ZZ06

Question in the title. Car has been progressively been getting worse with random cut outs. Symptoms that im aware of currently. Hard starts, car cuts out while driving i get a quick CEL, both rpm and speedometer needles jump a hair, the oil pressure guage drops to 0, and when the car comes back to life it idles high. 1600-1800rpm. This all simultaneously happens and it happens in a sec or 2 tops. Car comes back to life as if nothing is wrong. The ONLY code i recieved bfore was a P0514?? I think?? Even then its only showed twice. Not at all today. NO CODES. Not even when it happens on the spot. Where to start?

ZZ06

Thank you for the links. Ive seen bills ignition switch thread b4. I was just skimming through most of it as i didnt have a problem then. Ok, i will have to tackle that another weekend. Im still finishing up the AC repair this weekend. Getting it vacuumed as we speak. I will try my other key and see how that fairs.

ZZ06

Ok wow, my victory dance was very short lived after seeing the fruits of my hard labor of changing my AC components. All is well there! Very cold AC. However, while letting the car idle for a couple minutes, it just died. It then spit out a whole mess of codes to which it has never done. All "H".

28-TCS
U1016

40 BCM
U1096
1016

58 SDM
U1016
1040
1096
1064

60 IPC
U1064
1040
1176
1088
1160

80 Radio
U1064
1016
1096

HVAC
U1064
1096
1160

BO-RFA
U1000
1255
1064
1096
1016

Now im really lost and confused It did this twice and upon the second time I had a dead start. No fire. looked at codes again and saw no comm for the PCM. Then the dash ding goes off and im able to start the car. gremlins have finally attacked me. It seems as if battery voltage is low. I know our cars don't like low voltage. Will have to check voltage across the battery.

ZZ06

Also out of curiosity, what are your guys voltage in the heat with AC ON and OFF? Mine today was low with it on, and not exactly stellar with it off. AC ON was 13.2. It would drop to 13.0 at a stop with a blinker on.. With AC OFF, it was 13.4, 13.5.

ZZ06

No the carpet isn't wet. I just got back from having the battery tested. I checked with a multimeter just for good measure before its test anyway to see. It read 12.86 across the board. Test came back good as well. Yes I need to have a look at the BCM. While I was at the autohobby shop on base this morning I started to have a look at the BCM bu didn't feel like taking too much apart. Guess I got to now that im home.

ZZ06

Im having a hard time trying to find the write-up Bill had on accessing the BCM. I don't want to start just pulling away at stuff.

73Corvette

Remove the passenger floor mat, there is a carpeted panel that is the base for the footwell... remove it to access the BCM and fuse panel... lift up and out on the panel...

ZZ06

I pulled it up and out tonight. I didn't have the time to take a multimeter to it but I pulled connections to look for possible corrosion. Clean as a whistle. Star connectors were clean too. (sigh)

3sACROWD

Any chance you have a Window Valet installed? I was getting the u1016 codes and my Window Valet stopped working normally. I've pulled it and haven't had the codes in a couple of weeks. Not sure if the Window Valet or the PCM is acting up or maybe they somehow got out of sync.

ZZ06

Negative. Im sorry to mention to fellas, the 3rd time my car shutoff, along with all of those codes I posted, I got the Reduced Engine Power, Service TC/ABS lights and on the DIC as well. Hence the reason im leaning towards the ignition switch. Bill Curlee you around?

ZZ06

ttt

ZZ06

I checked power on the fuses that Bill has listed, all were good. Except my #22 fuse in my IPC block is blank?

ZZ06

The contacts on the switch itself don't look crazy bad, but could use cleaning nonetheless. However, the prongs look awful!. Infact, after going to look back at Bill's pictures and comparing them to mine, mine look a little worse!

ZZ06

All clean! . Yay now for reassembly

Cybermind

Do not rule out a failing crank position sensor. Believe me, I know a thing or two about how an intermittently failing CKP sensor can make diagnosis very difficult. I went through the same thing and began throwing new parts at my car such as new ignition switch and MAF. I also went through all the tests imaginable and could not get my car to stop stalling, actually turning itself off during normal highway cruising. Finally changed my CKP sensor and all has been fine for two years now.

I think your "U" codes are not the cause of your stalls but the result of the car shutting off unexpectedly. Based on my experience, there are really only two components that can cause the car to unexpectedly and intermittently shut off without useable codes. A bad or failing ignition switch or a failing CKP sensor.

Hope this helps.

ZZ06

You know Cybermind, when all of this first started, that was the path i initially thought this was. I looked up symptoms of a failing CKP sensor, and everything i was reading pointed to it, but bc its so rare, i just lost sight of it. Today when i get off work, im going to have a look at the FP relay and jump it just to make sure. I also, at times, the first key turn, the fp wont prime. Coul be 2 issues. One st a time tho.

Bill Dearborn

I agree. The crank position sensor is a good suspect. I had similar intermittent issue with one on a different GM car and the dealer mechanics could never isolate the problem until it completely died.

Bill

ZZ06

Thanks Bill. Yes i am not ruling this out at all. This weekend im going to get a fp guage just to tickle my fancy and see what the psi at the rail is. Unfortuately, pulling the header at this moment isnt favorable simply bc it has a hairline crack. Seems silly to pull it and not be able to get it fixed at the same time i put a new CKPS in place. I will continue to update you all on my findings.

ZZ06

Ok got to work this morning in the garage. Im killing 2 birds with one stone here. The header is going to LG this week for either repair of replacement. Will install a new crank sensor when I order one next week.

ZZ06