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This is my first post after buying my Corvette about 3 months ago. I must say that I absolutely love this car and I'm happy to be a part of the family.
I knew it wouldn't take me long to start modding. So like everyone else I wanted to start with the basic bolt ons before I started tearing into the engine. The car already had a Halltech intake on it when I bought it, so naturally I decided headers would be next. WOW! Nearly $2,000 for what everyone usually suggests (ARH, Kooks, LG). I thought that there had to be a better deal out there, that's when I came acrosse XS Power. After reading many forum posts about people having good experiences with them, I decided to give them a shot. Here is my review after having them installed for nearly 2 weeks.
First off, I want to make things clear that I am not bashing the manufacturer nor retailer. My experience ordering them through Huron Speed was top notch. Shipping was quick and Joshuah was lightning fast on the email replies. As far as the installation goes, I was not fortunate enough to get them to "slide right in". It was a tad more complicated than that.
*Note - I should mention that I had my car on a lift. In my opinion, that's the only reasonable way to do it. It appears it can be done on jack stands, but I wouldn't want to attempt it on such.
Driver Side:
This was the tougher of the 2 sides, in my experience. I gave myself as much room as possible to work with. I removed the alternator, coil packs, spark plugs, and AIR tube fitting. After that, the car went up in the air and fighting began. In my experience, without modification, the header will not slide in. I tried every approach angle I could, but it was clear that it was not going in. This is what I had to do to get it to fit.
This little lip area had to have a section cut out. It was contact one of the primaries and stopping me from sliding the header any further.
(after cutting it was sanded smooth and painted)
Next up, the header was making contact with the oil pan, stopping it from sliding up any further. Once again, I had to grind material off the oil pan.
After grinding those 2 areas, the header was FINALLY able to be slide in the rest of the way. But after bolting it loosely onto the head, I realized one of the primaries was making direct contact with the O2 sensor plug on the frame rail. On top of that, the O2 sensor was out of reach! There was about an inch gap while trying to plug them in.
I had to disconnect the plug from the frame rail and move it back a couple inches, then secure the rest of the wiring to some metal hardlines via zip ties.
Last but not lest, once the header was bolted up, the bung for the O2 sensor did not line up. The bell housing was in the way of trying to install the sensor. So, once again, the grinder came out and I had to remove some material off the bell housing to be able to get the O2 sensor in.
Passenger Side:
First off, the starter has to be removed. No way around it otherwise. Also, double check and triple check the wires on the starter are bolted down correctly, or all this work is for nothing, ask me how I know.
Secondly, this side will not go in from the bottom. I tried every angle, every twist, everything. I could not get it to go. So then it was on to trying the top. That also doesn't look promising at first. I finally had to resort to jacking the motor up about 2 inches and going in from the top. Even then, it took some stern handling to get it to go. Overall, this side was only slightly less painless than the driver side.
As others have mentioned, leave the header loose so you can bolt the starter back in. Once again, double check all the wires are on securely before you snug everything up. I forgot to bolt on the little purple wire, so I couldn't start it up after all that work. Through some sort of miracle, I was able to loosen the nut with a super long extension and wobbly and reattach the wire with some circus like contortion of my arm.
Conclusion:
After all said and done, everything else bolted up rather easily. I do not seem to have any steering shaft contact. The only other thing that I need to address is the spark plug boots. 3/8 of the boots are making direct contact with a header primary. Also remember that the factory exhaust connections at the axle back are threaded, these are not. I had to provide 4 nuts to bolt up to the axle back. After installation, my car also threw a check engine code. I haven't gotten it scanned yet, but I do plan on getting a tune soon, so I will address that then.
The car does seem to have gained some SOTP power, especially on the top end. The sound is also pretty sweet too. I've done the Ti bypass mod, and the car really does sound wicket at WOT. You do have to remember that headers make more sound that stock manifolds. I have a slight tick at certain RMP's, but I've double checked and I don't have any leaks.
Would I recommend these headers? Yes. Would I purchase these headers again after installation? Yes. Overall, this is a great product at a great price. I just wish the installation went a little more smoothly. Even though there was much cussing and many bloody knuckles to be had, I'm happy with my purchase.
DAAYumm... Your install was even worse than mine, and I thought mine was bad. Here are my hints and reviews for anyone needing to gather experiences for their own install:
I, too, though, must agree; I'd do it again for the performance gains vs. the expense. The delivery and service from Superman09 was fantastic. For header installs, I'm 1-for-4 for "drop-ins", and only a set of Hookers into a Chevy van was 'easy'. Big (and nationally recognized) brand names (and exorbitant cost) don't seem to have any influence on the 'ease' of installation.
