jumpinmeanz

OK! so, this weekend my buddy finished his H/C/I with wot box and i feel the need for more. here is what i have 04 z06 with 1 3/4" long tube, off road catless x pipe, borla cat back. now, you guys know how it is when your friend is faster hahaha (smack talking starts). Now, i'm was looking into full forged ls6 with a single turbo or f1a. however i want to build the car first to handle the boosted application. so i came across lunati 383 forged stroker kit for my internals, i have (on my shelf) a rst twin disk from mcleod, i want to also go with a rpm trans. I've only bounced the idea in my head and not sure if the rotating assembly is good. so my question is who makes good stuff that will be able to take a pounding over and over. voodoo cranks, callies rods, etc. also want are some good turbo combos for a street/strip set up? i know i should keep looking into it, however, i need experienced advice! i don't care how much horsepower the setup makes as thats not what i care about. my goal is to get my z into the low 11s, high 10s. thanks guys!

Z06_Trbl

What's your budget and horsepower goals?

That dictates everything...

jumpinmeanz

budget is moderate don't want to spend dumb money but don't want to cheap out the build either. i think 600+ whp should work as i don't not find a horsepower number really subjected to the 1/4 mile times i want to run.

goals:

boosted application
build supporting mods for the boost
hit 11's or 10's in the 1/4


i think I'm on the right track with building first then boosting. or buy a f1a and run the biggest pulley they have and wait for fireworks?

neutron82

an f1a is a big blower if you're only going for 600... you would not have to spin it hard at all to make that number and it would lag on the low end and is also harder to turn so it puts more stress on belts which leads to 8/10 rib upgrades, secondary drive, etc... you could easily make your power goals on a d1sc with a standard 6 rib belt... I would recommend a&a if you go for a centri blower, good group of guys and they can put together whatever you need

road pilot

If you are going to dragrace. Most sanction body's reguire safety
equip. If you think you will be in 10's--rollbar,fire suit, fire ext.,
certain parts of engine SFI. Like your harmonic balancer. ETC.
If you will have 600 rwhp, you can count on replacing the whole
drivetrain. Remember that Corvette built your car for 350 hp
not 5 or 600 hp.Have fun!

jumpinmeanz

yes i plan to do so. i have the drive train part under control i believe? correct me if I'm wrong. please! mcleod RST twin disk, billet drive shaft bushings, upgraded drive shaft and either a built rpm level 5 trans or a built TR6060 trans and rear c6 z06 gears, upgraded half shafts. Also the bracing the trans and urethane mounts. should i be looking at more? also keep in mind this is going to be a long term build. I've seen a guy at the track with his turbo c5 and he would not launch it hard because he didn't want to break anything as it was stockish. i never got the whole strap a blower or turbo on a car make high power a couple of times then break everything around it, then claim the car is junk. I've had the car two years. took it to the track as much as i could.. did some reviewing on what i would need to get where i want to be and well i think its time to build up to that. life is about setting goals right!

175rgr

I hope your budget is 15-20k cause it's going to take all of that to build a bulletproof setup that you can beat on at a drag strip. Drag strips are extremely hard on components especially when you start talking power adders such as FI or Nitrous.

If you are really serious about this, and understand the money it's going to take, go ask this thread over in the FI section AFTER you have compiled a very organized wish list. Then you can ask people to look it over and their opinion on what they would change, nobody is going to want to make a list for you because they aren't you and don't know exactly what you want. Doing this will also help you get a rough estimate on a budget for the build.

You compile a list like the one below and ask how does this look and what would you change over in the FI section and your questions will be answered to a T. (below isn't a wish list, it's my current setup, hence the reason there are stock parts in there, your list will obviously have whatever built components there).


Engine:

• Texas Speed LQ9 Iron block 408 ci stroker 9.5:1
◦ Callies Crank
◦ Callies Rods
◦ Wiseco Pistons

• Full ARP Bolt Package + Head Studs

• L92/LS3 Heads (unported)
◦ PRC .650 Lift Springs
◦ 7.400 Comp Magnum Push-rods part #:7638
• LS3 Intake (unported)
◦ 90mm DBW Throttle Body (LS2)
◦ Speed Density (No MAF)

