[Z06] Aggressive Cam Option, Driveable
#1
Aggressive Cam Option, Driveable
So I just came back from OcMd as there was a cruise weekend. And I realized the aftermarket cam is very mild that the prior owner put in. Time to change it up. I really like that raw sound but I know if you go too aggressive it will be a pain to drive. What are some options of taking it to the point of still driveable but you get that great tone!! It's going in to get tuned and I want to do it right the first time!!!
Can any be added to this thread since it is older?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-z06-discussion/2235257-what-s-the-best-camshaft-for-my-z06-2.html
And can I go aggressive to wild?
I'm full bolt ons
Can any be added to this thread since it is older?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-z06-discussion/2235257-what-s-the-best-camshaft-for-my-z06-2.html
And can I go aggressive to wild?
I'm full bolt ons
Last edited by stilambo07; 05-16-2015 at 04:40 PM.
#3
The car is going to be driven. When it's not raining I will be driving it. Obviously I want the max hp I can get out of it. If I race it on a track it will be dragstrip once or twice a year.
#4
Race Director
what is max hp? 400-500-600-700+
all require a different approach, how long you want the engine to live is another concern.
the more aggressive cams get the harder they are on the valvetrain and the more rpm they typically spin, this shortens engine life
there are a lot of dyno tested pre made combos to research. if you're staying on 200utqg or harder street tires 400 at the wheels would be as high as i would personally want. 450max if you can live without using 1st gear much. above this it starts slowing the car down. you have no traction and it becomes harder to manage. driveline upgrades start being a concern. lot happens
the texas speed 228R cam is probably one of the most popular street/strip cams on the market, makes great power, easy to setup. will hit that 4 something at the wheels hp range
all require a different approach, how long you want the engine to live is another concern.
the more aggressive cams get the harder they are on the valvetrain and the more rpm they typically spin, this shortens engine life
there are a lot of dyno tested pre made combos to research. if you're staying on 200utqg or harder street tires 400 at the wheels would be as high as i would personally want. 450max if you can live without using 1st gear much. above this it starts slowing the car down. you have no traction and it becomes harder to manage. driveline upgrades start being a concern. lot happens
the texas speed 228R cam is probably one of the most popular street/strip cams on the market, makes great power, easy to setup. will hit that 4 something at the wheels hp range
#5
Im at 400 to the wheels now with the current mild cam. The car was tuned by cartek. Gonna get returned w new cam...would like to get to the upper 400s. Running nitto invos on the rear. Currently running 4.10 gears. Longevity is important factor.
#6
Drifting
You don't have to go max effort to get power and awesome lope. It sounds like you want lope as a priority - that mean, nasty sound - while still making good power, maintain driveability, and not have to change valve springs every weekend.
I'm running a grind that pretty much meets all of the above. You will still need dual springs.
I'm running Comp Cams at 227/231 .615/.617 and 114+2 LSA
This cam "rocks the boat" at idle, but you can tune lope in and out to some degree - depends on what you want.
My LS6 is making 490 to the wheels naturally aspirated (H/C/I).
Good luck !
I'm running a grind that pretty much meets all of the above. You will still need dual springs.
I'm running Comp Cams at 227/231 .615/.617 and 114+2 LSA
This cam "rocks the boat" at idle, but you can tune lope in and out to some degree - depends on what you want.
My LS6 is making 490 to the wheels naturally aspirated (H/C/I).
Good luck !
#7
Race Director
an invo has no hope in hell of using high 4s if you're actually wanting to be fast, you have no traction in 1st and little in 2nd. will also be sketchy at high speed
upper 4s and higher spring rates with more rebound and a toyo r888 would work, may need a bit more friction mu on the brake pads too but it could work.
invos are just silly at that power, what's the point? that tire in in trouble 100hp under that
#8
Race Director
You don't have to go max effort to get power and awesome lope. It sounds like you want lope as a priority - that mean, nasty sound - while still making good power, maintain driveability, and not have to change valve springs every weekend.
I'm running a grind that pretty much meets all of the above. You will still need dual springs.
I'm running Comp Cams at 227/231 .615/.617 and 114+2 LSA
This cam "rocks the boat" at idle, but you can tune lope in and out to some degree - depends on what you want.