DAAYumm... Your install was even worse than mine, and I thought mine was bad. Here are my hints and reviews for anyone needing to gather experiences for their own install:
I, too, though, must agree; I'd do it again for the performance gains vs. the expense. The delivery and service from Superman09 was fantastic. For header installs, I'm 1-for-4 for "drop-ins", and only a set of Hookers into a Chevy van was 'easy'. Big (and nationally recognized) brand names (and exorbitant cost) don't seem to have any influence on the 'ease' of installation.
Ya, I actually read your post before I started mine. I was hoping that mine wasn't as bad as yours. I guess I'm right in a sense, it was worse, lol! Oh well, what's done is done. In the end I'm just happy I got them on and working well. I've only installed 2 other sets of headers, but they were on engines that were out of the car so that made it easy! I guess I can't complain too much, after all, it is a Corvette. Not like installing headers in a full size pickup.
I didn't cut anything or jack my engine. Drivers side went in easy, passenger side took about an hour of twisting, manipulating, and pushing. Finally slide right in from the bottom .
Wow, that's a lot of work for a header install. When I had LG Pro's back in the day, they dropped in, lined right up, didn't touch a thing. Same with the ARH and Kooks I've installed on guys cars. For the money though, those above should install themselves, lol.
That's one thing I don't understand about these headers. Some people seem to have a painless install, and they more or less "drop right in". Others seem to have a pretty tough time. It was clear my passenger side was not going in from the bottom. The only angle that had any success (I tried many) had the back half of the header up against the engine block unable to move. There was simply no way to get it in from the bottom, even with the motor jacked a few inches.
I don't want to take anything away from XS Power/Huron Speed though. The headers are a quality product for the money. The flanges were level, the finish looked good, the welds looked good. I just want to warn potential buyers that these might not “slide right in” and there may be a little custom work to install these.
I've done 4 XS Power header installs. I was the Mule tester for the C5 & C6 line of XS Power headers.
The C6 was fitted and adjusted on my 06 C6 Coupe on jack stands in the drive way and the C5 line was test fitted and adjusted on my buddy's 04 Vert in my drive way on jack stands.
Each header series had O2 Sensor fitment issues. The C6 series had steering shaft fitment issues also. All the fitment issues were well documented along with measurements and pictures and recommendations for resolution of ALL the fitment issues.
YoungRedZ: When you stated that you had O2 sensor fitment issues, I just shook my head! That should have been resolved LONG LONG ago!
I guess it fell on deaf ears of no one cares.
The C6 XS Power headers fit the best and YES,, they can be installed from the bottom, "with a little effort"
The C5 headers were a pain. The passengers side gave the most grief. Had to jack the engine off the mount and remove the starter.
I don't care WHAT people say. Yes you will gain some power without a good tune BUT,,, you wont gain ALL the power that is on the table!
Your EMISSIONS (read fuel mileage) will drop significantly without a tune. To gain your fuel mileage back, you will need to do some Volumemetric Efficiency (VE) Table modifications and MAF Sensor table rescaling to get the best fuel efficiency.
I have STAINLESS WORKS 1 3/4" Primary Headers on my 02 ZO6 and they fit 100% in from the bottom. EXCELLENT SYSTEM!
Wow! nice write-up.
I have found (during various installations of various things) that is helps to remember from the start that the engine & trans can be pushed around a fair amount. Most recently all I had to do was drop the tranny pan off a 1-ton vehicle - should be easy right? No, the exhaust crossed tight directly underneath it. It was simplest to unbolt the tranny and jack it for some room.
Might you have been able to avoid grinding on the oil pan, etc if the engine had been jacked from the start?
Wow! nice write-up.
I have found (during various installations of various things) that is helps to remember from the start that the engine & trans can be pushed around a fair amount. Most recently all I had to do was drop the tranny pan off a 1-ton vehicle - should be easy right? No, the exhaust crossed tight directly underneath it. It was simplest to unbolt the tranny and jack it for some room.
Might you have been able to avoid grinding on the oil pan, etc if the engine had been jacked from the start?
Glad you like them!
I tried jacking up the driver side as well before I whipped out the grinder. It didn't seem like a north/south clearance issue, it was more east/west. At that point, I knew I was close and if I did have to grind I knew it wouldn't be much. I opted for the grinder rather than unbolting more stuff and trying to move it around more. It's very possibly that could of worked though.
I've done 4 XS Power header installs. I was the Mule tester for the C5 & C6 line of XS Power headers.
