Harmonic balancer
02-10-2016, 03:23 AM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Harmonic balancer
OK gang, I'm fixing to tackle the replace the harmonic balancer job on my 97 c5. I've watched froggy's video and it looks pretty straight forward. Question is, which replacement balancer to buy?? The discussion on some of the forums say to stay away from the AC Delco and Dorman replacements because they're junk. My vette has 110,000 miles on it and it's just a cruiser, no racing, so I don't want to spend hundreds of dollar's on a replacement. Any suggestions on a good one for a reasonable price? Thanks!
Last edited by theoldmusicman; 02-10-2016 at 03:24 AM.
02-10-2016, 07:38 AM
#2
Team Owner
Not sure which video you watched but make sure it follows the service manual and not ls1howto.com or you will be back asking how to fix the crankshaft.
02-10-2016, 09:59 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Although there are a lot of really good balancers like ATI that are rated and approved for racing, they are pretty expensive.
I did not want the stock AC balancer since they fail so often. My stock one failed at 30k miles.
I went with the stock replacement Powerbond one. At Oreilly's it is about $100. I put it on and there was zero wobble and no more belt chirping. I drove it for 3 or 4 years before I sold the car and it was still spinning true with no wobble when I sold it.
I also went with an ARP bolt since I wanted a conventional reusable bolt that can be torqued normally instead of the one time use torque plus angle OEM bolt.
Like Vettenuts said make sure to use an installer tool (or make one) so you don't damage the crank threads.
Good luck.
I did not want the stock AC balancer since they fail so often. My stock one failed at 30k miles.
I went with the stock replacement Powerbond one. At Oreilly's it is about $100. I put it on and there was zero wobble and no more belt chirping. I drove it for 3 or 4 years before I sold the car and it was still spinning true with no wobble when I sold it.
I also went with an ARP bolt since I wanted a conventional reusable bolt that can be torqued normally instead of the one time use torque plus angle OEM bolt.
Like Vettenuts said make sure to use an installer tool (or make one) so you don't damage the crank threads.
Good luck.
02-10-2016, 12:03 PM
#4
Team Owner
Although there are a lot of really good balancers like ATI that are rated and approved for racing, they are pretty expensive.
I did not want the stock AC balancer since they fail so often. My stock one failed at 30k miles.
I went with the stock replacement Powerbond one. At Oreilly's it is about $100. I put it on and there was zero wobble and no more belt chirping. I drove it for 3 or 4 years before I sold the car and it was still spinning true with no wobble when I sold it.
I also went with an ARP bolt since I wanted a conventional reusable bolt that can be torqued normally instead of the one time use torque plus angle OEM bolt.
Like Vettenuts said make sure to use an installer tool (or make one) so you don't damage the crank threads.
Good luck.
I did not want the stock AC balancer since they fail so often. My stock one failed at 30k miles.
I went with the stock replacement Powerbond one. At Oreilly's it is about $100. I put it on and there was zero wobble and no more belt chirping. I drove it for 3 or 4 years before I sold the car and it was still spinning true with no wobble when I sold it.
I also went with an ARP bolt since I wanted a conventional reusable bolt that can be torqued normally instead of the one time use torque plus angle OEM bolt.
Like Vettenuts said make sure to use an installer tool (or make one) so you don't damage the crank threads.
Good luck.
Good advice. Powerbond makes a quality stock replacement HB as part of their available items. Powerbond part number PB1117N.Summit Racing has them for $73.97.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pbb-pb1117n
Buy and install the ARP bolt too.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...make/chevrolet
HTH
02-10-2016, 01:26 PM
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Powerbond sounds good to me. I was planning on the ARP bolt anyway. Don't have an installer tool but I can get one, or make one. Also need to get the flywheel locking tools. Wonder if Summit has one? They have the Allstar Performance ALL96426 tools. It doesn't have a picture so I'm not positive it's the one I need.
I watched Froggy's YouTube video. Froggy's a legend in the Corvette world. He's posted many, many helpful how-to videos.
Thanks for all the help! It's appriciated!
I watched Froggy's YouTube video. Froggy's a legend in the Corvette world. He's posted many, many helpful how-to videos.
Thanks for all the help! It's appriciated!
02-10-2016, 01:48 PM
#6
Le Mans Master
Powerbond sounds good to me. I was planning on the ARP bolt anyway. Don't have an installer tool but I can get one, or make one. Also need to get the flywheel locking tools. Wonder if Summit has one? They have the Allstar Performance ALL96426 tools. It doesn't have a picture so I'm not positive it's the one I need.
I watched Froggy's YouTube video. Froggy's a legend in the Corvette world. He's posted many, many helpful how-to videos.
Thanks for all the help! It's appriciated!
I watched Froggy's YouTube video. Froggy's a legend in the Corvette world. He's posted many, many helpful how-to videos.
Thanks for all the help! It's appriciated!
If you have a 6 speed you do not need the flywheel locking tools. Just put the trans in 6th gear with the e brake set. It will hold the motor enough to loosen and tighten the crankshaft bolt without any other tool needed. (I did it that way on my '99 M6)
Good luck.
02-10-2016, 02:32 PM
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
Another question. Anyone know where to get a 10" or 12" extension bar, 1/2" drive, for a torque wrench? I'll need the extra leverage to get the bolt out, and back in again to the proper torque settings. I'm a lightweight so I know I can't pull 250 lb torque without an extension. Thanks again!
