Oil pressure dropped (@20psi) loud ticking from motor (video)
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil pressure dropped (@20psi) loud ticking from motor (video)
Hey guys,
I have a 99 c5 with about 120k miles. There is a loud ticking noise coming from the passengers side head. I'm looking for input on what this could be. Lifter possibly?
It increases (in speed) with rpm and is very noticeable around 2100rpm
Mods:
Long tube headers
Cam
Patriot Extreme Valve Springs
Ti Retainers
Tune
Ls6 intake
Melling high volume oil pump
I also found oil on my throttle body, I put in a catch can today, I figured that was a common issue unrelated.
Oil pressure was around 40 (at operating temp) now it's at around 20. I noticed this today after installing new pcv valve and pcv catch can.
Oil level is full
Any advice is appreciated
Thanks
http://vid249.photobucket.com/albums...6_201720_1.mp4
Video (between 15-20 seconds it's the loudest)
I didn't want to let it heat up too much, but once it's about 200 degrees the oil pressure is around 20
I have a 99 c5 with about 120k miles. There is a loud ticking noise coming from the passengers side head. I'm looking for input on what this could be. Lifter possibly?
It increases (in speed) with rpm and is very noticeable around 2100rpm
Mods:
Long tube headers
Cam
Patriot Extreme Valve Springs
Ti Retainers
Tune
Ls6 intake
Melling high volume oil pump
I also found oil on my throttle body, I put in a catch can today, I figured that was a common issue unrelated.
Oil pressure was around 40 (at operating temp) now it's at around 20. I noticed this today after installing new pcv valve and pcv catch can.
Oil level is full
Any advice is appreciated
Thanks
http://vid249.photobucket.com/albums...6_201720_1.mp4
Video (between 15-20 seconds it's the loudest)
I didn't want to let it heat up too much, but once it's about 200 degrees the oil pressure is around 20
Last edited by About2Bite; 05-23-2015 at 03:25 PM.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
No pieces of metal. All springs and rockers look fine. A little bit of wear on the retainers but it may have been from the install.
Nothing looks to cause a concern.
Next I will drain the oil and see how that looks.
Any suggestions/ideas let me know.
Thanks
Nothing looks to cause a concern.
Next I will drain the oil and see how that looks.
Any suggestions/ideas let me know.
Thanks
#9
Drifting
I had the EXACT same sound 3 years ago after a quick high speed run merging onto the high in the hot summer heat. This was the result......
After many discussions, not on this forum, I believe oil was the culprit. That cam and lifters(although stock lifers) had been in my car for 3 years no problems. After a 3rd gear 6k rpm in 95* Florida weather, I had the exact "tick, tack, and clack" your hearing. A few lobes and lifters.
After many discussions, not on this forum, I believe oil was the culprit. That cam and lifters(although stock lifers) had been in my car for 3 years no problems. After a 3rd gear 6k rpm in 95* Florida weather, I had the exact "tick, tack, and clack" your hearing. A few lobes and lifters.
Last edited by ZZ06; 05-18-2015 at 03:06 PM.
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Obtain a MECHANICS STEPHOSCOPE and put the metal rod on top of the valve cover at each valve location. You WILL be able to PIN POINT the exact valve in question.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
From there you can concentrate on what that exact valve train is doing. Make sure that the rocker roller bearings are not or have not puked out the side of the trunions and the rocker has excessive slop.
If you want to take a quick look at the cam, you can remove the intake manifold and valve valley cover. That will allow you to most of the lobes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
From there you can concentrate on what that exact valve train is doing. Make sure that the rocker roller bearings are not or have not puked out the side of the trunions and the rocker has excessive slop.
If you want to take a quick look at the cam, you can remove the intake manifold and valve valley cover. That will allow you to most of the lobes.
#11
If your oil pressure is still low, my guess is that you've knocked a bearing out on the bottom end. There's nothing in the valvetrain (except maybe a cam bearing or damaged lifter bore, but unlikely) that would cause a drop in oil pressure. Noises have a way of transmitting through other components on a car, so what sounds like a top end noise could very easily be coming from the bottom end. I'd drain the oil through a paint filter into a bucket, also pull the oil filter off and cut it apart to inspect for bearing material.
Sorry dood
Sorry dood
#12
Drifting
If your oil pressure is still low, my guess is that you've knocked a bearing out on the bottom end. There's nothing in the valvetrain (except maybe a cam bearing or damaged lifter bore, but unlikely) that would cause a drop in oil pressure. Noises have a way of transmitting through other components on a car, so what sounds like a top end noise could very easily be coming from the bottom end. I'd drain the oil through a paint filter into a bucket, also pull the oil filter off and cut it apart to inspect for bearing material.
Sorry dood
Sorry dood
#13
Race Director
going dry for a second can create excessive wear in the bottom end fast, change your oil to cheap chevron 20-50w and see if the pressure returns and ticking goes away. if you have a spun bearing it will still clank even if pressure builds a bit.