The C6 was fitted and adjusted on my 06 C6 Coupe on jack stands in the drive way and the C5 line was test fitted and adjusted on my buddy's 04 Vert in my drive way on jack stands.
Each header series had O2 Sensor fitment issues. The C6 series had steering shaft fitment issues also. All the fitment issues were well documented along with measurements and pictures and recommendations for resolution of ALL the fitment issues.
YoungRedZ: When you stated that you had O2 sensor fitment issues, I just shook my head! That should have been resolved LONG LONG ago!
I guess it fell on deaf ears of no one cares.
The C6 XS Power headers fit the best and YES,, they can be installed from the bottom, "with a little effort"
The C5 headers were a pain. The passengers side gave the most grief. Had to jack the engine off the mount and remove the starter.
I don't care WHAT people say. Yes you will gain some power without a good tune BUT,,, you wont gain ALL the power that is on the table!
Your EMISSIONS (read fuel mileage) will drop significantly without a tune. To gain your fuel mileage back, you will need to do some Volumemetric Efficiency (VE) Table modifications and MAF Sensor table rescaling to get the best fuel efficiency.
I have STAINLESS WORKS 1 3/4" Primary Headers on my 02 ZO6 and they fit 100% in from the bottom. EXCELLENT SYSTEM!
BANG for the BUCK, you get a great header.
Bill
Bill, that's unfortunate to hear about the issues being reported. But it seems like each case is unique. There's no consistency. Some people have it good, others have it not so good.
I agree 100% about the tune. Though I might hold off just a little while longer. I might start my heads/cam project soon. I would rather go get it dyno tuned with everything all done rather than go there with the headers done, then go back 2 months later when the heads/cam are done.
I was and pretty upset with my big tube 1&7/8th 1st gen Kooks I just installed, not near as extensive as yours... I no longer am. That's perseverance right there! Those are a beauty too!
Get 4 more nuts and double nut the collector flanges. Spin a second nut up against the first and then hold the first while you tighten the second one against it. Trust me on this one and just do it before it comes loose on you.
I've had mine for years now and the passenger side just hardly went in but I did get both sides without any cutting or grinding. The drivers side went right in as easy as easy. No O2 sensor clearance issues and I'm running cats with all 4 O2 sensors installed.
I did remove the O2 sensor connectors off the frame and tie wrapped them up out of the way to other wiring instead.
I also had to use a clamp and to pull the AC line tighter to the frame to avoid it touching and having issues. The heat wrapping looked in poor shape so I also bought a starter heat wrap and using part of it to double wrap the line to ensure it doesn't get damaged.
I'm using the GM red wires and my plug boots clear. They are close but they don't touch and I haven't had any problem with them melting.
Get 4 more nuts and double nut the collector flanges. Spin a second nut up against the first and then hold the first while you tighten the second one against it. Trust me on this one and just do it before it comes loose on you.
I've had mine for years now and the passenger side just hardly went in but I did get both sides without any cutting or grinding. The drivers side went right in as easy as easy. No O2 sensor clearance issues and I'm running cats with all 4 O2 sensors installed.
I did remove the O2 sensor connectors off the frame and tie wrapped them up out of the way to other wiring instead.
I also had to use a clamp and to pull the AC line tighter to the frame to avoid it touching and having issues. The heat wrapping looked in poor shape so I also bought a starter heat wrap and using part of it to double wrap the line to ensure it doesn't get damaged.
I'm using the GM red wires and my plug boots clear. They are close but they don't touch and I haven't had any problem with them melting.
Ya, next time I'm under the car I'll be double nutting the two collector flanges. As far as my plug boots go, for now, I'm gonna try and band-aid it with some left over plug wire heat shields. Hopefully that will buy me some time until I can find the right set of plug wires that will clear the headers.
Great write up! I am glad that you chose to share your journey. I had a little problem on the passenger side, but no other fitment issues. I have had to tighten the rear flange nuts and I had an issue where the collector pipe slips into the rear pipe. I think that I may still have a leak because I have a slight 'chirp' when I start up cold. Anybody else have this issue? Anyway, I would do it again in a heartbeat! I am pleased with the headers, the customer service, and the product. And it sounds and looks good too!
Ive found with plug boots that the boot will burn if it's against the pipe even with a heat shield type sleeve between it and the pipe. It just seems the pipes are hot enough the heat eventually gets through.
I forgot, but I also tig welded the center 3 parts all together to get rid of the clamps in the middle. It made it all bolt together and no chance of a clamp slipping.
08-30-2015, 10:10 PM
XS Power header install review *LONG*
That should have been resolved LONG LONG ago!
