Jeffdenney

I have alot of wheel hop issues and want address this quickly. summers over so I don't mind having the car apart for a bit now for R&D.

Soild mounts would be super cheap and easy for me to fab up through my work. $200 tops for soild motors and solid diff mount..

-Motors are just turned down in a lathe.. easy
-Diff mount needs a little machining to look sweet and welded.
I was thinking lowering the motors by 1" and the diff by maybe .5"


I see the torque limiting deals and I was wondering if there is any downside to going all solid?? The only downside I can think of is maybe some loss of drivetrain shock absorption, but I have wheel hop now so I would imagine thats quite a shock also.

FWIW car is mostly daily driver, occasional 1/4, and a few track days a year probably.

Pounder

you wouldn't want to go with something like this ???

k24556

Depending on how you make them "solid", it might be a good idea to consider that the engine/drivetrain is about 100 inches long, and grows thermally almost 1/8 inch from cold to operating temp. Sompin' might git in a bind.

As a suggestion, go with either OEM or a proven aftermarket.

Jeffdenney

from what I have read, that brace is more or less to strengthen and support the differential case. I dont have alot of power so idk if I need all that yet. More or less looking to prevent wheel hop and stiffen up drivetrain connections..


Thats a good point about the thermal growth. I did not think of that. None of the aftermarket stuff I've seen shows any spots for play like that. The pfadt and hosier setups don't look like they allow and forward/backward movement in the diff mount.

K-Spaz

I'd probably start by working on the suspension where the issue lies, and let the motor mounts and trans mount alone. The little bit of give in those has to be negligible vs the movement in the control arms, bushings and shocks. Either that or I'd consider new oem motor mounts and trans mount.

I don't know if you intend to drive this car also, or if it's just a drag car. If you drive it, no way would I go to solid motor mounts. But Ymmv.

Jeffdenney

What part of the suspension do you think is causing wheel hop? From what I've read, the diff and motor mounts allow the drivetrain to shake pretty violently once worn out. Mine are worn. I had the whole drivetrain out of the car and could easily flex the diff mount by hand.

I think Pfadt even has a video on youtube of the mounts significantly reducing drivetrain movement.

The car will be a track and street use car. I dont care about feeling or hearing engine and drivetrain vibrations in the cabin though. The diff is the mount im most confused about. Not much info on solid diff mounts....

K-Spaz

I'm just thinking about the physics of it. Wheelhop is a product of the rear suspension loading up and unloading the tires. Hence the reasoning behind "Traction bars".

Motor mounts are way ahead of all that movement and in a different plane. Yes, the diff transmits it to the same plane, but the shear mass of the engine and driveline (tt/diff/trans) tells me that's not going to be an item that has a substantial contribution to wheelhop. I'm not saying it does nothing, but it certainly can't be responsible the way worn out suspension bushings are. That and shocks...

I look at it like this. The trans/tt and engine are basically one great big traction bar. Any loading and unloading would almost have to be in the control arms. If someone here points out this thinking as wrong, well I'll stand corrected.

If motor mounts were indeed a contributor, I would think you'd feel a monster movement in the shifter. Maybe that's hidden by the wheelhop, I can't say. I know I have all sorts of new rear (and front) suspension components and using old trans/diff mount and motor mounts. Mine doesn't wheelhop.

kp1

Solid mounts for a daily driver is not a good idea. Every bit of harmonics/vibrations/engine and gear noise get transmitted through the frame to everything attached to it. You can easily turn a car that's lots of fun to dirve into a miserable rattle trap.

turboffr

I have the Hinson engine and trans mounts in my car and the vibration isn't bad at all. Definitely stiffens it up over stock, but in a good way.

Jeffdenney

From the sounds of it, this may be the route I go as well. Everyone advising against the solids makes rethink it a bit.

I know my shocks are less than 15k miles, so I'm doubting they are worn yet. They feel like they control the car well still. My bushing I think are factory with 78k on them, so they are due for replacement soon. I want to either do delrin there or sphericals if I can swing the dough come spring time.

I do however feel quite a bit of movement theough the shifter, so I'm pretty sure all mounts are toast.


Fine you guys talked me out of the solids. Lol

Plan now is to go with torque limiting diff mount, most likely hoosier because pfadt is too expensive.

So hinson poly 3/8" lower motor mounts or delrin?

I want it stiff, I dont care about vibs and rattling. I have also read that solids can sometimes cause knock sensor issues, and I would like to avoid that.

This is my first winter with the car so I want to upgrade/replace all the suspension and handling components so I'm getting most of my power to the ground controllably. Then cam and tunning in the spring maybe.

K-Spaz

Well, if you feel a lot of movement in the shifter then perhaps they are shot and need replaced. As you don't mind the vibration and it's effects on the car, then I say go for it. If you're currently running a stock setup (engine wise) it leads me to believe you've got other problems though.

My car has >100k miles on it. Had stock bushings that I just replaced which were in what I would have called brand new condition. I wish I could put them back in cause I don't like the poly bushings I installed. With my cam I can't imagine what my car would feel like with poly motor mounts but I assure you they wouldn't be there for long. But again, to each their own. Fwiw, mine didn't wheelhop before or after the suspension work. Ever. My motor mounts and trans mount were just fine imo so they went back in.

Johnny wangwang

Just curious...but do you have solid mounts on your Vette? Cause when I put the Pfadts in mine I couldn't notice anything but better throttle response and better feeling clutch engagement along with better shifts. Nothing in the car rattled.

Now granted my car only had 88k on it when I sold it. But those mounts were on for at least 8-9k of those miles with no rattles or annoying traits.

With a cam though....your car will shake and vibrate. But I LOVED that part!

C5 Pete

Hinson engine mounts and Hinson trans mounts.

I've installed them in all 3 of my C5s. They are of good quality and work great. I've used both the standard height and the shorter ones.

I have the Hinson mounts in my race car too.

I have a Diff brace and Energy Suspension control arm bushings.

OEM transverse leaf spring.

No wheel hop.

Jeffdenney

I convinced my girlfriend to buy me the engine and diff mounts for me for christmas. I will update once I get them installed. maybe I can take before and after vids of shifter movement for anyone who searches this thread later. It will just be no load revs because I cant drive the car for another 4-5 months. winter Michigan is in full force right now. Pumped!