Column lock
#1
Column lock
I am tired of my car giving me the service column lock message and not starting. In order for it to start again I have to disconnect the battery for like 10 seconds and bam it starts. I have read that this problem is common but want to know what to replace, the battery, the column lock, or if the bypass for the lock resolve this problem. Please help me before I burn this car up its getting on my nerves. Thanks for your replies in advance. Happy New Year!
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: North Royalton Ohio
Posts: 802
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I am tired of my car giving me the service column lock message and not starting. In order for it to start again I have to disconnect the battery for like 10 seconds and bam it starts. I have read that this problem is common but want to know what to replace, the battery, the column lock, or if the bypass for the lock resolve this problem. Please help me before I burn this car up its getting on my nerves. Thanks for your replies in advance. Happy New Year!
Wondering if the lack of responses is that yours is an C5 model and posted on wrong Forum. I wasn't aware C6's had this malady.
#3
Let me guess,
2005 manual.
Here for the eliminator,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82
Here is how to install it.
Note: put a thing towel on the top of the steering column when you pull the gauge cluster so you do not scratch the plastic, and make sure that the OEM column lock is unlocked (car in on position) before you unplug it to plug the eliminator in.
As for replacing it with a new column lock (dealer will charge around $800), forget it since you will be inn the same boat shortly. The gears on the lock are made out of plastic, in time the gears start to bind up to cause the same problem again. Could be a year, or could be a few year, but it will happen again.
2005 manual.
Here for the eliminator,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82
Here is how to install it.
Note: put a thing towel on the top of the steering column when you pull the gauge cluster so you do not scratch the plastic, and make sure that the OEM column lock is unlocked (car in on position) before you unplug it to plug the eliminator in.
As for replacing it with a new column lock (dealer will charge around $800), forget it since you will be inn the same boat shortly. The gears on the lock are made out of plastic, in time the gears start to bind up to cause the same problem again. Could be a year, or could be a few year, but it will happen again.
#4
Let me guess,
2005 manual.
Here for the eliminator,
2005 C6 Corvette Steering Column Lock Bypass Simple Plug No Hard Wiring | eBay
Here is how to install it.
Note: put a thing towel on the top of the steering column when you pull the gauge cluster so you do not scratch the plastic, and make sure that the OEM column lock is unlocked (car in on position) before you unplug it to plug the eliminator in.
MOV00425 - YouTube
As for replacing it with a new column lock (dealer will charge around $800), forget it since you will be inn the same boat shortly. The gears on the lock are made out of plastic, in time the gears start to bind up to cause the same problem again. Could be a year, or could be a few year, but it will happen again.
2005 manual.
Here for the eliminator,
2005 C6 Corvette Steering Column Lock Bypass Simple Plug No Hard Wiring | eBay
Here is how to install it.
Note: put a thing towel on the top of the steering column when you pull the gauge cluster so you do not scratch the plastic, and make sure that the OEM column lock is unlocked (car in on position) before you unplug it to plug the eliminator in.
MOV00425 - YouTube
As for replacing it with a new column lock (dealer will charge around $800), forget it since you will be inn the same boat shortly. The gears on the lock are made out of plastic, in time the gears start to bind up to cause the same problem again. Could be a year, or could be a few year, but it will happen again.
#5
Making CFOT Great Again
Just FYI, the problem isn't always the lock mechanism. Sometimes the control module is the part that goes bad, in which case the aftermarket bypass won't help you. At ~$70 it's worth trying the bypass first, but if you still have problems you'll have to bite the bullet and get a new SCLCM.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#6
And again, the OEM steering lock has gear problems (plastic gears start to bind over time), do not last long, and a huge reason that GM eliminated them on the 2006 and up models.
#7
Burning Brakes
It's only been a few months but the bypass has worked for me so far... It's cheap and relatively easy, so I would do it ASAP.
#9
Race Director
A CLB is exactly what you're looking for, will turn your '05 MN6 into what you wanted: a reasonably reliable fun car. G/L on your decision.
#11
Race Director
Do a WWW search using 'Corvette C6 Column Lock Bypass'.
You'll get hundreds of hits, many from this forum.
Links will help locating sponsor(s) since they're nested within CF links dealing with the annoying CL.
#12
Burning Brakes
#14
Short version, the vendor I listed is the guy that designed, and started to make them first (was with corvettes of Houston). Him and COH had a falling out, so COH had someone else produce them for them instead.
The design is simple (about $20 in parts from Mouser,) and the whole trick to building it, is not to over heat the legs of the locking relay when you are soldering the parts together.
Short version on the steering column lock, two wires for voltage to send the lock into lock and unlock position (current just reversed to switch the lock in the other needed direction), and the other two wires are for resistance back so the lock module to tell if the lock is all the unlocked, or locked.
The eliminator is just a locking relay, and is switch from one position to the other through the same power wires as the OEM steering lock to drive the coil side of the relay to switch it. On the relay contacters side, resistors to give the same resistance values as the OEM steering column lock in the lock and unlock position (two different resistances).
So, the lock module does not know the difference between the lock or the eliminator. But even better, since the eliminator uses way less amperage to drive the relay coils, and even works down to as low as 10 Volts, even solves the problem of a dodgy lock module relay that may not be allowing full amperage for the steering column lock to work in the first place.
