Front & rear backup / parking cameras , installation
07-14-2015, 11:46 AM
#1
Drifting
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Member Since: Feb 2012
Location: skiatook oklahoma
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Front & rear backup / parking cameras , installation
Stuff i used to install both front and rear cameras...
A- monitor with duel input (to have front & back) , 3.5"
B- camera for front
C- camera for rear (special usage explained later)
D- fuse for 'add a circuit' , 2 or 3 as low amp used
E- zip ties
F- ground connectors , 2 used
G- line connectors , red ones better as wire is smaller generally
H- quick connectors , 2 used to connect to rear backup lights for rear cam
I- 3M tape SJ3560
J- button switch
K- extra length of RCA cord to get from rear to monitor
L- some red and black wire
N- good ole black electrical tape
O- touch-up paint for rear cam (optional)
P- add a circuit
Q- split wire cover
R- black RTV
i shop alot at Amazon, but seriously, searching you can find this everywhere, maybe even paid vendors here!!
A - 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile (note: to pop the back stand off, twist it upside down, pop off carefully)
B - Esky EC170-06 World Smallest HD Color CCD Waterproof Vehicle Car Rear View Backup Camera, 170 Degree Viewing Angle Rearview Camera(0.86*0.65*0.50 inch)
C - 1/4" CCD Flush Mount Waterproof Truck Car Reverse Backup Rear View Camera , something i didnt try, it looks sorta large, but would function great to swivel down some in the 'fixed' hole!!...... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle....... SEE NOTE ADDED AT BOTTOM ABOUT REAR CAM
G - Huaha Terminal E-FMY250N-50 22/18-Gauge Economy Nylon Fully-Insulated Male-Female Quick Disconnects
H - Bluecell Pack of 50pcs Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector, 22-18 Wire Range
I - 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1 in x 6 Ft
J - Joyluxy® QN16C2 Latching Metal Push Button Switch 3A/250VAC 1NO1NC SPDT ON/OFF Industrial Car Switch with 5 Pins Suitable for 16mm 5/8" Mounting Hole - Black Shell Blue Light (or this switch.. iiMash 16mm 12V Black Plastic Self-locking Annular Blue Led Lighted Push Button Switch)
K - RCA Audio / Video Extension Cable, RCA Male to RCA Female, 12 foot
P - E Support 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5
Q - Install Bay Split Loom 1/4 Inch 100 Foot Coil - SLT14
R - J-B Weld 31319 Black RTV Sealant - 3 oz.
Front view
I used zip-ties to give some slack to the line coming out of the cam , but fasten the line in place before heading into engine compartment
Note that the line enters a small preexisting gap (purple circle) , you can see the gap light if you look in the grill, i used a clothes hanger to poke in the gap and pull the cam line through the slit. Then used RTV to re-close the gap and prevent rain water from entering while driving. Red line shows wire from cam. Red circle a good place for cam ground.
The red circles is where you can pass line inside, and comes out at the purple circle , used clothes hanger again to attach line and pull it through. You can pass the line under the rubber door seal to enter cabin.
Line enters cabin and goes up as noted in red line. Yellow circles are where i cut vent attachments so that i could pass the monitor cable ends through the vent. Monitor plug ends are attached to the cam RCA cable and the positive line from cam (positive & negative from fuse panel through switch will attached later)
Monitor 3.5" turned sideways to fit in the space.
Purple line is + from from cam and monitor along with - from monitor (- from cam was grounded earlier in engine compartment), heading into cabin to be attached to console switch. red line is cam rca cable arriving from the rear (shown later). blue is cam rca cable from front cam.
