anarchy99

So I replaced the engine in my 02 z06, long story short, I bought it with a blown up engine, it was missing engine top end, just easier to buy an engine from eBay from an 01 z06. I tossed my heads on with upgraded valve springs, freshened up the inside, tossed a new Maggie setup and hood on and we are off to the races. Well, the tuner was tuning it and kept having an issue with the whole car basically powering off and powering back on. It happens so fast you barely even notice it but obviously he was scared to do a full boost tuning pass for fear it would happen an the fuel pump would shut off also. I've used the wiring guide and checked all 14 grounds, pulled them apart, cleaned them with sand paper, etc, and re-secured them. The speedo is not working, I'm not sure if it was working before or not but its not working in the HUD either. Sometimes I look up and the other gauges aren't working either. I turn it off and turn it back on and they all come back but the speedo. When I try to read the codes in the DIC using the turn the key on hit reset hold options trick, it never goes back to the odometer when I hit reset, it just keeps scrolling across the screen low tire press rr, low tire press lr, service column lock. The column lock was serviced by the previous owner, as the steering column doesn't lock and the little plug in module is behind the panel under the steering wheel. I'm lost on this one guys, any help would be awesome... At this point I've got a rocket ship that I can't really beat on and that has issues I know I need to fix.

Sorry for the long winded post, but maybe someone will see A,B,C are wrong, it's definetly___________ that as a problem.

martysauto

Bad ignition switches cause all kinds of bizarre problems on c5's. Check all your grounds, the wiring at the starter and battery terminals. Check output voltage at the ignition switch with all loads on.

anarchy99

Is there anyway to replace that without going to the dealership?

Smoken1

Here are 3 posts about the Ignition switch:
Diagnose
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1568186703-post64.html
Removal
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571067145-post107.html
Repair
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html

anarchy99

I appreciate the help, the repair page doesn't open

Smoken1

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ch-repair.html

anarchy99

Thanks, Im going to pull the bcm and the ignition switch out this weekend and check them/clean them up... I'll report back and let everyone know how it goes.

anarchy99

Ok, so I removed the ignition switch and the contacts in the switch were burnt in the same exact spots as in bill curlee's write up. I did the same fix as him, inspected the connectors, at the back of the switch also and they were fine. The BCM looked brand new inside it, no signs of any moisture etc. I have the corvettes of Houston lock bypass under the drivers knee bolster. I have re hooked up every thing and even unhooked the column lock bypass and re hooked the factory connector. I replaced the relay above the bcm as well with a brand new one.... Still says pull key wait 10 secs still says service engine soon. Won't let me read the codes when I try to pull them. It even just started showing a bunch of just jumbled numbers and letters in staid of the normal stuff in between the gauges.... Any ideas?

Bill Curlee

Read the voltage directly on the IPC fuse test points on top of the fuse. Its powered when the ignition switch is ON. It should read full battery voltage. If it LOW, that is likely the cause of the weird IPC readings

Another thing to look at is a serial data buss issue. To the LEFT of the BCM are two thin connectors. Those are the STAR Serial Data junctions.

Find the STAR connector with FOUR wires and pop the top off that connector. That will isolate the LDCM, RDCM and Seat Module from the rest of the serial data wires.

If that resolves the issue, let me know and I can help you resolve the problem. It usually is caused by poor connections in the door wiring harness power connector. the female pins in that door harness connector spread and make a poor connection. That corrupts the serial data buss and caused some very weird IPC issues.

Bill

anarchy99

Ok, I pulled fuse 25 waited 20 minutes or so and plugged it back in... It read normal on the screen in the dash... I was finally able to pull the codes also. Maybe listing them all may shed some light on the problems I'm having... Also, the pull key, wait 10 secs is still there.
10-PCM P0102 H C
P0500 C
P0801 H C
P1571 H
P1689 H
28-TCS C1241 H
C1277 H
C1282 H
C1287 H
C1288 H
C1296 H
40-BCM B0502 H
B0507 H
B2482 H
B2528 H
B2587 H
B2592 H
58-SDM B0026 H C
U1000 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
60-IPC no codes
80-RADIO no comm.
99-HVAC B0333 H C
AO-LDCM U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
A1-RDCM U1255 H
U1064 H
U1016 H
U1096 H
A6-SCM 01255 H
BO-RFA no codes no more codes

Bill Curlee

HOLY SHI$ BATMAN... CLEAR ALL those DTCs and see what comes back... Post what you get AFTER you clear ALL those DTCs

anarchy99

Yeah, I kinda figured that was a lot.... Go big right. I'll clear everything out first thing in the morning.

anarchy99

Cleared all the codes... Outside air temp sensor B0026 is still there and B0333 (airbag something or another is still there. Also service column lock is still showing up. I'm scratching my head on this one. Try to drive the car around tomorrow and see what it does or what pops back up. I wonder if I should just buy another column lock bypass setup.

anarchy99

I pulled the relay by the bcm and did the jumper wire setup between 87 and 30 on the relay... Still getting the wait 10 sec message and the service column lock messages. Should I do the lmc5 bypass? I'm assuming the corvettes of Houston bypass I've got isn't working properly anymore. Any thoughts?

BadMedcn

Anarchy99-

When I switched out my LS1 in my 2001 I began to develop crazy gremlins that would sweep the tach/speedo and all the analogs while driving on freeway at various speeds. ABS/TC codes, engine cut outs, rough running.......it was nuts. Checked wiring, grounds, BCM/ EBCM/PCM. The local shop kept it for 6 months and said they fixed it but by the time I got it home it had begun just as before. While looking around I happened to burn my hand on a very hot wire ( the engine had been off 24 hours!). Turns out that the LS2 I put in did not have (or they didn't use) a ground in driver's side rear of the block, so they wired everything that should have gone there into another wire and then into a ground on front right frame rail. THAT was the issue. A Mickey moused wiring setup in one single spot set off this debacle. My point? Before you do anything. Look at your wiring, grounds and harnesses used (or not used) when they transplanted the engine and make sure everything is as it should be. Then listen to Bill. Look first at anything recently done or wired.

anarchy99

engine harness is the factory one that came in the car. I checked all the grounds on the back of the heads, etc and the chassis grounds around the car. I'm going to unhook the stereo that's in it and see if there is any change... I doubt that would be an issue though... Who knows though. I would have gone hot and heavy on this but I've been busy with work work work lately but with everything slowing down over the holidays expect more to happen on this.

Bill Curlee

If I had to start ANYWHERE, I would isolate the serial data buss LDCM/RDCM and Seat Control Module (SCM) by finding the STAR connectors to the LEFT of the BCM.

Disconnect the top of the connector that contains FOUR WIRES. Pop off the top and see if the weird stuff stops.





You will have NO COMMS on those three modules but,,,,, It will tell me if any of the three are causing your issues. Those three are the most probolematic modules that cause this issue.

anarchy99

I'll pull the fuse tomorrow morning and see what it does. I do appreciate the help.

anarchy99

Update:

I pulled the cap off of the part shown in the pic above, the one with 4 wires going into it next to the BCM... Drove it around for about 10 minutes, no issues at all, ran pretty good. I'm guessing one of those 3 modules is the issue.

anarchy99

On a side note, I think I need to replace the VSS located on the transmission. I'm not getting anything at the gauge or the HUD. Anyone know the part number for a VSS for an 02 Z06?