baileysade

My '02 C5 just turned 40K Miles & I'm considering a Trans. Fluid Change. I've investigated doing this myself but the procedure looks quite involved. I don't want to take it in to the G.M dealer & get wacked with big $$ charge. As a third alternative I'm considering having a reputable Trans. Fluid/ Oil Change shop hook up the machine that completely drains the Torque Converter & replaces all the Trans. Fluid with a pump.Cost $120.00.
Any ideas /comments ?

zachaeous

Hi, I changed the fluid and filter on my 2001 myself. It only drains what is in the transmission pan. The hardest part is getting the car up on jack stands and level. The shops that do this with a pressure type machine normally do not change the filter just the oil. They will most likely use Dexron 6 transmission fluid which is what GM has went to. I have heard of horror stories about using the pressure type changers on higher mileage C5 or any other model as well, causing transmission failures soon after the change. Yours is a low mileage car and I believe you would be OK. If it was me I would change the fluid in the pan as well as the filter and call it good. I know it is a pain to do it but at least I know what the inside of the pan looks like and the color of the old oil. Good luck with your repair.

Bill Curlee

You must know that the RE-FILL procedure is very very different that anything you have ever done on a Auto Trans.

You must fill the trans, then start the engine, warm to normal operating temp, cycle the trans through the gear ranges and then,,, WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, remove the fill plug and add additional fluid until the pan if FULL again. Replace the plug and your good to go.

If the refill procedure isn't followed 100%, you risk damaging the trans.

IF,,,,,,,,,, You remove the plug when the engine of OFF, the additional fluid that you added when the engine was running will GUSH out.

BC

bluemike28

If your 4L60E is even a little bit low on fluid, you can burn it up very quickly. How do I know? A dealership who did the fluid service for me ended up under filling my trans by 2 quarts and it burned up in under 500 miles. Like it has been said here already, the process is complex and MUST be done while the trans is warm and the car is running. Make sure you find someone who has done this procedure on other C5's or else I wouldn't risk handing them the keys.

pjensen

Don't expect even a corvette shop will get it right. That was my experience when I had one do a filter change and refill. The transmission fluid level needs to be checked again after the initial fill. I could actually hear clanking plates until I got it right.

It is not that hard to do yourself - but it takes some planning. I have a kwiklift so it is easy to get under the car. It takes a 22mm wrench to take the bolt off. A socket wrench is too big. I put on goggles and latex gloves. Note the exhaust pipe is 2" away from the bolt (it does not get hot, just warm).

I put a fan at the front of the car to blow the exhaust out the garage. I used a mitac pump to pressurize the transmission fluid bottle and another plastic hose (3/8" OD) from the bottle to the transmission.

Get in the car and start it and get the transmission fluid up to 85 degrees, then shift from park through all the gears, a couple of seconds in each one. Then shift back to park. Note: wheels are chocked and brakes set.

Get under the car and get that bolt out. Stick the hose in and start pumping. I had about 5 minutes before the transmission got too hot. Getting the bolt threaded back in takes both hands - it is slippery from the oil. I could get 1/2 a quart in each time (and it had not overflowed yet).

Yes it was not fun....

02GoldVette

Do you guys happen to have a guide/thread regarding on how to change the trans fluid?

Martinez310

if you do end up going to a shop look for a auto shop that only specialize on transmission
i took my vette to those name brand shop like Firestone they completely messed up my transmission by putting the wrong filter i had to rebuilt tranny because i trusted them so much

zachaeous

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Automatic Transmission Fluid/Filter Replacement
Removal Procedure

Caution
When the transmission is at operating temperatures, take necessary precautions when removing the check/fill plug, to avoid being burned by draining fluid.






Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Place a drain pan under the transmission.
Clean any dirt from around the transmission check/fill plug.
Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug and allow the fluid to drain.



Support the transmission oil pan.
Remove the transmission oil pan bolts.
Loosely reinstall the fluid check/fill plug.
Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry gently in order to loosen the pan.
Remove the transmission oil pan.
Drain the remaining fluid from the oil pan.




Important
Note the position of the filter before removal to aid in installation.


Grasp firmly while pulling down with a twisting motion in order to remove the filter.



Remove the filter seal. The filter seal may be stuck in the pump; if necessary, carefully use pliers or another suitable tool to remove the seal.
Discard the seal.
Inspect the transmission fluid. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure .
Inspect the transmission fluid filter. Pry the metal crimping away from the top of the filter and pull apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis:
Clutch material
Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear
Steel particles

Important
Remove ALL traces of old gasket material from the transmission case and the oil pan gasket surfaces.