Purple line is again, the + & - wires heading to console on/off switch. (should have used split cable cover, will later)
+/- from wiper 'add a circuit' heading for the on/off button switch
Button switch. You will have to raise the console about 6", do not have to totally remove it. Be careful to drill the hole about 1/8" below the white thread. Inside you will have to put on the button switch nut and you need a little space above it, plus you cut into the white trim thread and it will fray and not be neat. Hole must not be bigger than the switch part you insert, the button lip on the outside is small, you wouldnt want the switch to fall in the first time you press it!! Recommend you drill test hole in some scrap, test fit!! You can have led never on, on only when pressed, or on all the time you have power from fuse panel. (i did all the time when power present, your choice). Also you can have momentary or clickon/clickoff. (momentary seems bad to press and drive) Here is a nice UTube to understand how to raise the console enough to reach under, which is all you need to do. The part about removing the gearshift **** can be bypassed. You need only watch until 8min10sec, at which point you can reach under. Hint: solder your three 8-12" leads on the switch , insulate solder points VERY good, then insert leads and switch into hole from outside, thread three switch leads into nut, run nut to switch and screw on tight, then attach your three leads to + in from fuse panel, +out to front cam&monitor, -wire to monitor&fuse panel ground.
Power on distance test. (actually after i got rear & front completed)
Installed rear camera, top two are before touchup painted. (painted the tag screw/bolts while doing cam touchup!)
The rear cam kit had a drill "D" , outside of hole ring "A" that will be unscrewed from actual cam "B". "C" is a metal prong ring that will be inside of the drilled hole so cam wont fall out of the car, the ring "A" screws on outside car so cam doesn't fall inside (you'll figure this out when you get the kit and try it in the hole you drill). Remove both right hand tail lights , reach in, make sure where you drill, you wont drill into some existing wire bundles. I unscrewed "A" held it against car where i wanted to drill, drew a circle around it on the car for drill location. Pulled "A" away, put drill in middle of the circle i drew, drilled hole. Its final, do it right, you have a hole!!! Put cam from inside into hole, screw "A" back onto cam. Cam +/- wire will go to wire bundle to... backup light + is light green wire (NOT dark green!) and backup light - is black wire, bundle is inside right taillight and down a little, you can disconnect and pull it out. Use clam style quick connectors to get your + to light green and your - to black wire. The cam RCA cable will have to go through the plastic into the car, open cover inside see where it's safe to drill, drill through plastic as shown in the right hand picture (i found from another person's posting) , run rca cam cable from inside taillight area into inside of car. Use black RTV to plug hole where rca cable went through.
Red line shows where RCA rear cam cable runs. You can easily tuck it under trim & rubber seals. I had mine in split cable cover, you probably don't have to use it. The bottom right just shows where to tuck all your extra rca cable and zip tie it.
Red line is the rear cam RCA cable still heading for the monitor. Purple is the +/- heading from monitor (and + from front cam) heading for on/off switch. Blue was the front cam RCA cable
All attached
This shows you the 3M SJ3560 used to attach the monitor to dash area. Neat stuff, NO HOLES drilled!!!
Back up cam view. Engine running, on/off button pressed and car in reverse. The monitor has duel cam inputs, it shows cam 1 (yellow monitor plug) and automaticly switches to cam 2 if a signal is activated on it (white monitor plug).
Note... the rear cam can NOT be tilted as it's firm in the drilled hole. If you want to point down and see closer to the rear of the car, the 'cam in hole' is not a good idea. You can just attach the cam using same bracket like front cam, so you can tilt it wherever you want. Oh, do NOT bend the cam brackets more than 3 times, the metal doesn't bend well and just snaps.
Also you will need someone to help you line up the cams, just turn them to get a right-side-up and level view.
If you want to sit at your workspace (or kitchen counter) and hook up frontcam/rearcam/monitor/switch as a temporary test (before spending hours installing wires and stuff) , get one of these and use it for your testing battery source (or solder wires to 9v)...
The cams and monitor take so little power, a 9volt works just fine!!!!!!!!!!
If you give up trying to figure out the pins on the switch, then look at this (i went crazy before i found this diagram!!!! lol) Hooked up with 'on all the time power present' as noted in bottom right in BLUE
I ordered this for the rear cam , to see if it was better than the one i had installed... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle..... I wanted to see if it was small enough to sorta hide, if you could paint it up to help make it hide, see if it would really tilt and sorta look down in order to actually see distance from rear to where you were backing into. The answers are all YES. I would have used this instead if i had bought it in the first place. Now that i have it, i will most likely go ahead and switch it out with what i had installed. Here are 3 pictures, what came in the box, how the cam tilts in its frame and locks down with allen screw, and the outer ring unscrewed. Oh, it also came with about 19' of RCA cable, so you would NOT have to purchase a RCA cable seperate, you will have more than necessary.
