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Clutch changing questions: rear main and clutch slave

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Old 11-11-2014, 09:50 PM
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Supercharged111
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Default Clutch changing questions: rear main and clutch slave

I had the clutch pedal sticking when I try to drive like a man and already tried a new GM master/slave back in April 2013 to no avail. Recently I scored a lightly used Spec Stage 1 aluminum clutch which is exactly what I'd been wanting to replace what I discovered today was an LS2 clutch with seemingly little use. Today I finally got the trans off and the clutch out (more fun now that I have long tubes) and found a couple items that concern me. This slave is only a year old and feels fine, but what is this that's trying to escape from the middle?



Also, I'm concerned about the moisture on the rear main seal. No biggie for me to fish this one out and sneak a new on in, but I have to wonder (since I now know this isn't the original clutch) if whoever did the work replaced it and improperly aligned that rear cover? Or is the rear main even leaking? That bottom left residue could be coming in from the oil cooler adapter block, it does appear that there is oil coming in past that plastic guard on the driver's side. Also, the ring around the seal is dry. But there are rogue drops of oil on the seal itself. However the flywheel is dry. It appears that the proper way to line up that rear plate requires oil pan removal and I'm not so sure I want to go that far simply because I suspect that plate might not be properly aligned. Here's a picture.



Sooner is better than later to get this all back together properly, I need to finish getting my garage in order so I can bring the Camaro in.
Old 11-12-2014, 12:43 AM
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neutron82
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if it were me I would replace the rear main and rear cover gasket... get the rear cover tool from saccitycorvette and you don't have to mess with the oil pan, it's a simple tool to use... to get the rear cover off you are going to have to loosen the bell housing and at least move it out of the way to get the 2 top bolts out of the rear cover... I would also get a new pilot bearing if you haven't replaced that... also a good time to check your torque tube bushings... besides all the time consuming work this is what I hate about these jobs, there ends up being lots more that could be replaced or upgraded while you are in there... I will go into a job with the intention of fixing one thing and then I'm up to my neck in stuff to do
Old 11-12-2014, 10:22 AM
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Supercharged111
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I don't know about that pilot bearing, the one time I tried doing one it was among my worst wrenching experiences. The tool never gets a good grip on them. I didn't realize the alignment tool made it unnecessary to mess with the pan. Where else can I get one? I'm hoping to find something locally as I'd really like to re-stab the drivetrain this weekend.
Old 11-12-2014, 10:43 AM
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saccity is the only place that sells their tool as far as I know, you might ask Christian if he can overnight it to you but it will cost more... I would do the pilot bearing too if it were me, no sense in not doing it since you're that far into it... I rented a blind hole puller from autozone and mine came out pretty easily

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