Another What floor jack thread? Sorry!
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Another What floor jack thread? Sorry!
I've searched & read a lot of other threads my head is about to explode.
I wouldn't be asking if I could jack up the car from the sides, but my garage is not wide enough to allow me to do that. So I need something that I can jack the whole front or rear up at once for wheel removal etc.
As I understand it, the main 2 options are the AC jack (Out b/c I'm not spending that on a jack) & the Omega 29023. Are there no other jacks that will get under these cars enough to get the whole front up?
I know the crossbeam adapter from Northern Tool is no longer available. So what other options are there? (That will work with the Omega or other jack that you suggest?) I don't weld.
I wouldn't be asking if I could jack up the car from the sides, but my garage is not wide enough to allow me to do that. So I need something that I can jack the whole front or rear up at once for wheel removal etc.
As I understand it, the main 2 options are the AC jack (Out b/c I'm not spending that on a jack) & the Omega 29023. Are there no other jacks that will get under these cars enough to get the whole front up?
I know the crossbeam adapter from Northern Tool is no longer available. So what other options are there? (That will work with the Omega or other jack that you suggest?) I don't weld.
#2
Safety Car
When I had a C5, in the C5 section, I found a thread describing a make your own cross bar. I still use these home made pieces for my C6.
It consists of a 2x8 that spans the frame side to side lift points. On the ends of the 2x8 is another thickness of 2x8 (a short pad at each end) that contacts the frame points. I place a hydraulic jack in the center of the 2x8 and lift the entire front or rear of the car. I then place jack stands at the rocker frame lift points using a short 2x4 between the jack stands and the frame.
My jack is not a low profile so I drive the car up on 2 thicknesses of 2x12's so the jack and the 2x8 cross bar can clear the car.
If I am going to work under the car I place a cement block under the car as well for added safety.
It consists of a 2x8 that spans the frame side to side lift points. On the ends of the 2x8 is another thickness of 2x8 (a short pad at each end) that contacts the frame points. I place a hydraulic jack in the center of the 2x8 and lift the entire front or rear of the car. I then place jack stands at the rocker frame lift points using a short 2x4 between the jack stands and the frame.
My jack is not a low profile so I drive the car up on 2 thicknesses of 2x12's so the jack and the 2x8 cross bar can clear the car.
If I am going to work under the car I place a cement block under the car as well for added safety.
#3
Melting Slicks
Arcan 35XL will fit under the front lip of the plastic splitter... Then you can use a wood block 2x6 or so, of the correct length to span between the two frame lift points and lift the entire front of the car... Better method is two jacks and moving back and forth front to back to raise the entire car enough to get on jack stands and/or ramps. (I can't drive up ramps any of them, without hitting and pushing them)... Really any full length low profile jack can get under the front but you might need to jack up the side a little bit to get a block under one wheel before you can get under the front lip...
#4
CF Senior Member
Member Since: Feb 2006
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I might be wrong but I believe the crossbeam adaptor is still available at: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-918008/
For lifting the front or rear of the car I use a Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack with a (Northern Tool) crossbeam adapator. I slightly modified the floor jack so the pin of the adaptor beam seats fully without the need to grind-down the pin but that's another story. My car sits fairly low so I drive onto wooden ramps....2 x 10 boards for the rear and two 2 x 10's sandwiched together for the front. My Craftsman floor jack with at attached adaptor beam fits under the car just fine. Obviously, chock the tires and use jack stands for safety.
I don't know how limited you are on the sides for space but I use a small Craftsman floor jack to lift my car from the corner/side. I'm guessing it sticks out about 18". If you have any halfway reasonable walk-around space the small Craftsman floor jack might work as well. Good luck!
For lifting the front or rear of the car I use a Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack with a (Northern Tool) crossbeam adapator. I slightly modified the floor jack so the pin of the adaptor beam seats fully without the need to grind-down the pin but that's another story. My car sits fairly low so I drive onto wooden ramps....2 x 10 boards for the rear and two 2 x 10's sandwiched together for the front. My Craftsman floor jack with at attached adaptor beam fits under the car just fine. Obviously, chock the tires and use jack stands for safety.
I don't know how limited you are on the sides for space but I use a small Craftsman floor jack to lift my car from the corner/side. I'm guessing it sticks out about 18". If you have any halfway reasonable walk-around space the small Craftsman floor jack might work as well. Good luck!
#5
K...I know it's Harbor Freight... but this low profile 2 ton jack is on sale...Reg $159 on sale for $129...use the 20% coupon in the Sunday paper and it's like $103... Goes from 2 5/8" to 23 3/4":
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html
Currently, I use a Craftsman and pucks to get mine on blocks; and then I use a cut down crossbeam adaptor to get it on jack stands (I put the stands under the adaptor.) I'm considering H/F jack to eliminate the two step process, plus it should be able to get my wife's truck in the air too...
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html
Currently, I use a Craftsman and pucks to get mine on blocks; and then I use a cut down crossbeam adaptor to get it on jack stands (I put the stands under the adaptor.) I'm considering H/F jack to eliminate the two step process, plus it should be able to get my wife's truck in the air too...