20 psi is actually a bit higher than i've ever seen a spun bearing at operating temp
if it's 20 psi cold you have problems. bearings, oil pump etc.
unless something is jammed in your new oil pump a teardown is likely. were you spinning this engine up? like over the factory redline?
20 psi is actually a bit higher than i've ever seen a spun bearing at operating temp
if it's 20 psi cold you have problems. bearings, oil pump etc.
unless something is jammed in your new oil pump a teardown is likely. were you spinning this engine up? like over the factory redline?
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Has not seen over redline. I don't even get on it often and if I do I'll typically shift at 5k or so.
A few pics I took. I'm hoping to get to draining the oil in the next few days. I'll update with the status of that.
Video at bottom but quality is horrible.
I didn't want to let it heat up too much, but once it's about 200 degrees the oil pressure is around 20
Will do
A few pics I took. I'm hoping to get to draining the oil in the next few days. I'll update with the status of that.
Video at bottom but quality is horrible.
I didn't want to let it heat up too much, but once it's about 200 degrees the oil pressure is around 20
Obtain a MECHANICS STEPHOSCOPE and put the metal rod on top of the valve cover at each valve location. You WILL be able to PIN POINT the exact valve in question.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
From there you can concentrate on what that exact valve train is doing. Make sure that the rocker roller bearings are not or have not puked out the side of the trunions and the rocker has excessive slop.
If you want to take a quick look at the cam, you can remove the intake manifold and valve valley cover. That will allow you to most of the lobes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
From there you can concentrate on what that exact valve train is doing. Make sure that the rocker roller bearings are not or have not puked out the side of the trunions and the rocker has excessive slop.
If you want to take a quick look at the cam, you can remove the intake manifold and valve valley cover. That will allow you to most of the lobes.
Last edited by About2Bite; 05-18-2015 at 10:13 PM.
#15
Race Director
plugs look great
if you haven't been spinning the engine hard i'd almost be inclined to suspect that new oil pump...again...this is a guess.
moving to 20-50 is an inexpensive way to see if you can up the pressure and the effect that has on sound. if pressure comes up and it's still knocking that would not be a good sign
if the crank is not scorn and the rod is alright. in some engines you can just plastigauge a new bearing and file it to fit. older bmw guys who race often often see main bearings as annual maintenance.
worst thing you can do is run the engine hard or long term until you figure this out. might not have any substantial damage yet and if it's just one bearing it shouldn't be anything too crazy to replace
if you haven't been spinning the engine hard i'd almost be inclined to suspect that new oil pump...again...this is a guess.
moving to 20-50 is an inexpensive way to see if you can up the pressure and the effect that has on sound. if pressure comes up and it's still knocking that would not be a good sign
if the crank is not scorn and the rod is alright. in some engines you can just plastigauge a new bearing and file it to fit. older bmw guys who race often often see main bearings as annual maintenance.
worst thing you can do is run the engine hard or long term until you figure this out. might not have any substantial damage yet and if it's just one bearing it shouldn't be anything too crazy to replace
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks, I think once I change/look at the oil and pull the intake/valley cover I will have a better idea what things look like. I also plan on looking at it with the stethoscope mentioned above
The pressure increases with rpm. At 2800 rpm and 125 degree oil temp I see about 50 psi oil pressure right now.
I don't think my oil pressure is dangerously low it's just about half what it was. Which is strange. All I did was replace the PCV valve and add a catch can and then the oil pressure dropped in half. I changed nothing else.
The knock has been going on for a few weeks, the oil pressure issue just started this weekend.
The pressure increases with rpm. At 2800 rpm and 125 degree oil temp I see about 50 psi oil pressure right now.
I don't think my oil pressure is dangerously low it's just about half what it was. Which is strange. All I did was replace the PCV valve and add a catch can and then the oil pressure dropped in half. I changed nothing else.
The knock has been going on for a few weeks, the oil pressure issue just started this weekend.
#17
Race Director
are you sure the sensor is accurate? 50psi around 3000rpm is solid pressure is not even possible with a spun bearing...at least i don't see how it could be unless that pump just flows like gangbusters
did anything at all happen, change, feel different with how the car operates when this 20psi business popped up?
did anything at all happen, change, feel different with how the car operates when this 20psi business popped up?
Last edited by racebum; 05-19-2015 at 02:59 AM.
#18
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
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CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
hAfter a heads cam install on the 02Z,, I registered ZERO oil pressure! .. So,,,,,,,,,, I didnt have any abnormal noises and was optimistic that it was a sensor issue.
I put a mechanical gage in the FRONT sensor port (on the block near the Temp sensor) and found out I did have normal oil pressure. Try that,
BC
I put a mechanical gage in the FRONT sensor port (on the block near the Temp sensor) and found out I did have normal oil pressure. Try that,
BC
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Is this the front input to check oil pressure? Or is that a ground point?
Guess I'll pick this up while at harbor freight getting that stethoscope:
http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20p rovided
Guess I'll pick this up while at harbor freight getting that stethoscope:
http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-test-kit-98949.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20p rovided
Last edited by About2Bite; 05-19-2015 at 08:39 AM.