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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 01:37 PM
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I am tired of my car giving me the service column lock message and not starting. In order for it to start again I have to disconnect the battery for like 10 seconds and bam it starts. I have read that this problem is common but want to know what to replace, the battery, the column lock, or if the bypass for the lock resolve this problem. Please help me before I burn this car up its getting on my nerves. Thanks for your replies in advance. Happy New Year!
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
I am tired of my car giving me the service column lock message and not starting. In order for it to start again I have to disconnect the battery for like 10 seconds and bam it starts. I have read that this problem is common but want to know what to replace, the battery, the column lock, or if the bypass for the lock resolve this problem. Please help me before I burn this car up its getting on my nerves. Thanks for your replies in advance. Happy New Year!
My previous '98 had this problem and was corrected under the then GM service bulletin, could have been a recall can't remember. Recalls are generally for the life of the vehicle. Call any Chevrolet dealer with your VIN to see if anything is active.

Wondering if the lack of responses is that yours is an C5 model and posted on wrong Forum. I wasn't aware C6's had this malady.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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Let me guess,
2005 manual.
Here for the eliminator,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82
Here is how to install it.
Note: put a thing towel on the top of the steering column when you pull the gauge cluster so you do not scratch the plastic, and make sure that the OEM column lock is unlocked (car in on position) before you unplug it to plug the eliminator in.





As for replacing it with a new column lock (dealer will charge around $800), forget it since you will be inn the same boat shortly. The gears on the lock are made out of plastic, in time the gears start to bind up to cause the same problem again. Could be a year, or could be a few year, but it will happen again.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Let me guess,
2005 manual.
Here for the eliminator,
2005 C6 Corvette Steering Column Lock Bypass Simple Plug No Hard Wiring | eBay

Here is how to install it.
Note: put a thing towel on the top of the steering column when you pull the gauge cluster so you do not scratch the plastic, and make sure that the OEM column lock is unlocked (car in on position) before you unplug it to plug the eliminator in.

MOV00425 - YouTube







As for replacing it with a new column lock (dealer will charge around $800), forget it since you will be inn the same boat shortly. The gears on the lock are made out of plastic, in time the gears start to bind up to cause the same problem again. Could be a year, or could be a few year, but it will happen again.
Yes it is a C6 2005 manual transmission. So the best thing to do is to bypass the column lock with the bypass? If I decide to put a new column lock myself does it need to be reprogrammed? Thanks for your replies.
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 08:31 PM
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Just FYI, the problem isn't always the lock mechanism. Sometimes the control module is the part that goes bad, in which case the aftermarket bypass won't help you. At ~$70 it's worth trying the bypass first, but if you still have problems you'll have to bite the bullet and get a new SCLCM.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 27, 2014 | 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
Yes it is a C6 2005 manual transmission. So the best thing to do is to bypass the column lock with the bypass? If I decide to put a new column lock myself does it need to be reprogrammed? Thanks for your replies.
Steering column lock itself, around $400 and you have to pull the most of the steering column/steering wheel assembly apart to replace it. No on needing programing for just the OEM lock replacement/ eliminator install ,but if the lock module is bad (what the lock/eliminator plugs into), yes on needing Tech II re-programing after it replaced.

And again, the OEM steering lock has gear problems (plastic gears start to bind over time), do not last long, and a huge reason that GM eliminated them on the 2006 and up models.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
Yes it is a C6 2005 manual transmission. So the best thing to do is to bypass the column lock with the bypass? If I decide to put a new column lock myself does it need to be reprogrammed? Thanks for your replies.
It's only been a few months but the bypass has worked for me so far... It's cheap and relatively easy, so I would do it ASAP.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 11:03 AM
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If I install the bypass will it bring bigger problems in the future? I read somewhere that it would damage the computer or something to that effect.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
If I install the bypass will it bring bigger problems in the future? I read somewhere that it would damage the computer or something to that effect.
Every single '05 member who experienced this PITA couldn't be happier after installing the eliminator, bought it from a forum sponsor FWIW. Moreover I've never read of computer failure/damage the result of a CLC installation.

A CLB is exactly what you're looking for, will turn your '05 MN6 into what you wanted: a reasonably reliable fun car. G/L on your decision.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Is it the same as the one dano523 is recommending? If not do you have the info of the forum sponsor?
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
Is it the same as the one dano523 is recommending? If not do you have the info of the forum sponsor?
Sorry I can't recall the vendor(s) here but they're around, hopefully another member will help. Former & present '05 owners are well represented at CF.

Do a WWW search using 'Corvette C6 Column Lock Bypass'.
You'll get hundreds of hits, many from this forum.
Links will help locating sponsor(s) since they're nested within CF links dealing with the annoying CL.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
Is it the same as the one dano523 is recommending? If not do you have the info of the forum sponsor?
Got mine from VZ auto works.

vzautoworks.com

281-255-8665

Last edited by slickstick; Dec 28, 2014 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 03:38 PM
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Just ordered bypass will keep you all posted if that did the trick. Fingers crossed.
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Old Dec 28, 2014 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
Is it the same as the one dano523 is recommending? If not do you have the info of the forum sponsor?