02-10-2016, 02:41 PM
#9
OK gang, I'm fixing to tackle the replace the harmonic balancer job on my 97 c5. I've watched froggy's video and it looks pretty straight forward. Question is, which replacement balancer to buy?? The discussion on some of the forums say to stay away from the AC Delco and Dorman replacements because they're junk. My vette has 110,000 miles on it and it's just a cruiser, no racing, so I don't want to spend hundreds of dollar's on a replacement. Any suggestions on a good one for a reasonable price? Thanks!
Also you're going to need a new a seal for the crank p/n 12585673, some other things I purchased for the job arp bolt number 2342503 torqued to 240ft/lbs with red loctite, 12 point deep socket 1 1/16, puller OTC 6667, summits HB installer, and the ATI pinning kit.
Can I follow ls1howtos on taking out/installing the steering rack and then ignoring the rest. If not can you please provide a link on where I can purchase the service manual.
02-10-2016, 03:16 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
I have to do this job also on my vette also, But what are the symptoms you're getting to signify you to replace it?? chirping, major wobble, etc??
Also you're going to need a new a seal for the crank p/n 12585673, some other things I purchased for the job arp bolt number 2342503 torqued to 240ft/lbs with red loctite, 12 point deep socket 1 1/16, puller OTC 6667, summits HB installer, and the ATI pinning kit.
Can I follow ls1howtos on taking out/installing the steering rack and then ignoring the rest. If not can you please provide a link on where I can purchase the service manual.
Also you're going to need a new a seal for the crank p/n 12585673, some other things I purchased for the job arp bolt number 2342503 torqued to 240ft/lbs with red loctite, 12 point deep socket 1 1/16, puller OTC 6667, summits HB installer, and the ATI pinning kit.
Can I follow ls1howtos on taking out/installing the steering rack and then ignoring the rest. If not can you please provide a link on where I can purchase the service manual.
There's a lot of threads on here and LS1tech about using a proper install tool or making your own with a threaded rod.
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jimmyLSX (02-10-2016)
02-10-2016, 03:18 PM
#11
Advanced
Thread Starter
Symptoms are the outer part of the balancer has moved back about 1/2". Makes for a real loud squealing noise due to the belt alignment being off that far. In fact, the belt is riding up on the outer edge of the balancer and not down in the grooves.
I thought about the seal but wasn't sure if I needed to replace it or not. Got the ARP bolt and the puller already. I'll order the installer from Summit when I order the HB. Not going to pin it.
I thought about the seal but wasn't sure if I needed to replace it or not. Got the ARP bolt and the puller already. I'll order the installer from Summit when I order the HB. Not going to pin it.
02-10-2016, 04:23 PM
#13
Team Owner
I just watched his video, some of the things he does are not necessary and don't follow the manual. Also, per ATI (which he installed) he didn't check the interference which is critical.
Last edited by vettenuts; 02-11-2016 at 07:24 AM.
02-10-2016, 04:57 PM
#14
Could you please explain what checking the interference is and its importance, I plan on installing an ATI, thanks.
02-10-2016, 05:16 PM
#15
Advanced
If this was an Automatic Transmission how would the Balancer Bolt be removed and then replaced. I saw one comment that included using the Belt wrapped around the Balencer and another pulley. I used this trick back in the days working on small engines but a little afraid this method can damage the pulley used. Any comments would be welcome.
02-10-2016, 05:24 PM
#16
Team Owner
Another question. Anyone know where to get a 10" or 12" extension bar, 1/2" drive, for a torque wrench? I'll need the extra leverage to get the bolt out, and back in again to the proper torque settings. I'm a lightweight so I know I can't pull 250 lb torque without an extension. Thanks again!
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theoldmusicman (02-10-2016)
02-10-2016, 08:25 PM
#18
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LS1HowTo at the link below.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
In my opinion the ARP bolt is way too expensive for someone changing just the balancer and probably won't be back into the engine for many years - if ever. The factory bolt is cheap, about $5.00, and will do the job as well as an ARP bolt, about $35.00. The bolt isn't the problem, it's the balancer.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
In my opinion the ARP bolt is way too expensive for someone changing just the balancer and probably won't be back into the engine for many years - if ever. The factory bolt is cheap, about $5.00, and will do the job as well as an ARP bolt, about $35.00. The bolt isn't the problem, it's the balancer.
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theoldmusicman (02-10-2016)
02-10-2016, 09:54 PM
#19
Advanced
Thread Starter
OK, another question. Sorry for all the questions. I've been doing my own mechanic work since I got my first car back in 1964 but I'm somewhat new to the vette and the ls1 engine.
As someone mentioned earlier in this thread, is it a good idea to replace the front seal while I have the HB off? If so, can it be done without removing the timing chain cover? How?
Thanks again!
As someone mentioned earlier in this thread, is it a good idea to replace the front seal while I have the HB off? If so, can it be done without removing the timing chain cover? How?
Thanks again!
02-10-2016, 10:03 PM
#20
OK, another question. Sorry for all the questions. I've been doing my own mechanic work since I got my first car back in 1964 but I'm somewhat new to the vette and the ls1 engine.
As someone mentioned earlier in this thread, is it a good idea to replace the front seal while I have the HB off? If so, can it be done without removing the timing chain cover? How?
Thanks again!
As someone mentioned earlier in this thread, is it a good idea to replace the front seal while I have the HB off? If so, can it be done without removing the timing chain cover? How?
Thanks again!