A- monitor with duel input (to have front & back) , 3.5"
B- camera for front
C- camera for rear (special usage explained later)
D- fuse for 'add a circuit' , 2 or 3 as low amp used
E- zip ties
F- ground connectors , 2 used
G- line connectors , red ones better as wire is smaller generally
H- quick connectors , 2 used to connect to rear backup lights for rear cam
I- 3M tape SJ3560
J- button switch
K- extra length of RCA cord to get from rear to monitor
L- some red and black wire
N- good ole black electrical tape
O- touch-up paint for rear cam (optional)
P- add a circuit
Q- split wire cover
R- black RTV
i shop alot at Amazon, but seriously, searching you can find this everywhere, maybe even paid vendors here!!
A - 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor for Car / Automobile (note: to pop the back stand off, twist it upside down, pop off carefully)
B - Esky EC170-06 World Smallest HD Color CCD Waterproof Vehicle Car Rear View Backup Camera, 170 Degree Viewing Angle Rearview Camera(0.86*0.65*0.50 inch)
C - 1/4" CCD Flush Mount Waterproof Truck Car Reverse Backup Rear View Camera , something i didnt try, it looks sorta large, but would function great to swivel down some in the 'fixed' hole!!...... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle....... SEE NOTE ADDED AT BOTTOM ABOUT REAR CAM
G - Huaha Terminal E-FMY250N-50 22/18-Gauge Economy Nylon Fully-Insulated Male-Female Quick Disconnects
H - Bluecell Pack of 50pcs Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector, 22-18 Wire Range
I - 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener SJ3560 250 Clear, 1 in x 6 Ft
J - Joyluxy® QN16C2 Latching Metal Push Button Switch 3A/250VAC 1NO1NC SPDT ON/OFF Industrial Car Switch with 5 Pins Suitable for 16mm 5/8" Mounting Hole - Black Shell Blue Light (or this switch.. iiMash 16mm 12V Black Plastic Self-locking Annular Blue Led Lighted Push Button Switch)
K - RCA Audio / Video Extension Cable, RCA Male to RCA Female, 12 foot
P - E Support 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5
Q - Install Bay Split Loom 1/4 Inch 100 Foot Coil - SLT14
R - J-B Weld 31319 Black RTV Sealant - 3 oz.
Front view
I used zip-ties to give some slack to the line coming out of the cam , but fasten the line in place before heading into engine compartment
Note that the line enters a small preexisting gap (purple circle) , you can see the gap light if you look in the grill, i used a clothes hanger to poke in the gap and pull the cam line through the slit. Then used RTV to re-close the gap and prevent rain water from entering while driving. Red line shows wire from cam. Red circle a good place for cam ground.
The red circles is where you can pass line inside, and comes out at the purple circle , used clothes hanger again to attach line and pull it through. You can pass the line under the rubber door seal to enter cabin.
Line enters cabin and goes up as noted in red line. Yellow circles are where i cut vent attachments so that i could pass the monitor cable ends through the vent. Monitor plug ends are attached to the cam RCA cable and the positive line from cam (positive & negative from fuse panel through switch will attached later)
Monitor 3.5" turned sideways to fit in the space.
Purple line is + from from cam and monitor along with - from monitor (- from cam was grounded earlier in engine compartment), heading into cabin to be attached to console switch. red line is cam rca cable arriving from the rear (shown later). blue is cam rca cable from front cam.
