RED 72 VETTE

hi everyone, I've got a 2004 Procharged Z06, had a new clutch last year with slave and remote bleeder. The problem is if I rev it to the redline even once I lose the pedal. After a few seconds it comes back, almost like it is boiling the fluid momentarily. I have flushed fluid and it is totally clean.
The car will drive all day to around the 5 k rev range without issue it is only when you really get on it. I was going to try a tick master cylinder, any good?????
Will this cure problem????

Bill Curlee

Well,,,,,, If it were me,,, The very first thing that I would do is replace the GM Master Cylinder. Cheep and easy.

Go for there!!

neutron82

what clutch did you replace it with, another stock one?

RED 72 VETTE

I believe it was a stock C6 Z06 unit

95wht6spd

How much power?

jimmyLSX

I say you need a new clutch if your power level is above >480+, but if the clutch was just swapped recently last year more then likely it is your master cylinder going out its more then 10 years old swap out with a new oem GM master cylinder dont buy a amazon or a autoparts mc, an actual oem, just because they look the same doesnt mean the quality is the same. Also try using a Really good dot4 fluid like ate or srf that seems to help out.

Also FWIW, I have a tick master cylinder, I love mine, Its main pluses of having one is the pedal doesnt get mushy, clutch will always disengage if pedal height is set up correctly, short pedal throw for faster shifts(my pedal height is two inches below the brake pedal). Two main cons that I see guys mention and end up selling their tick MC is the pedal height and stiffness. Some say its harder modulating the clutch with a short pedal, the stiffness increases dramatically with an aftermarket clutch probably 30-40% stiffer compared to with an oem gm MC installed.

Personally I have no problem with the short pedal height, I have a monster stage 2 and the clutch is like an on and off switch of engagement and the tick mc height compliments this very well. The stiffness doesnt bother me Im only 22 so its not hard, your legs muscle memory will adapt to it, though I will admit if I was 45 or older I would not want this MC in my car that I bought only to enjoy on a Weekend basis, will definetly feel weird getting into a different car a with a stock clutch, youll think that car is broken.

RED 72 VETTE

Thanks to everyone for your quick responses, I am going to change the master for a tick and castrol fluid and go from there.
The car has 613 crank HP, but the clutch is basically a new GM unit, it's not raced and this problem is after one max Rev shift.

neutron82

I've been down this road before... I did the same thing and tried a tick master with expensive castrol srf fluid which helped a tad but it did not cure the problem... I agree about trying the clutch master first since it is cheap and easy to replace but I have a gut feeling that you're going to need a new clutch to solve this issue, in my opinion it is due to the factory pressure plate design... the ls7 clutch is better than a c5 clutch but essentially it is the same type of design... when I swapped mine out for an aftermarket unit all of my problems went away and I was actually able to shift in the upper rpms without issue... these cars can shift pretty nice it just sucks the amount of trouble and money you have to spend getting it to that point

jimmyLSX

Yeah 613crank hp maybe 530-550 rwhp, the real ticket is the torque im gonna go and say your definetly above 500+ on torque, the ls7 was only designed to hold 450ft/lbs of torque Ive seen some vettes hold it down a while with 480ft/lbs but those did alot of roll racing. I suggest you invest in a good aftermarket clutch like a twin disc. If you dont sooner or later its going to start slipping, and then when you do take it apart, its gonna be a mess.

Bill Curlee

613 CHP!!! I can only DREAM of that much..

LOL!! Now that I realize that you are pushing that much HP through the clutch, I only hope a new MC will help.

When I did my Heads, Cam, Fast 90 install and was road tuning the engine to 450 RWHP, The first good tune through a OEM ZO6 (35,000 miles) cause the peddle to the floor issue. I went right to a SPEC Twin Disk.

RED 72 VETTE I have some LESSONS LEARNED on aftermarket clutch installation that can prevent some post installations set backs if you would like the.

Bill

RED 72 VETTE

Can you recommend the SPEC twin plate, did you fit yourself?? If so any issues I need to know

95wht6spd

Do the clutch and the other things too.

45+.... Lol

Cheesecake 07

Tick MC's are good but its likely not gonna solve your problem.

Like suggested, you need an aftermarket clutch. Sucks, but I fought the same issue your having and keeping the fluid clean(to an OCD level) and replacing the MC did nothing.

Put a Mantic ER2 single in....havent had a hiccup since. Im at 488rwhp on motor and 620rwhp on n2o and a 27" ET Street. I still run GM hydraulics as I didnt like the pedal feel of the Tick.

RED 72 VETTE

Will this take the power ok, I'm not a big drag racer but I want to be able to rev the car throw the gears without a worry

neutron82

I would recommend a twin disc just in case you decide to add some more power later on, that way you have some room to grow... my act twin hasn't skipped a beat, they make good clutches but aren't popular in the corvette world for whatever reason... I would also look at the mcleod rxt or mantic 9000

Cheesecake 07

I agree with this...Although the single has taken a beating at 620rwhp/600rwtq, Im probably pushing it. Im going with the Mantic twin 9000 when its time.