Airbag light stays on. Turns off intermittenly, then back on again..
10-13-2014, 01:17 AM
#1
Airbag light stays on. Turns off intermittenly, then back on again..
Anyone else having (or HAVE HAD) this problem, with their c5? Only had mine 2 months...
Airbag light stays mostly on, but DOES turn off intermittently for a short amount of time. common problem? or...............
The guy who owned the car before me apparently had some electrical work done. I think he had a booming stereo system in there (although taking everything but the head unit with him), where he 'may' have messed up a wire or something.......
This week my car will be at the dealership getting the instrument cluster lens replaced. I figured this would be a perfect time to try and figure out what's up...........
Since the front of the dash will be off anyway (to put the new lens in), I'm thinking of just getting rid of the light somehow from behind the cluster, and calling it a day......... the heck with it......
It IS 'just a light', right?? ..........or isn't it?
Airbag light stays mostly on, but DOES turn off intermittently for a short amount of time. common problem? or...............
The guy who owned the car before me apparently had some electrical work done. I think he had a booming stereo system in there (although taking everything but the head unit with him), where he 'may' have messed up a wire or something.......
This week my car will be at the dealership getting the instrument cluster lens replaced. I figured this would be a perfect time to try and figure out what's up...........
Since the front of the dash will be off anyway (to put the new lens in), I'm thinking of just getting rid of the light somehow from behind the cluster, and calling it a day......... the heck with it......
It IS 'just a light', right?? ..........or isn't it?
Last edited by JayTee72; 10-13-2014 at 01:20 AM.
10-13-2014, 01:47 AM
#2
The SIR system (air bags) sets codes for problems/faults.
Have you pulled the codes????
Here is how to pull and post codes:
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Post ALL your codes including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. If you have any Unnnn codes then list the sensor under which the Unnnn code appears. For example 28-TCS U1016.
The same Unnnn codes can appear under multiple sensors and it is helpful to know which sensor the Unnnn code is associated with.
With the codes you stand a chance of determining what is wrong........... Pull and post the codes....
Have you pulled the codes????
Here is how to pull and post codes:
OR
http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php
Post ALL your codes including the H or C or HC that follows each 5 character code. If you have any Unnnn codes then list the sensor under which the Unnnn code appears. For example 28-TCS U1016.
The same Unnnn codes can appear under multiple sensors and it is helpful to know which sensor the Unnnn code is associated with.
With the codes you stand a chance of determining what is wrong........... Pull and post the codes....
Great info. I've never done that before but I can learn.... I'll try to do that tomorrow and see what I come up with, and post them....MUCH appreciated..........
BTW, I really wouldn't mind it if you posted THIS ~~~~~~~~~>
along with your response to me.. lololI just don't know these things........... but thanks again....
10-13-2014, 01:55 AM
#3
Good to know...
10-13-2014, 05:27 PM
#4
Here are the codes I just pulled:
10-PCM - P1431 H
- P1626 H
28 - TCS NO CODES
40 BCM - B0432 H
- B0502 H
- B0503 H
- B0507 H
- B0508 H
- B2482 H
- B2527 H
- B2588 H
- B2592 H
- B2593 H
- B2721 H
- U1255 H
- U1016 H
- U1096 H
58-SDM - B0022 H
- B0026 H C
- B1001 H
- U1000 H
- U1031 H
- U1016 H
- U1040 H
- U1096 H
- U1064 H
60 IPC - - U1160H
AO-LDCM - B2282 H
- B2284 H
- B2262 H
- B2264 H
- U1255 H
- U1064 H
- U1016 H
- U1096 H
A1-RDCM - B2283 H
- B2285 H
- B2263 H
- B2265 H
- U1255 H
- U1064 H
- U1016 H
- U1096 H
BO-RFA - U1096 H
- U1064 H
10-13-2014, 06:08 PM
#5
Has the battery been out of the car recently????
If not you need to have the battery tested. The LDCM and RDCM codes are indicative of a significant battery issue. Weak or bad battery or loose or corroded battery cables including the one at the starter.
The are far too many codes listed to determine what issues the car has that are real and not induced by low battery voltage.
The codes listed under SDM are related to the airbag light but one or more of those can be set by incorrect voltage.
If you have a Digital Multi Meter you can read the No Load battery voltage. No Load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. Many C5 electrical systems fail to work correctly with a No Load voltage of 12.5 or less. The car will start with 12.2 volts or less but the electrical systems will NOT be happy. Don't bother with the dash gauge voltages. Those report the state of health of the charging system and NOT the state of health of the battery. A good battery fully charged will have a No load voltage of 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more.....
Once you have a KNOWN good battery, clear the codes and take the car for a drive. See the video above for how to clear codes. When you return from the ride pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you may need to use the reset button to clear any messages displayed in the DIC. Then pull codes as before and post them here. Those codes that return are what need to be addressed.
If not you need to have the battery tested. The LDCM and RDCM codes are indicative of a significant battery issue. Weak or bad battery or loose or corroded battery cables including the one at the starter.
The are far too many codes listed to determine what issues the car has that are real and not induced by low battery voltage.
The codes listed under SDM are related to the airbag light but one or more of those can be set by incorrect voltage.
If you have a Digital Multi Meter you can read the No Load battery voltage. No Load voltage is the voltage measured across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected. Many C5 electrical systems fail to work correctly with a No Load voltage of 12.5 or less. The car will start with 12.2 volts or less but the electrical systems will NOT be happy. Don't bother with the dash gauge voltages. Those report the state of health of the charging system and NOT the state of health of the battery. A good battery fully charged will have a No load voltage of 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more.....
Once you have a KNOWN good battery, clear the codes and take the car for a drive. See the video above for how to clear codes. When you return from the ride pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you may need to use the reset button to clear any messages displayed in the DIC. Then pull codes as before and post them here. Those codes that return are what need to be addressed.
10-13-2014, 08:55 PM
#6
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St. Jude Donor '08
When you leave your car at the Stealership, just leave them your CREDIT CARD and permission to charge what ever they want!
Thats what its going to feel like.
Have the battery tested. If nothing else, charge it, clear the DTCs and see what comes back..
Clear the DTCs and see if the air bag stuff pops back up. Go from that point.
BC
Thats what its going to feel like.
Have the battery tested. If nothing else, charge it, clear the DTCs and see what comes back..
Clear the DTCs and see if the air bag stuff pops back up. Go from that point.
BC
10-13-2014, 10:23 PM
#8
Oh yeah, I'm only gonna get them to test the battery, and maybe the alternator, then go from there. Eliminate that. THAT'S something I can't do. I don't have the tools.