Purple line is again, the + & - wires heading to console on/off switch. (should have used split cable cover, will later)
+/- from wiper 'add a circuit' heading for the on/off button switch
Button switch. You will have to raise the console about 6", do not have to totally remove it. Be careful to drill the hole about 1/8" below the white thread. Inside you will have to put on the button switch nut and you need a little space above it, plus you cut into the white trim thread and it will fray and not be neat. Hole must not be bigger than the switch part you insert, the button lip on the outside is small, you wouldnt want the switch to fall in the first time you press it!! Recommend you drill test hole in some scrap, test fit!! You can have led never on, on only when pressed, or on all the time you have power from fuse panel. (i did all the time when power present, your choice). Also you can have momentary or clickon/clickoff. (momentary seems bad to press and drive) Here is a nice UTube to understand how to raise the console enough to reach under, which is all you need to do. The part about removing the gearshift **** can be bypassed. You need only watch until 8min10sec, at which point you can reach under. Hint: solder your three 8-12" leads on the switch , insulate solder points VERY good, then insert leads and switch into hole from outside, thread three switch leads into nut, run nut to switch and screw on tight, then attach your three leads to + in from fuse panel, +out to front cam&monitor, -wire to monitor&fuse panel ground.
Power on distance test. (actually after i got rear & front completed)
Installed rear camera, top two are before touchup painted. (painted the tag screw/bolts while doing cam touchup!)
The rear cam kit had a drill "D" , outside of hole ring "A" that will be unscrewed from actual cam "B". "C" is a metal prong ring that will be inside of the drilled hole so cam wont fall out of the car, the ring "A" screws on outside car so cam doesn't fall inside (you'll figure this out when you get the kit and try it in the hole you drill). Remove both right hand tail lights , reach in, make sure where you drill, you wont drill into some existing wire bundles. I unscrewed "A" held it against car where i wanted to drill, drew a circle around it on the car for drill location. Pulled "A" away, put drill in middle of the circle i drew, drilled hole. Its final, do it right, you have a hole!!! Put cam from inside into hole, screw "A" back onto cam. Cam +/- wire will go to wire bundle to... backup light + is light green wire (NOT dark green!) and backup light - is black wire, bundle is inside right taillight and down a little, you can disconnect and pull it out. Use clam style quick connectors to get your + to light green and your - to black wire. The cam RCA cable will have to go through the plastic into the car, open cover inside see where it's safe to drill, drill through plastic as shown in the right hand picture (i found from another person's posting) , run rca cam cable from inside taillight area into inside of car. Use black RTV to plug hole where rca cable went through.
Red line shows where RCA rear cam cable runs. You can easily tuck it under trim & rubber seals. I had mine in split cable cover, you probably don't have to use it. The bottom right just shows where to tuck all your extra rca cable and zip tie it.
Red line is the rear cam RCA cable still heading for the monitor. Purple is the +/- heading from monitor (and + from front cam) heading for on/off switch. Blue was the front cam RCA cable
All attached
This shows you the 3M SJ3560 used to attach the monitor to dash area. Neat stuff, NO HOLES drilled!!!
Back up cam view. Engine running, on/off button pressed and car in reverse. The monitor has duel cam inputs, it shows cam 1 (yellow monitor plug) and automaticly switches to cam 2 if a signal is activated on it (white monitor plug).
Note... the rear cam can NOT be tilted as it's firm in the drilled hole. If you want to point down and see closer to the rear of the car, the 'cam in hole' is not a good idea. You can just attach the cam using same bracket like front cam, so you can tilt it wherever you want. Oh, do NOT bend the cam brackets more than 3 times, the metal doesn't bend well and just snaps.
Also you will need someone to help you line up the cams, just turn them to get a right-side-up and level view.
If you want to sit at your workspace (or kitchen counter) and hook up frontcam/rearcam/monitor/switch as a temporary test (before spending hours installing wires and stuff) , get one of these and use it for your testing battery source (or solder wires to 9v)...
The cams and monitor take so little power, a 9volt works just fine!!!!!!!!!!
If you give up trying to figure out the pins on the switch, then look at this (i went crazy before i found this diagram!!!! lol) Hooked up with 'on all the time power present' as noted in bottom right in BLUE
I ordered this for the rear cam , to see if it was better than the one i had installed... Wild-us 360 Degree High Definition Eyeball CCD Waterproof Vehicle Backup Camera with Ruler Line and Wide Angle..... I wanted to see if it was small enough to sorta hide, if you could paint it up to help make it hide, see if it would really tilt and sorta look down in order to actually see distance from rear to where you were backing into. The answers are all YES. I would have used this instead if i had bought it in the first place. Now that i have it, i will most likely go ahead and switch it out with what i had installed. Here are 3 pictures, what came in the box, how the cam tilts in its frame and locks down with allen screw, and the outer ring unscrewed. Oh, it also came with about 19' of RCA cable, so you would NOT have to purchase a RCA cable seperate, you will have more than necessary.