My LS6 is making 490 to the wheels naturally aspirated (H/C/I).
Good luck !
I'm running a grind that pretty much meets all of the above. You will still need dual springs.
I'm running Comp Cams at 227/231 .615/.617 and 114+2 LSA
This cam "rocks the boat" at idle, but you can tune lope in and out to some degree - depends on what you want.
My LS6 is making 490 to the wheels naturally aspirated (H/C/I).
Good luck !
just don't understand the reasoning when 112 would bleed off some of the compression since i would imagine you would have an engine around 11:1 with that cam and or a larger displacement along with some monster heads . the increased overlap at 112 would also create more lope if someone wanted a dino hotrod sound
#9
You don't have to go max effort to get power and awesome lope. It sounds like you want lope as a priority - that mean, nasty sound - while still making good power, maintain driveability, and not have to change valve springs every weekend.
I'm running a grind that pretty much meets all of the above. You will still need dual springs.
I'm running Comp Cams at 227/231 .615/.617 and 114+2 LSA
This cam "rocks the boat" at idle, but you can tune lope in and out to some degree - depends on what you want.
My LS6 is making 490 to the wheels naturally aspirated (H/C/I).
Good luck !
I'm running a grind that pretty much meets all of the above. You will still need dual springs.
I'm running Comp Cams at 227/231 .615/.617 and 114+2 LSA
This cam "rocks the boat" at idle, but you can tune lope in and out to some degree - depends on what you want.
My LS6 is making 490 to the wheels naturally aspirated (H/C/I).
Good luck !
#10
Racer
Research Tony Mamo@ Mamo Motorsports, Ed Curtis @Flowtech Induction, Brian Tooley @ Brian Tooley Racing or Martin@Tick for a cam. Either of those guys can get you squared away with exactly what your looking for
Last edited by Cheesecake 07; 05-17-2015 at 12:43 PM.
#11
Race Director
I don't see any mention of your heads. Also, what do you consider "full bolt-ons"? To achieve high 400s NA takes a very optimized combination, and drivetrain mods for reliability. Invos are indeed ice skates for drag racing. I've got 325 rears, and it's basically a drift car. (not intentionally)
#12
Race Director
I daily drove a 232/240 .595/.608 on a 112. Idle was NASTY and shook the car. Loved it. Absolutely ripped to the 6800 shift point. Im going a little more aggressive this time around, as the car is down for a few weeks.
Research Tony Mamo@ Mamo Motorsports, Ed Curtis @Flowtech Induction, Brian Tooley @ Brian Tooley Racing or Martin@Tick for a cam. Either of those guys can get you squared away with exactly what your looking for
Research Tony Mamo@ Mamo Motorsports, Ed Curtis @Flowtech Induction, Brian Tooley @ Brian Tooley Racing or Martin@Tick for a cam. Either of those guys can get you squared away with exactly what your looking for
if you want to shake the car you want this, not a 114+2 LSA
that's a big cam though and you will most likely want to spin higher than the 6500 factory rev limit, 6800 red with a 6400-6500 shift would probably be a good place to start. cam will also want very free flowing heads
#13
OP.....what are the cam specs your driving now and what heads are on the car.
A cam swap isnt the magic ticket to high 400's at the wheels. You need a very good set of heads, ported FAST.....good valvetrain set-up with excellent valve control etc.
Also big cams gain you a little upstairs but come with alot of sacrifice. Once your past mid/high 220's in a 346 combo you are entering the point of diminishing returns and you trade alot to gain a little.....know that going in but there are other options and ways to achieve what your after.
Tell us more about your current combo.....I think that's helpful and a good place to start!
-Tony
PS.....You also deal with marginal piston to valve clearance with larger cams and milled heads....another problem of heading down that road.
A cam swap isnt the magic ticket to high 400's at the wheels. You need a very good set of heads, ported FAST.....good valvetrain set-up with excellent valve control etc.
Also big cams gain you a little upstairs but come with alot of sacrifice. Once your past mid/high 220's in a 346 combo you are entering the point of diminishing returns and you trade alot to gain a little.....know that going in but there are other options and ways to achieve what your after.
