FAST 90 intake manifold crack
12-01-2012, 08:07 AM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
This morning I finally, after millions of adjustments, got it going. One trick that I learned was that lower intake manifold gaskets MUST be changed.
JB Weld is great!
Now idle is normal, no error codes, runs normally. Time will show if this was long lasting fix.
Thank you everyone for support and advice.
JB Weld is great!
Now idle is normal, no error codes, runs normally. Time will show if this was long lasting fix.
Thank you everyone for support and advice.
05-02-2015, 07:05 PM
#23
Team Owner
Might want to PM the op and ask. Doesn't look like he frequents the forum, last activity 2/15.
05-03-2015, 09:59 AM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
since I made the fix I haven´t had any issues with the intake. Glassfibre and JB weld work's great if you make 2x bigger "PATCH" than the hole or crack is. Otherwise suction forces will damage the repair.
09-24-2015, 06:49 PM
#25
Melting Slicks
what JB weld did you use?
I have a crack in mine and used JB Weld Plasticweld witch failed, I sanded it and installed fiberglass mesh also let it setup for 24 hours before installing it but the stuff didnt bond well to the intake, going to give repairing it another try if it dont last i guess a new lower section will be bought
fast wants $355 for a new lower part # 146301
I have a crack in mine and used JB Weld Plasticweld witch failed, I sanded it and installed fiberglass mesh also let it setup for 24 hours before installing it but the stuff didnt bond well to the intake, going to give repairing it another try if it dont last i guess a new lower section will be bought
fast wants $355 for a new lower part # 146301
09-24-2015, 07:45 PM
#26
Tech Contributor
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I have always had success with the regular JB weld:
http://www.grainger.com/product/J-B-...0924234058%3As
When I port the FAST 90, I use the JB Weld above to fill in certain areas inside the manifold so I can cut it back further without having too thin of an area remaining.
That JB weld always holds if the area is clean and oil free.
BC
http://www.grainger.com/product/J-B-...0924234058%3As
When I port the FAST 90, I use the JB Weld above to fill in certain areas inside the manifold so I can cut it back further without having too thin of an area remaining.
That JB weld always holds if the area is clean and oil free.
BC
09-24-2015, 07:58 PM
#27
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
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these manifolds work well on n/a setups and still end up cracking every so often, I can't see why some people defend them so much in boosted applications especially on mild to mid level boost builds where the stock intake will easily make the power they are after yet is much stronger
09-24-2015, 09:46 PM
#28
Instructor
these manifolds work well on n/a setups and still end up cracking every so often, I can't see why some people defend them so much in boosted applications especially on mild to mid level boost builds where the stock intake will easily make the power they are after yet is much stronger
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146174
7 ft lbs and 8hp. I don't care what you can find under the curve, it still isn't worth a grand IMO
Last edited by 175rgr; 09-24-2015 at 09:56 PM.
09-25-2015, 10:42 AM
#29
Drifting
Agreed. I'm a firm hater of FAST or any aftermarket intake manifolds (Unless you are going for a Race only sheet metal manifold). It pains me to see people blow 1500-2000 dollars for 15 rear wheel hp when the stock intake manifold will hold up to tons of boost and abuse and make damn good power while it's at it.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146174
7 ft lbs and 8hp. I don't care what you can find under the curve, it still isn't worth a grand IMO
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146174
7 ft lbs and 8hp. I don't care what you can find under the curve, it still isn't worth a grand IMO
. I understand the power can be made with a stock manifold with boost, but for the LSX application, this manifold is one that has been sought out for years.
09-25-2015, 07:10 PM
#30
Race Director
Agreed. I'm a firm hater of FAST or any aftermarket intake manifolds (Unless you are going for a Race only sheet metal manifold). It pains me to see people blow 1500-2000 dollars for 15 rear wheel hp when the stock intake manifold will hold up to tons of boost and abuse and make damn good power while it's at it.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146174
7 ft lbs and 8hp. I don't care what you can find under the curve, it still isn't worth a grand IMO
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=146174
7 ft lbs and 8hp. I don't care what you can find under the curve, it still isn't worth a grand IMO
I sold my FAST 90 setup, which really worked great NA, when I installed the blower. Went back to LS6 stock setup. Made money on that one, minus the busted install.
09-28-2015, 07:20 PM
#31
Pro
Broken Intake
How wrong can man go???
After battery change and short circuit I posted to forum and asked help because of MAF, bad battery and bad idle.
Time has passed as well as some $$$ and I changed MAF and TPS sensors hoping that it would help. Same symptom remains. When starting engine it won't start but only gives a "promoise of 2 seconds".
Now I got new MAP sensor and that's why I took off intake manifold to install it.
To my big surprice I found that the bottom part of intake manifold that is plastic is broken.
There is a 10" long and 1,5" wide crack on the bottom of the plastic part of intake.
Obviously it results an air leakage.
I was able to separate metallic top part of intake and plastic (PVC?) bottom part of intake.
I am not familiar with LS1 and I need help and advice how to fix the damaged plastic bottom part.
Please advice!
Cheers
Jan
After battery change and short circuit I posted to forum and asked help because of MAF, bad battery and bad idle.
Time has passed as well as some $$$ and I changed MAF and TPS sensors hoping that it would help. Same symptom remains. When starting engine it won't start but only gives a "promoise of 2 seconds".
Now I got new MAP sensor and that's why I took off intake manifold to install it.
To my big surprice I found that the bottom part of intake manifold that is plastic is broken.
There is a 10" long and 1,5" wide crack on the bottom of the plastic part of intake.
Obviously it results an air leakage.
I was able to separate metallic top part of intake and plastic (PVC?) bottom part of intake.
I am not familiar with LS1 and I need help and advice how to fix the damaged plastic bottom part.
Please advice!
Cheers
Jan