Can my car stall from ignition switch problems??
08-29-2015, 01:50 PM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
While I was down under my car, I took the time to check to see if the connector itself was good. Connector has a great ground, but im curious as to what you guys think about having a 1.0v drop from the battery. In the aircraft world that's nothing, but i wanted to hear some opinions.
08-29-2015, 02:00 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
Also something i just checked for ***** and giggles. I wanted to measure the battery with no cables and it read 12.1-12.2 which was lower than what it measured last week at 12.86. But i digress. So i installed the cables and measured again and it dropped to 11.8. Granted i was doing some troubleshooting with the FP last week with key "ON" so maybe that explains the loss i have from the previous reading. Interesting to me nonetheless. Thought is share
08-29-2015, 06:29 PM
#23
Drifting
Thread Starter
no thoughts?
08-29-2015, 09:10 PM
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
At 12.2 with no load (battery cable disconnected) the battery is heavily discharged.
A fully charged battery should be 12.6v or more.
If the battery is
12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained
The voltage drop when you connected the battery cables is expected since there are several things on the C5 Electrical system that will immediately place a load on the battery. BCM, under hood light are 2 that immediately come to mind.
Suggest that you charge the battery fully before doing any further testing/diagnosis.
You may also have something in the car that is placing a parasitic drain on the battery other than the usual things. Here is a cut and paste from a Bill Curlee post I saved from some time back:
The correct BCM current draw should be 20 Milliamps or less. Most C5 run around 25ma
but I have see some as low as 15 ma.
Leave the engine compartment fuse box for last and start with the passengers compartment
box first. Pull the power seat breakers FIRST! The power seats have a tendancy stay on
and cause this issue.
Also pull the fuses for the Bose system amp.
Examine the car in the dark for lights staying ON.
Once you prove the interior circuits good,,, check the headlight circuits, and then test
the current draw of the alternator.
Look at my electrical stickey. I think I cover this in detail in that post.
There are several COMMON things that cause excessive current draw
-Seat multifunction switch & Lumbar Switch
- Bose Amp relay stuck on
- Alternator didoes bad and drawing current
- Headlight control module bad
- Interior light on (check in the dark)
- Added aftermarket accessory not shutting off
Perhaps check some of the items he lists to see if they are adding to the drain.
A fully charged battery should be 12.6v or more.
If the battery is
12.5 = 85% charged
12.4 = 65%
12.3 = 50%
12.2 = 35%
12.1 = drained
The voltage drop when you connected the battery cables is expected since there are several things on the C5 Electrical system that will immediately place a load on the battery. BCM, under hood light are 2 that immediately come to mind.
Suggest that you charge the battery fully before doing any further testing/diagnosis.
You may also have something in the car that is placing a parasitic drain on the battery other than the usual things. Here is a cut and paste from a Bill Curlee post I saved from some time back:
The correct BCM current draw should be 20 Milliamps or less. Most C5 run around 25ma
but I have see some as low as 15 ma.
Leave the engine compartment fuse box for last and start with the passengers compartment
box first. Pull the power seat breakers FIRST! The power seats have a tendancy stay on
and cause this issue.
Also pull the fuses for the Bose system amp.
Examine the car in the dark for lights staying ON.
Once you prove the interior circuits good,,, check the headlight circuits, and then test
the current draw of the alternator.
Look at my electrical stickey. I think I cover this in detail in that post.
There are several COMMON things that cause excessive current draw
-Seat multifunction switch & Lumbar Switch
- Bose Amp relay stuck on
- Alternator didoes bad and drawing current
- Headlight control module bad
- Interior light on (check in the dark)
- Added aftermarket accessory not shutting off
Perhaps check some of the items he lists to see if they are adding to the drain.
09-04-2015, 11:10 AM
#25
Drifting
Thread Starter
Received the new sensor yesterday and got it installed this morning along with the starter. All torqued to specs. Wanted to check and see if the FP would kick over after installation of the new sensor. Viola! Turned the key OFF and ON several times (with some pauses in between) and the pump cycled for 2sec each time. That is a good sign considering it was HALF the time before once I took notice. Should be able to ship the header today, but as soon as it returns and I get it installed, will update with how she runs.