07-15-2015, 01:17 PM
#2
Drifting
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the tilt camera (bottom of prior post) would indeed work better than the flush mount camera i installed. here is two pictures. left shows the size of the hole that would be drilled (bit included) and could be placed as shown on left side or right side. just make sure nothing above you might drill into and remember... you drill, hole made, no re-do's!!
there is plently of room to drill , in much of that entire space all along above tag area , and the tilt would look down and out at the same time!!
here is a photo i got from bjmsam's installation...
there is plently of room to drill , in much of that entire space all along above tag area , and the tilt would look down and out at the same time!!
here is a photo i got from bjmsam's installation...
Last edited by ChevyDave; 07-18-2015 at 11:35 AM.
07-15-2015, 03:59 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Awesome write up! This might motivate me to go back through the trouble of installing my front cam. Only difference is I could hook it up to a video input on my Kenwood.
Definitely deserving of going in the master sticky!
Definitely deserving of going in the master sticky!
08-15-2015, 01:53 AM
#5
Drifting
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Besides the front and rear parking/backing cameras on the corvette , I have also installed a backup on our Nissan Altima.
Today we installed a backup on my brother-in-laws pickup, mounted above the rear tag, so that he can view the hitch when backing up to his camper! If you ever tried to hit the hitch ball to camper (by yourself), you will know you can get pretty close, but having a cam would be awesome!
Well, it seems i am getting lazy because instead of running the video cable from the rear behind his tag, to his dash area where the monitor is... i used a wireless video transmitter/receiver. It worked awesome, cost was $10.92 to save lots of time and frustration trying to get a video cable to his dash. Cars are easier, there is so much trim to run the cable behind, but a truck deals when a frame and jump to cab and hole (somewhere) to get into the cab.
really easy to setup and many places you can get them. i got mine from amazon.... "BW® 2.4G Wireless Color Video Transmitter and Receiver for The Vehicle Backup Camera/Front Car Camera"
but i bet with a quick search, a paid vendor here has them too!!!!!!
I would have used a wireless on the rear cam on the corvette (and Altima) had i had one at the time. Not necessary but for the price, would sure do it! The whole setup was created at my kitchen counter using a 9volt as testing power on the cam&wireless transmitter and then another 9volt as testing power on the monitor&wireless receiver. That sure saved hours of sitting outside in the sun setting up and wiring it all up.
Here is a really nice connector. It is waterproof and snaps tight. You can unclick it with no trouble and is reasonably small. You will see it being used in the wireless camera and monitor pictures. You can get 8 sets for about $13.50 , their general name is "2 Pin Way Car Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug with Wire AWG Marine"
Here is the wireless monitor all setup and tested on the kitchen counter. You can see the testing 9volt , and the actual cig lighter power that will be used in the truck.
A - monitor
B - wireless reciever
C - testing power source
D - actual expected power source
This set up will be retrieved from his console storage, plugged in and monitor placed on the dash. Used and removed and stored when done. Thats why it is built as a single unit away from the truck.
Here is the wireless camera all setup and tested again on the kitchen counter. Again, the testing 9volt and the actual pigtail that will be clipped onto the backup lights for actual power.
F - camera
G - wireless transmitter
H - yea ole testing 9volt
I - actual expected power source pig tail for the backup lights
not shown was the zip ties to hold the camera wire up and tight and safe.
Today we installed a backup on my brother-in-laws pickup, mounted above the rear tag, so that he can view the hitch when backing up to his camper! If you ever tried to hit the hitch ball to camper (by yourself), you will know you can get pretty close, but having a cam would be awesome!