Last edited by AZ_DSOM; 03-27-2012 at 01:41 AM.
#8
Racer
When I had a C5, in the C5 section, I found a thread describing a make your own cross bar. I still use these home made pieces for my C6.
It consists of a 2x8 that spans the frame side to side lift points. On the ends of the 2x8 is another thickness of 2x8 (a short pad at each end) that contacts the frame points. I place a hydraulic jack in the center of the 2x8 and lift the entire front or rear of the car. I then place jack stands at the rocker frame lift points using a short 2x4 between the jack stands and the frame.
My jack is not a low profile so I drive the car up on 2 thicknesses of 2x12's so the jack and the 2x8 cross bar can clear the car.
If I am going to work under the car I place a cement block under the car as well for added safety.
It consists of a 2x8 that spans the frame side to side lift points. On the ends of the 2x8 is another thickness of 2x8 (a short pad at each end) that contacts the frame points. I place a hydraulic jack in the center of the 2x8 and lift the entire front or rear of the car. I then place jack stands at the rocker frame lift points using a short 2x4 between the jack stands and the frame.
My jack is not a low profile so I drive the car up on 2 thicknesses of 2x12's so the jack and the 2x8 cross bar can clear the car.
If I am going to work under the car I place a cement block under the car as well for added safety.
#9
Pro
You may not want to spend the money but I have a set of 67" race ramps. Drive up, no lift of the car necessary. Light weight and easily stored.
I also have the Omega low profile jack but the Race Ramps are the easiest one step solution I use most frequently.
http://www.raceramps.com/
I also have the Omega low profile jack but the Race Ramps are the easiest one step solution I use most frequently.
http://www.raceramps.com/
#10
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: North Western Connecticut
Posts: 7,594
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I might be wrong but I believe the crossbeam adaptor is still available at: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-918008/
For lifting the front or rear of the car I use a Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack with a (Northern Tool) crossbeam adapator. I slightly modified the floor jack so the pin of the adaptor beam seats fully without the need to grind-down the pin but that's another story. My car sits fairly low so I drive onto wooden ramps....2 x 10 boards for the rear and two 2 x 10's sandwiched together for the front. My Craftsman floor jack with at attached adaptor beam fits under the car just fine. Obviously, chock the tires and use jack stands for safety.
I don't know how limited you are on the sides for space but I use a small Craftsman floor jack to lift my car from the corner/side. I'm guessing it sticks out about 18". If you have any halfway reasonable walk-around space the small Craftsman floor jack might work as well. Good luck!
For lifting the front or rear of the car I use a Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack with a (Northern Tool) crossbeam adapator. I slightly modified the floor jack so the pin of the adaptor beam seats fully without the need to grind-down the pin but that's another story. My car sits fairly low so I drive onto wooden ramps....2 x 10 boards for the rear and two 2 x 10's sandwiched together for the front. My Craftsman floor jack with at attached adaptor beam fits under the car just fine. Obviously, chock the tires and use jack stands for safety.
I don't know how limited you are on the sides for space but I use a small Craftsman floor jack to lift my car from the corner/side. I'm guessing it sticks out about 18". If you have any halfway reasonable walk-around space the small Craftsman floor jack might work as well. Good luck!
#11
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
You may not want to spend the money but I have a set of 67" race ramps. Drive up, no lift of the car necessary. Light weight and easily stored.
I also have the Omega low profile jack but the Race Ramps are the easiest one step solution I use most frequently.
http://www.raceramps.com/
I also have the Omega low profile jack but the Race Ramps are the easiest one step solution I use most frequently.
http://www.raceramps.com/
#12
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I might be wrong but I believe the crossbeam adaptor is still available at: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-918008/
For lifting the front or rear of the car I use a Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack with a (Northern Tool) crossbeam adapator. I slightly modified the floor jack so the pin of the adaptor beam seats fully without the need to grind-down the pin but that's another story. My car sits fairly low so I drive onto wooden ramps....2 x 10 boards for the rear and two 2 x 10's sandwiched together for the front. My Craftsman floor jack with at attached adaptor beam fits under the car just fine. Obviously, chock the tires and use jack stands for safety.
I don't know how limited you are on the sides for space but I use a small Craftsman floor jack to lift my car from the corner/side. I'm guessing it sticks out about 18". If you have any halfway reasonable walk-around space the small Craftsman floor jack might work as well. Good luck!
For lifting the front or rear of the car I use a Craftsman aluminum 2 ton floor jack with a (Northern Tool) crossbeam adapator. I slightly modified the floor jack so the pin of the adaptor beam seats fully without the need to grind-down the pin but that's another story. My car sits fairly low so I drive onto wooden ramps....2 x 10 boards for the rear and two 2 x 10's sandwiched together for the front. My Craftsman floor jack with at attached adaptor beam fits under the car just fine. Obviously, chock the tires and use jack stands for safety.
I don't know how limited you are on the sides for space but I use a small Craftsman floor jack to lift my car from the corner/side. I'm guessing it sticks out about 18". If you have any halfway reasonable walk-around space the small Craftsman floor jack might work as well. Good luck!