Clean the oil pan gasket mating surfaces, on both the transmission case and the transmission oil pan, with solvent and air dry.
Installation Procedure
Tools Required
J 36850 Transmission Assembling Lubricant (Transjel™)





Coat the new filter seal with a small amount of J 36850 or equivalent.
Install the new filter seal into the transmission case. Gently tap the seal into place using a suitable size socket.



Install the new oil filter into position as noted during removal.



Inspect the oil pan bolts and washers to determine if the conical washers are reversed.
Reuse the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are NOT reversed (1).
Replace the oil pan bolts and washers if the conical washers are reversed (2).




Install the new oil pan gasket to the oil pan sealing surface.
Position the oil pan to the transmission case and support the oil pan.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the oil pan bolts. Tighten
Tighten the transmission oil pan bolts alternately and evenly to 11 N•m (97 lb in).





Remove the transmission fluid check/fill plug.
Fill the transmission with DEXRON®-III (New GM Recommendation is Dexron VI) automatic transmission fluid through the check/fill plug hole until fluid begins to pour out, then install the check/fill plug hand-tight.
Complete filling the transmission with fluid to the proper level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure .
Tighten the transmission fluid check/fill plug. Tighten

The fill procedure requires being very vigilant and must be taken serious. I filled mine to just dribbling out and then got into the car and put in in gear forward to reverse several times and then refilled the fluid level. I let the car run till it was good and warmed up and rechecked the level to just be sure. Good luck with your repair.

enoniam

It's not that bad if you don't mind working under the car while it is running. Yes the exhaust gets hot. You can wear gloves to help with that but I manage to do it with bare hands and avoiding touching the exhaust. (I've got a Corsa catback so maybe it is easier on my car.) I use a hand pump I picked up at my local NAPA store to pump in the fluid. Seems to take close to 2 quarts while running, and if I remember correctly about 4 to refill the pan before starting the car. An electric pump would be very nice - gets to be a bit of a workout using a hand pump under the car.

For me (and my family) it's a bit unnerving but I manage to do it. My son was awarded a Life Saving Medal by the Boy Scouts for saving my life when my Avalanche rolled off of ramps with me underneath. Had my legs out the back with feet planted on the ground - bumper came down on top of my knees breaking both of my legs. Differential came down and pinned my gut just below the ribcage. Luckily wife and son heard my calls for help. Just as my son started lifting the truck off of me with the floor jack I could literally feel energy draining from my body. Doctors said it was likely the differential was cutting off blood flow to my heart.

bluemike28

Update: After a few phone calls, Valvoline and Jimmie Johnson Chevy in San Diego stepped up and they are covering the repairs 100%! I was disappointed the whole thing happened but it is refreshing to see this kind of service.

soggysailor

HOLY CRAP........
That would cure me of ever getting working under a car again. I am always thinking disaster when i'm under the vette and usually have redundancy in vehicle.support

enoniam

I've gotten back on the horse after having it buck me pretty hard. Been under that truck again and under the vette several times as well. Will probably be getting under the vette again this weekend to try to track down an engine noise I've been hearing.

I am though much more careful.

jcgunn

There are some jobs which are best left to a pro, this is one of them! Ask around, find a shop with a good rep and pay the man. Maybe someone on the forum will recommend one in your town?

Yellow '01

Hi everyone,
Been reading this thread and was wondering a couple things. Can the converter be drained, and where exactly are the plugs you have been discussing. I gather one is in the pan for the initial fill up while running. But is there a second one for a final top off?
Thanks,
Y '01

enoniam

As noted by zachaeous in the 2nd post of this thread all you are draining is what is in the pan. If my memory serves me well you will be replacing about 6 quarts. You cannot drain the converter when it is installed - even uninstalled it takes quite a while to drain and even then you probably aren't getting everything out. A totally dry tranny, converter, cooler and lines will take around 13-14 quarts so when doing the fluid change you're actually changing less than half of the fluid which is why the flush has some merits.

As far as the plug (bolt) there is but one. It is located on the driver's side of the pan. Once again from memory I believe I use a 7/8s box/open end wrench. Seems to be one of the few things a non-metric wrench can be used on with these cars. When shut off a good deal (over 2 quarts, once again from potentially faulty memory) of the fluid circulating flows back into the pan filling it past the fill plug bolt hole. When started up the pump circulates this extra fluid through the tranny which drives the need to add as much as you can with the car not running and then add the extra amount needed while the engine is running and turning the tranny pump.

zachaeous

The Converter cannot be drained without removing the transmission. The drain plug and fill plug are the same plug. You have to pump fluid into the drain plug/fill plug with a pump from under the car. Hope this helps.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks for all the useful information. Will come in handy when I need to change the fluid in my A4.