Tell us more about your current combo.....I think that's helpful and a good place to start!
-Tony
PS.....You also deal with marginal piston to valve clearance with larger cams and milled heads....another problem of heading down that road.
#14
Instructor
I'm ready for heads and intake after I installed a Tick SNS Torquemax Stage 3. With 1 7/8" Long tubesand 3" off road x pipe I put down a nice 447 rwhp and 406 rwtq. Sounds badass, and in my opinion is very drivable. Even my almost 70 year old dad had no problem driving it in traffic. He loved it lol.
#15
Race Director
OP.....what are the cam specs your driving now and what heads are on the car.
A cam swap isnt the magic ticket to high 400's at the wheels. You need a very good set of heads, ported FAST.....good valvetrain set-up with excellent valve control etc.
Also big cams gain you a little upstairs but come with alot of sacrifice. Once your past mid/high 220's in a 346 combo you are entering the point of diminishing returns and you trade alot to gain a little.....know that going in but there are other options and ways to achieve what your after.
Tell us more about your current combo.....I think that's helpful and a good place to start!
-Tony
PS.....You also deal with marginal piston to valve clearance with larger cams and milled heads....another problem of heading down that road.
A cam swap isnt the magic ticket to high 400's at the wheels. You need a very good set of heads, ported FAST.....good valvetrain set-up with excellent valve control etc.
Also big cams gain you a little upstairs but come with alot of sacrifice. Once your past mid/high 220's in a 346 combo you are entering the point of diminishing returns and you trade alot to gain a little.....know that going in but there are other options and ways to achieve what your after.
Tell us more about your current combo.....I think that's helpful and a good place to start!
-Tony
PS.....You also deal with marginal piston to valve clearance with larger cams and milled heads....another problem of heading down that road.
for sure
but
quite a few of these threads keep talking about lope, not what is a fast engine or one that drives pleasant
Last edited by racebum; 05-18-2015 at 03:22 AM.
#16
Drifting
Reach out or search specs by Spinmonster. Like I said, you don't need a max effort cam to get what you want. Spinmonster will be the first to tell you that. Probably Mamo too.
Find a tuner you trust. Then go.
Find a tuner you trust. Then go.
#18
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Im running the 21st CMC 600 cam its 238/240 605/609 112lsa and has a great lope. With just bolt ones and full exhaust I made 438rwhp and 409rwtq. And my opinion it is very drivable, drove it everyday until a bought a DD. Soon I want to do heads and maybe a procharger.
Last edited by zdeckich; 05-17-2015 at 11:08 PM.
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#19
Drifting
OP.....what are the cam specs your driving now and what heads are on the car.
A cam swap isnt the magic ticket to high 400's at the wheels. You need a very good set of heads, ported FAST.....good valvetrain set-up with excellent valve control etc.
Also big cams gain you a little upstairs but come with alot of sacrifice. Once your past mid/high 220's in a 346 combo you are entering the point of diminishing returns and you trade alot to gain a little.....know that going in but there are other options and ways to achieve what your after.
Tell us more about your current combo.....I think that's helpful and a good place to start!
-Tony
PS.....You also deal with marginal piston to valve clearance with larger cams and milled heads....another problem of heading down that road.
A cam swap isnt the magic ticket to high 400's at the wheels. You need a very good set of heads, ported FAST.....good valvetrain set-up with excellent valve control etc.
Also big cams gain you a little upstairs but come with alot of sacrifice. Once your past mid/high 220's in a 346 combo you are entering the point of diminishing returns and you trade alot to gain a little.....know that going in but there are other options and ways to achieve what your after.
Tell us more about your current combo.....I think that's helpful and a good place to start!
-Tony
PS.....You also deal with marginal piston to valve clearance with larger cams and milled heads....another problem of heading down that road.
Op, by the way. Did I tell you my cam and heads were spec'd by Tony Mamo ? My LS6 is packaged just as described above. 490 at the wheels. It's one bad 346 cu screamer.
Good luck !!!!
#20
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that's a hefty cam for boost, it would work just may not be optimal... people make good power with boost on the factory 02-04 z06 cam and when swapped out they generally aren't huge in comparison to n/a cams that make big power