I've owned 2 of the Craftsman jacks & both went out within a year. Never again.
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
K...I know it's Harbor Freight... but this low profile 2 ton jack is on sale...Reg $159 on sale for $129...use the 20% coupon in the Sunday paper and it's like $103... Goes from 2 5/8" to 23 3/4":
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html
Currently, I use a Craftsman and pucks to get mine on blocks; and then I use a cut down crossbeam adaptor to get it on jack stands (I put the stands under the adaptor.) I'm considering H/F jack to eliminate the two step process, plus it should be able to get my wife's truck in the air too...
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-l...ump-68050.html
Currently, I use a Craftsman and pucks to get mine on blocks; and then I use a cut down crossbeam adaptor to get it on jack stands (I put the stands under the adaptor.) I'm considering H/F jack to eliminate the two step process, plus it should be able to get my wife's truck in the air too...
#14
Safety Car
Drive onto wood planks or DIY ramps... the extra clearance should be enough for most floor jacks + cross adapter.
Of course, you won't know for sure until you try it.
BTW, I'm very pleased with the Harbor Freight economy jack I got on sale ($60) last summer:
http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...html?hftref=cj
Haven't tried it yet for front or rear access -- I have a 2-car garage, so I've got easy side access.
Of course, you won't know for sure until you try it.
BTW, I'm very pleased with the Harbor Freight economy jack I got on sale ($60) last summer:
http://www.harborfreight.com/rapid-p...html?hftref=cj
Haven't tried it yet for front or rear access -- I have a 2-car garage, so I've got easy side access.
#15
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: North Western Connecticut
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Either you were very unlucky or I've been very lucky! Had mine going on 5 years and even lift my 6800 lb F150 with it... no problems, no leaks... works great and use it all the time with my 3 vehicles!
#17
Melting Slicks
Don't buy any Craftsman jack without first checking the reviews on Sears' own website! A lot of their jacks leak...about 5 minutes after the warranty period expires.
Just because it says "Craftsman" on the side of a jack doesn't mean it was well-made...and it doesn't mean the jack has a decent warranty. Look closely. A lot of their jacks are made in China and only come with a 12 month warranty. You might as well save your money and buy the same thing from Harbor Freight for half the cost.
Just because it says "Craftsman" on the side of a jack doesn't mean it was well-made...and it doesn't mean the jack has a decent warranty. Look closely. A lot of their jacks are made in China and only come with a 12 month warranty. You might as well save your money and buy the same thing from Harbor Freight for half the cost.
#18
Burning Brakes
Just received a circular from Harbor Freight. Starting April 1 (not a joke) they have one of their 3 ton rapid pump jacks on sale for $79.99.
But, you will need the coupon (which many times you can pick up in the store) for that price.
Oh and regarding Craftsman Tools. I don't believe Sears is using quality manufacturers any longer. The tools of today are a far cry from what they used to be. I have a Band Saw and a Drill Press purchased about 15 years ago. Todays models are not even close to that quality. Now with all this being said, I mentioned a HF floor jack. But in my experience, this is probably better than the Craftsman equipment and far cheaper.
For example, my wife, for a Christmas gift bought me a COMPLETE woodworking shop by Craftsman Professional grade......Tablesaw, router and table, miter saw and stand, etc. I returned them all after assembling the table saw......I just was not happen with the precision that it lacked. Purchased a couple of Porter-Cable items and looking for other replacements.
But, you will need the coupon (which many times you can pick up in the store) for that price.
Oh and regarding Craftsman Tools. I don't believe Sears is using quality manufacturers any longer. The tools of today are a far cry from what they used to be. I have a Band Saw and a Drill Press purchased about 15 years ago. Todays models are not even close to that quality. Now with all this being said, I mentioned a HF floor jack. But in my experience, this is probably better than the Craftsman equipment and far cheaper.
For example, my wife, for a Christmas gift bought me a COMPLETE woodworking shop by Craftsman Professional grade......Tablesaw, router and table, miter saw and stand, etc. I returned them all after assembling the table saw......I just was not happen with the precision that it lacked. Purchased a couple of Porter-Cable items and looking for other replacements.
Last edited by RnLi; 03-27-2012 at 10:21 PM.
#20
Le Mans Master
I have this jack and its the best IMO, Michelin 3 1/2 Ton Garage Floor Car Jack. It has a rubber pad built into the lifting point that fits perfectly into the lifiing point so no reason for a jacking puck. It will fit under the front or rear of a non lowered C6 and has a full 22" lift. I recommend it, I have had mine 4 years and no issues at all.
The bad new's about this jack is it may be hard to find, I am looking online now and can't seem to find it for sale, Amazon says they are sold out.
http://www.amazon.com/Michelin-Ton-G...ef=pd_sxp_f_pt
The bad new's about this jack is it may be hard to find, I am looking online now and can't seem to find it for sale, Amazon says they are sold out.
http://www.amazon.com/Michelin-Ton-G...ef=pd_sxp_f_pt