Short version, the vendor I listed is the guy that designed, and started to make them first (was with corvettes of Houston). Him and COH had a falling out, so COH had someone else produce them for them instead.

The design is simple (about $20 in parts from Mouser,) and the whole trick to building it, is not to over heat the legs of the locking relay when you are soldering the parts together.

Short version on the steering column lock, two wires for voltage to send the lock into lock and unlock position (current just reversed to switch the lock in the other needed direction), and the other two wires are for resistance back so the lock module to tell if the lock is all the unlocked, or locked.

The eliminator is just a locking relay, and is switch from one position to the other through the same power wires as the OEM steering lock to drive the coil side of the relay to switch it. On the relay contacters side, resistors to give the same resistance values as the OEM steering column lock in the lock and unlock position (two different resistances).

So, the lock module does not know the difference between the lock or the eliminator. But even better, since the eliminator uses way less amperage to drive the relay coils, and even works down to as low as 10 Volts, even solves the problem of a dodgy lock module relay that may not be allowing full amperage for the steering column lock to work in the first place.

And again, all the OEM steering column lock pieces are left in the car (just in the unlocked postion unplugged), so if you ever want to remove the eliminator and plug the steering column lock back in, its the same process as when you install the eliminator to begin with.

Bluntly, on my 05, it was the first thing that I installed, even with a working steering column lock. The C5's all had problems with the same, and as stated, it was not a if, but when the OEM lock with plastic gears was going to go south; leaving you with the only other option of having the car towed to the dealer to have the lock replaced (read if the lock module is not getting back the correct resistor value on the signal lines to tell it that the steering column lock in in the correct position, your not going to be able to start the car.)
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Dano523
Short version, the vendor I listed is the guy that designed, and started to make them first (was with corvettes of Houston). Him and COH had a falling out, so COH had someone else produce them for them instead.

The design is simple (about $20 in parts from Mouser,) and the whole trick to building it, is not to over heat the legs of the locking relay when you are soldering the parts together.

Short version on the steering column lock, two wires for voltage to send the lock into lock and unlock position (current just reversed to switch the lock in the other needed direction), and the other two wires are for resistance back so the lock module to tell if the lock is all the unlocked, or locked.




The eliminator is just a locking relay, and is switch from one position to the other through the same power wires as the OEM steering lock to drive the coil side of the relay to switch it. On the relay contacters side, resistors to give the same resistance values as the OEM steering column lock in the lock and unlock position (two different resistances).





So, the lock module does not know the difference between the lock or the eliminator. But even better, since the eliminator uses way less amperage to drive the relay coils, and even works down to as low as 10 Volts, even solves the problem of a dodgy lock module relay that may not be allowing full amperage for the steering column lock to work in the first place.

And again, all the OEM steering column lock pieces are left in the car (just in the unlocked postion unplugged), so if you ever want to remove the eliminator and plug the steering column lock back in, its the same process as when you install the eliminator to begin with.

Bluntly, on my 05, it was the first thing that I installed, even with a working steering column lock. The C5's all had problems with the same, and as stated, it was not a if, but when the OEM lock with plastic gears was going to go south; leaving you with the only other option of having the car towed to the dealer to have the lock replaced (read if the lock module is not getting back the correct resistor value on the signal lines to tell it that the steering column lock in in the correct position, your not going to be able to start the car.)
Dano 523 thanks for all your info. Will try the bypass and keep you all posted. Thanks corvette forum.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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Thanks corvette forum for the guidance. Bought the bypass hopefully that does the trick.
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Old Dec 29, 2014 | 06:54 PM
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is the C6 module in a different location than on the C5 ( MN6) ?
I had to remove the lower part of the dash under the steering column to plug in the CLB unit. Took about an hour due to the laying upside down in the seat to get my hands in there.was not fun at all,but , it did the trick,never had a problem again in my 2000 MN6.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 09:46 PM
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I have installed the by pass and after three weeks the problem seems to be a thing of the past. Followed the step by step video and was done in like an hour. If anybody else is having this problem buy the bypass that will solve your headaches.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jnino14
I have installed the by pass and after three weeks the problem seems to be a thing of the past. Followed the step by step video and was done in like an hour. If anybody else is having this problem buy the bypass that will solve your headaches.
Good news. I installed mine about a year ago. I didn't have a problem I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't. So far so good.
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Old Jan 23, 2015 | 10:12 PM
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Hey guys, I have an '05 manual and installed the column lock kit. It helped for a while but my problems came back.

The fix that worked for me was from a post a while back (I'll see if I can find it). What I did was disconnect the two big fuse connectors in the passenger footwell (connected to the perimeter of the BCM, they are blue in my car I think). I put dielectric grease liberally all over the holes and reconnected those two connectors. Voila, my problems were gone for over a year before they came back. Repeated and gone again. Worked for me, hope this helps

-Tico
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