• Comp Cams (Texas Speed) blower cam
◦ 232 242 .595 .610 114 LSA

• Innovators West Crank Pulley 8 Rib
◦ 10% Overdrive 8.00

• BPRE7 Plugs gapped @ .025

• Kooks + GHL Exhaust (No Cats)
◦ 2” Primary, 3” collector, 3” mid-pipe, 2 ½” Axle Back

• Meziere Electric Water Pump

• Dewitt’s custom C5 Radiator

Blower Kit:

• A&A Corvette C5 Kit w/Procharger Bracket

• D1SC Procharger
◦ 3.85 Pulley
◦ Cartek Flip Drive
◦ Mondo BOV

• Methanol
◦ Alky control Kit
◦ Dual Nozzle

Fuel System:

• A&A Corvette Fuel System
◦ Secondary Pump Setup
◦ No Boost-a-pump
◦ Boost Regulated FPR

• Factory Fuel Rails
◦ Deka 80lb Injectors

Drive-line:

• Clutch
◦ Monster Stage 5 single disk
◦ Tick-shift Remote Clutch Bleeder

• Transmission
◦ Factory M12 T56
◦ DTE Trans/Rear Diff Brace

• Rear Diff
◦ Factory Rear Diff 3.46 Gears
◦ Factory Half Shafts
◦ DTE Trans/Rear Diff Brace

Chassis/Suspension:

• GM T1 Sway Bars
• GM C6 z06 Shocks
• ¼” Thick Aftermarket Tunnel Plate
• Auto-power 4pt Roll cage

Wheels/Tires

• C5 z06 Wheels
◦ Front: 17x9.5
▪ Offset +54mm
▪ Backspc 187.35m
▪ Tire: 265/40
◦ Rear: 18x10.5
▪ Offset +58mm
▪ Backspc 204.05
▪ Tire: 305/35
• Nitto 555RII

Interior:

• Triple A-Pillar Gauge Pod
• Autometer ES Fuel Pressure
• Autometer ESS Boost
• PLX Wideband

Misc:

• s/c belt: K080565
• oil filter: PF46
• oil: Valvoline VR1
• plugs: BPRE7 NGK

175rgr

I just read your post again and seen that you stated you don't care how much power it makes you just care about a time slip. In that case you can start your research at the link below. It doesn't take 600 whp to get you to your goal, and your goal is very very attainable by sticking with a nasty N/A setup and a lot more cost efficient.

If you are stuck on Forced Induction, then +$6500 to the price of your build.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...uick-list.html

jumpinmeanz

your car must be extremely fun! sounds like you've been through most of the hoops to get where you need to be. how do you like the iron block? i herd it makes the car front heavy?

jumpinmeanz

thanks 175rgr! however I'm pretty stuck on the whole bigger centre or single turbo as around here nobody really does it. Also, i drool every time i see a forced induction corvette and well i think i might go that route.

zeevette

I'm sorry I went from a fantastic H/C/I setup (483/432) to FI, even though above 100 mph or so; the blower is a rush. I should have done a better job on the drivetrain $$$ wise, because I still have some stock driveline parts that're stock. OTOH, I've never raced the car, even on the street, with the exception of a couple of high speed roll-ons.

Bill Curlee

Some things that I didnt see in any of the UP-GRADE list that must be improved for reliability:

This is stuff that I learned to INCLUDE and has been very benficial in my MEASLEY 450 RWHP 02 ZO6

ARP fastenres Which include, ARP Head Studs z(Trust me on that MOD!! ) Its a life saver! , ARP Dampener bolt. ARP connecting rod bolts (If your doing the entire rotating assy)

Torque Tube. MUST refresh the couplers and inspect the bearings and replace if necessary.

Engine and Transmission mounts: At those HP levels,, you should go Poly. I added a PFADT Trans Mount and that helps steady the differential..

CONTACT ECS for additional drive train mods and safety equipment. They have excellent drivetrain modifications for bullet proof drivetrains.

Before you decide on headsand cam,,,, Contact Tony MAMO. He has some PROVEN killer stuff!

Valve train: Ditch the lifters and lifter buckets and install a quality set of LINKED LIFTERS and thicker pushrods.

If your block isnt machined for a timing chain dampener from the factory, have t machined and install a timing chain dampener! My 02 was and here is the dampener:



Oil Pump = MELLING HIGH Pressure
Best timing chain that you can get!

jumpinmeanz

some good info thank you! sorry guys I've been really busy with work the long replies. I'm taking all the info in and adjusting my build sheet according.