And again, all the OEM steering column lock pieces are left in the car (just in the unlocked postion unplugged), so if you ever want to remove the eliminator and plug the steering column lock back in, its the same process as when you install the eliminator to begin with.
Bluntly, on my 05, it was the first thing that I installed, even with a working steering column lock. The C5's all had problems with the same, and as stated, it was not a if, but when the OEM lock with plastic gears was going to go south; leaving you with the only other option of having the car towed to the dealer to have the lock replaced (read if the lock module is not getting back the correct resistor value on the signal lines to tell it that the steering column lock in in the correct position, your not going to be able to start the car.)
#15
Short version, the vendor I listed is the guy that designed, and started to make them first (was with corvettes of Houston). Him and COH had a falling out, so COH had someone else produce them for them instead.
The design is simple (about $20 in parts from Mouser,) and the whole trick to building it, is not to over heat the legs of the locking relay when you are soldering the parts together.
Short version on the steering column lock, two wires for voltage to send the lock into lock and unlock position (current just reversed to switch the lock in the other needed direction), and the other two wires are for resistance back so the lock module to tell if the lock is all the unlocked, or locked.
The eliminator is just a locking relay, and is switch from one position to the other through the same power wires as the OEM steering lock to drive the coil side of the relay to switch it. On the relay contacters side, resistors to give the same resistance values as the OEM steering column lock in the lock and unlock position (two different resistances).
So, the lock module does not know the difference between the lock or the eliminator. But even better, since the eliminator uses way less amperage to drive the relay coils, and even works down to as low as 10 Volts, even solves the problem of a dodgy lock module relay that may not be allowing full amperage for the steering column lock to work in the first place.
And again, all the OEM steering column lock pieces are left in the car (just in the unlocked postion unplugged), so if you ever want to remove the eliminator and plug the steering column lock back in, its the same process as when you install the eliminator to begin with.
Bluntly, on my 05, it was the first thing that I installed, even with a working steering column lock. The C5's all had problems with the same, and as stated, it was not a if, but when the OEM lock with plastic gears was going to go south; leaving you with the only other option of having the car towed to the dealer to have the lock replaced (read if the lock module is not getting back the correct resistor value on the signal lines to tell it that the steering column lock in in the correct position, your not going to be able to start the car.)
The design is simple (about $20 in parts from Mouser,) and the whole trick to building it, is not to over heat the legs of the locking relay when you are soldering the parts together.
Short version on the steering column lock, two wires for voltage to send the lock into lock and unlock position (current just reversed to switch the lock in the other needed direction), and the other two wires are for resistance back so the lock module to tell if the lock is all the unlocked, or locked.
The eliminator is just a locking relay, and is switch from one position to the other through the same power wires as the OEM steering lock to drive the coil side of the relay to switch it. On the relay contacters side, resistors to give the same resistance values as the OEM steering column lock in the lock and unlock position (two different resistances).
So, the lock module does not know the difference between the lock or the eliminator. But even better, since the eliminator uses way less amperage to drive the relay coils, and even works down to as low as 10 Volts, even solves the problem of a dodgy lock module relay that may not be allowing full amperage for the steering column lock to work in the first place.
And again, all the OEM steering column lock pieces are left in the car (just in the unlocked postion unplugged), so if you ever want to remove the eliminator and plug the steering column lock back in, its the same process as when you install the eliminator to begin with.
Bluntly, on my 05, it was the first thing that I installed, even with a working steering column lock. The C5's all had problems with the same, and as stated, it was not a if, but when the OEM lock with plastic gears was going to go south; leaving you with the only other option of having the car towed to the dealer to have the lock replaced (read if the lock module is not getting back the correct resistor value on the signal lines to tell it that the steering column lock in in the correct position, your not going to be able to start the car.)
#17
Pro
is the C6 module in a different location than on the C5 ( MN6) ?
I had to remove the lower part of the dash under the steering column to plug in the CLB unit. Took about an hour due to the laying upside down in the seat to get my hands in there.was not fun at all,but , it did the trick,never had a problem again in my 2000 MN6.
I had to remove the lower part of the dash under the steering column to plug in the CLB unit. Took about an hour due to the laying upside down in the seat to get my hands in there.was not fun at all,but , it did the trick,never had a problem again in my 2000 MN6.
#18
I have installed the by pass and after three weeks the problem seems to be a thing of the past. Followed the step by step video and was done in like an hour. If anybody else is having this problem buy the bypass that will solve your headaches.
#20
Instructor
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Atlanta GA
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Hey guys, I have an '05 manual and installed the column lock kit. It helped for a while but my problems came back.
The fix that worked for me was from a post a while back (I'll see if I can find it). What I did was disconnect the two big fuse connectors in the passenger footwell (connected to the perimeter of the BCM, they are blue in my car I think). I put dielectric grease liberally all over the holes and reconnected those two connectors. Voila, my problems were gone for over a year before they came back. Repeated and gone again. Worked for me, hope this helps
-Tico
The fix that worked for me was from a post a while back (I'll see if I can find it). What I did was disconnect the two big fuse connectors in the passenger footwell (connected to the perimeter of the BCM, they are blue in my car I think). I put dielectric grease liberally all over the holes and reconnected those two connectors. Voila, my problems were gone for over a year before they came back. Repeated and gone again. Worked for me, hope this helps
-Tico