that flashed up were 28 TCS C1248H C1254H, C1296H and U1000H; 58SDM U1000H, U1016H, U1040H and U1064H; AO LDCM B2244, 2206, 2284, 2282, 2264, U1255, 1064, 1016, 1096. I let it go to manual mode and reset all the codes. Hopefully then the next failure the most recent codes with pop up. Opps maybe I should not have reset the codes?
Last edited by ezzrider; 05-26-2012 at 03:29 PM.
05-26-2012, 03:44 PM
#7
Le Mans Master
Clearing all the codes is good so now you can see which ones pop up again if the problem returns. I didn't see the P1631 or B2721 which are related to the Security light coming on - so it doesn't look like a PASS key issue.
05-26-2012, 04:43 PM
#8
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Ok had same issue again after resetting all the old codes. The new codes are: 58SDM - U1000H, U1064H; AO LDCM - U1064H; A1 RDCM - U1064H; A6 SCM - U1255H; BO RFA - U1000H and U1064H. That is all the new codes.
05-27-2012, 09:38 AM
#9
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EDIT: If it starts up fine with no issues after charging, you could have dead or dying cells in the battery, or your alternator isn't charging it while the car is running therefor draining it to a state where all these codes are repopulated due to low voltage. I'm no expert, but I do know these things are VERY picky about having proper voltage levels maintained.
Last edited by LawdoG247; 05-27-2012 at 09:44 AM.
05-27-2012, 06:56 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Has the car been garaged for awhile? Sounds like a weak battery to me, you should have the battery and alternator tested for free at your local Autozone. Either that or dirty/loose chassis grounds not allowing optimum current flow. It's hard to believe both door control modules failed simultaneously!
EDIT: If it starts up fine with no issues after charging, you could have dead or dying cells in the battery, or your alternator isn't charging it while the car is running therefor draining it to a state where all these codes are repopulated due to low voltage. I'm no expert, but I do know these things are VERY picky about having proper voltage levels maintained.
EDIT: If it starts up fine with no issues after charging, you could have dead or dying cells in the battery, or your alternator isn't charging it while the car is running therefor draining it to a state where all these codes are repopulated due to low voltage. I'm no expert, but I do know these things are VERY picky about having proper voltage levels maintained.
05-27-2012, 07:15 PM
#11
Race Director
Sounds to me like you need a new battery. I had a similar issue with another Chevy not too long ago.
05-27-2012, 10:53 PM
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Well I can get a new battery and see if that corrects the problem. If nothing else I probably need a new one anyway. Strange though the current battery turns over the engine fast after the battery disconnect routine.
05-28-2012, 07:35 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
Have you measured the no load voltage? No load voltage is what you measure across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected.
It's well documented that the electronics in the C5 do not function correctly if the no load battery voltage gets below 12.5 volts.
Dash guages cannot tell you the state of health of the battery. They tell you the state of health of the charging system. Many of the electronics in the C5 do their thing before the engine starts so having adequate voltage after the engine starts often is of no help.
Charge the battery to full charge. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts across the posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. If you cannot charge the battery to at least 12.7 volts it's on its way out..
It's well documented that the electronics in the C5 do not function correctly if the no load battery voltage gets below 12.5 volts.
Dash guages cannot tell you the state of health of the battery. They tell you the state of health of the charging system. Many of the electronics in the C5 do their thing before the engine starts so having adequate voltage after the engine starts often is of no help.
Charge the battery to full charge. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts across the posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. If you cannot charge the battery to at least 12.7 volts it's on its way out..
Last edited by ezzrider; 05-28-2012 at 08:19 AM.
05-28-2012, 08:21 AM
#14
Race Director
Older engines used to run on the alternator alone, and the battery was used strictly for starting the engine, after which the alternator took over and the battery was no longer in use. You could actually pull the battery out of a car that was already started and drive away with no problems.
Last edited by Corvette_Ed; 05-28-2012 at 10:42 AM.
05-28-2012, 09:48 AM
#15
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Starting an engine and keeping one running are two entirely different events. With modern cars, the computer requires power from both the battery and the alternator to run properlly. If the battery runs low the computer and its various connections no longer have the energy required for everything to function, so some functions just stop working. The Chevy I mentioned would only run on 3 cylinders when the battery went bad because it did not have enough power to ignite all of them.
Older engines used to run on the alternator alone, and the battery was used strictly for starting the engine, after which the alternator took over and the battery was no longer in use. You could actually pull the battery out of a car that was already started and drive away with no problems.
Older engines used to run on the alternator alone, and the battery was used strictly for starting the engine, after which the alternator took over and the battery was no longer in use. You could actually pull the battery out of a car that was already started and drive away with no problems.
05-28-2012, 02:31 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Well I installed a new battery and still have the same not starting issue after sitting about one hour. The new error codes are 58 SDM - U1000H and U1064H; BO RFA - U1000H and U10064H. Looks like these errors relate to communicating with the BCM. Since the new battery did get rid of the door codes what is that telling me? By the way this is a convertible and in the past some water has leaked into the inside of the car after heavy rains when not in the garage (dried out next day). Think I may have some sort of corrosion in some wires? Where do I start to look?
Last edited by ezzrider; 05-28-2012 at 03:27 PM.
05-28-2012, 06:47 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Since the codes related to the doors went away, the old battery was most likely problematic.
In the passenger foot well there is a toe kick that lifts out to expose the IP fuse box and the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM Electronic board is inside a large silver box to the left of the fuse box.
Inspect the box for any kind of indication that the box has gotten wet. Stains from water or white oxidation on the box are two things to look for.
If you find indicarions of water then most likely the BCM board has similar oxidation on it that needs to be cleaned up. Post back what you find.
If there is no indication that the BCM got wet we can move onto grounds.
Inspect the
In the passenger foot well there is a toe kick that lifts out to expose the IP fuse box and the Body Control Module (BCM). The BCM Electronic board is inside a large silver box to the left of the fuse box.
Inspect the box for any kind of indication that the box has gotten wet. Stains from water or white oxidation on the box are two things to look for.
If you find indicarions of water then most likely the BCM board has similar oxidation on it that needs to be cleaned up. Post back what you find.
If there is no indication that the BCM got wet we can move onto grounds.
Inspect the
05-28-2012, 07:50 PM
#18
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St. Jude Donor '11
Just for the heck of it...there is a 10 pin connector located near the battery on the fender side. Disconnect it and check for a burned looking mark around one of pins(the female side of the connector) it may cause problems sometimes , ie. start/not start/start/not start...just a shot in the dark but it may be your problem...it was mine
05-28-2012, 08:30 PM
#19
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Just for the heck of it...there is a 10 pin connector located near the battery on the fender side. Disconnect it and check for a burned looking mark around one of pins(the female side of the connector) it may cause problems sometimes , ie. start/not start/start/not start...just a shot in the dark but it may be your problem...it was mine
Last edited by ezzrider; 05-28-2012 at 08:47 PM.
05-29-2012, 01:07 AM
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St. Jude Donor '11
I will take a closer look tomorrow and report back...
Last edited by Yello95; 05-29-2012 at 01:14 AM.