01sketchyvert

Hello everyone.
I've had my 01 vert for about 3 weeks now and it seems that the electrical gremlins have already set in. I have read several different threads on this problem and the sticky that was posted here. My first problem was the flashing cluster with reduced engine power, trac, handling, abs, all gauges going to default except speed/tach/volts, and the radio would quit when this all began. Turning the key off and back on real quick would usually cure the problem for 5-10 minutes and it would happen again. All of a sudden it quit happening. For about 2 weeks; then today it happened again, only this time the driver window will not go up and the lock won't work. The driver switch for windows and locks does not work at all, but the mirrors and memory seats do work, as does the speaker. Then the passenger window would not go up or down, when I wiggle the wires in the bellow at the passenger door I can get the passenger window and locks to work. At this point, with the passenger door working again, the driver switch will operate the passenger window and lock, but not the driver side still. Further investigation shows that the wires going into the connector that operates the passenger door lock/window, are loose in their sockets. So I pulled the driver bellow and checked the wires there, same problem but I can not make the window work even when pushing all of the wires tightly into the connector. I went ahead and pulled the passenger footwell panel and the fuse cover but was cut off with having to go back to work. I know this has been discussed before but I can not find this exact problem. Even if I can not get the dash lights and radio to quit messing up, I need the window to roll up because I'm going to Myrtle Beach's Run to the Sun show this weekend and need security.
Thanks everyone,
Blane

Robert Perkins

First thing is pull the DIC codes. Check battery read the battery direct with a multi meter. With car not running.Compare with your voltmeter reading how much difference? The C5 is very sensitive to voltage.

01sketchyvert

Thanks for the response. I didn't have time to pull the codes yet, but I did check the battery. Running voltage is 14.24. Key off voltage is 12.46. Key on voltage is 12.31. The battery only has a RC of 110 and is 6 years old. I hadn't checked it yet. Maybe I can charge it, or just replace it?

Robert Perkins

Just replace it it is bad, that should fix your problems.

01sketchyvert

Okay, thank you. I think I should still go through all of my connectors whenever I have more time though. It's so odd to think the battery would drop just the drivers window though. Maybe the bcm or something isn't communicating because of the battery? Trying to understand why it does this, especially since it sees plenty of voltage when it is running. I will replace it today before we leave.
Blane

Robert Perkins

The C5 is very voltage sensitive. After you replace the battery make sure all codes are clear and drive the car check for any new codes and report back. Good luck.

Robert Perkins

The original poster stated the battery is six years old and I had him measure at the battery and only 12.31 with key on not running, battery is bad.

Pounder

ZZ06

8VETTE7 beat me to it. Have a look see at your ignition switch.

01sketchyvert

Thanks everyone for the replies. I had a battery tester at work and it showed the battery to be in good condition still. And since I am going out of town this weekend I did not bother with getting a battery, I will when I get back. I have decided to not take the vette. Since getting home I have gone through and checked al of the codes in the DIC. There is quite a list of them. U1016, u1255, u1064, u1096, u1301, u1160, b2202, b2284, b1255, b1064, b1016, b2283, b2285, u1300, c2100, c2105, c2110, and c2115. After clearing all of the codes the only one that would continually come back and not clear was B2284. I believe that is left door battery #2 low/issue. Driving home today I didn't have any issues with other lights flashing on the dash or radio issues and the passenger door works completely from both the driver side switches and the passenger side switches. The only thing that does not work is the driver side window and lock still. Also found out the 12v outlets do not work when trying to charge my phone. I have thought about the ignition switch before but haven't had the time to pull everything apart to get to it, and I won't be able to check it until after the weekend. Any quick thoughts on that code, or maybe it's at the module in the door itself? I will continue to post my findings until the problem is fixed. Thanks everyone.
Blane

Robert Perkins

So you load tested the battery and it tested good?

01sketchyvert

Yes sir it did. Did with a digital tester and then an old tester with the switch you hold for 10 seconds or so. Both showed it to be in good condition through RC and CCA on the digital.
Blane.

01sketchyvert

I will say, I am going to be replacing it as soon as I get back due to age if nothing else. I will get either an optima or order a battery that is accepted among the forum.
Blane

rrwirsi

Other than gas, a good battery is a must in the C5 to make it go. I replace every battery in my 3 cars after 4 years whether it needs it or not. After one episode with wifee being stranded, lesson is learned.

dsmith4229

If this happened after rain or wash.Reach under drivers side of car wind shield wiper and remove the utters clean them and put them in the hatch compartment. If problem still exists. Change out the wind shield wiper motor. Had same problem years ago. Have not had a problem since.

01sketchyvert

Just checking in real quick. Have been at Run to the Sun this weekend, awesome show as always. I am getting the battery today, it's the ACDelco professional one. Seems everyone likes that or the optima red/yellow tops. We will see what happens. If that doesn't work, I will move on to the ignition switch and then the door itself. I have washed it a couple times but that hasn't seemed to bother it in the least bit, I will still check to see if I find anything in the wiper area. Thanks again everyone, I'll report my findings with the battery this evening.
Blane

01sketchyvert

Quick update everyone. I replaced the battery with a 78 series acdelco professional. 800cca and 110rc. Believe that is what I need. I'm also going to invest in a float charger. It did not solve the driver side window and door lock problem. But, everything else seems to be working very well, the DIC shows a higher charging voltage now and it may even start a little quicker. I cleared all codes and drove it, the B2284 is still there, it never would clear. I went ahead and checked the rubber udders at the wiper, one had a lot of leaves in it but was all dry, I cleaned both out very well and rechecked, still nothing. I guess next step is ignition switch and then to the door itself. I also want to go through both door 6 pin connectors and redo all of the wires to make them tighter.
Blane

01sketchyvert

Hello all. I wanted to update everyone on the status of my car. I was able to fix my problems. Upon removing my driver door panel, I found that I was not getting power to the driver side window and lock. I went through both door harnesses and fixed the connectors. After that I traced the wires back to the bcm and fuse panel. I was able to find some of the connectors there ever so slightly damp and corroded. After fixing all of the issues there I wad able to once again gain power at the door and everything works as it should. Hopefully fixing the connectors and replacing the battery, the dash will no longer light up randomly. I want to thank everyone again for the insight and helpful posts.
Blane

jjc508520

Thanks for the followup!