Well, it seems i am getting lazy because instead of running the video cable from the rear behind his tag, to his dash area where the monitor is... i used a wireless video transmitter/receiver. It worked awesome, cost was $10.92 to save lots of time and frustration trying to get a video cable to his dash. Cars are easier, there is so much trim to run the cable behind, but a truck deals when a frame and jump to cab and hole (somewhere) to get into the cab.
really easy to setup and many places you can get them. i got mine from amazon.... "BW® 2.4G Wireless Color Video Transmitter and Receiver for The Vehicle Backup Camera/Front Car Camera"
but i bet with a quick search, a paid vendor here has them too!!!!!!
I would have used a wireless on the rear cam on the corvette (and Altima) had i had one at the time. Not necessary but for the price, would sure do it! The whole setup was created at my kitchen counter using a 9volt as testing power on the cam&wireless transmitter and then another 9volt as testing power on the monitor&wireless receiver. That sure saved hours of sitting outside in the sun setting up and wiring it all up.
Here is a really nice connector. It is waterproof and snaps tight. You can unclick it with no trouble and is reasonably small. You will see it being used in the wireless camera and monitor pictures. You can get 8 sets for about $13.50 , their general name is "2 Pin Way Car Waterproof Electrical Connector Plug with Wire AWG Marine"
Here is the wireless monitor all setup and tested on the kitchen counter. You can see the testing 9volt , and the actual cig lighter power that will be used in the truck.
A - monitor
B - wireless reciever
C - testing power source
D - actual expected power source
This set up will be retrieved from his console storage, plugged in and monitor placed on the dash. Used and removed and stored when done. Thats why it is built as a single unit away from the truck.
Here is the wireless camera all setup and tested again on the kitchen counter. Again, the testing 9volt and the actual pigtail that will be clipped onto the backup lights for actual power.
F - camera
G - wireless transmitter
H - yea ole testing 9volt
I - actual expected power source pig tail for the backup lights
not shown was the zip ties to hold the camera wire up and tight and safe.
Last edited by ChevyDave; 08-15-2015 at 03:18 AM.
08-15-2015, 09:25 AM
#6
Racer
09-06-2015, 05:10 PM
#7
Drifting
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ok, so if you promise not to laugh at the duct tape DYI....
created for someone that needed a backup camera for a large long camper. they wanted something multi purpose and temporary. temporary meaning used and then stored until needed again. wireless transmitter & receivers are awesome!!!!
so here it is.. (remember not to laugh at the duct tape!)
this was created from parts i had around , on then kitchen counter. we put a 60lb holding magnet (not shown) on the clamp so that either the goose neck could be clamped onto camper back bumper or held there with the magnet. then the hand held monitor could verify what the backup camera was seeing, go to the truck cab and backup.
the goose neck camera could also be put onto the camper tongue area so that it points at the hitch receiver area, thus backing up with hand held view of the ball to receiver alignment and moment they match.
created for someone that needed a backup camera for a large long camper. they wanted something multi purpose and temporary. temporary meaning used and then stored until needed again. wireless transmitter & receivers are awesome!!!!
so here it is.. (remember not to laugh at the duct tape!)
this was created from parts i had around , on then kitchen counter. we put a 60lb holding magnet (not shown) on the clamp so that either the goose neck could be clamped onto camper back bumper or held there with the magnet. then the hand held monitor could verify what the backup camera was seeing, go to the truck cab and backup.
the goose neck camera could also be put onto the camper tongue area so that it points at the hitch receiver area, thus backing up with hand held view of the ball to receiver alignment and moment they match.
Last edited by ChevyDave; 09-06-2015 at 06:00 PM.
09-06-2015, 05:51 PM
#8
Drifting
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thought i might as well show some detail for the 'add a fuse circuit' or also called 'fuse tap'.
here is the fuse manual picture of my 2011 that shows where the wiper/heated seat fuse is located. yours should be the same. most choose that one as it is only powered live when the car is running. just poke your head into the passenger foot kick area, pull the floor/carpet toward you exposing the fuses.
pull the fuse circled in red. note that the fuse puller is 'fuse plr' toward the upper left. put the pulled fuse into the bottom slot of the add a fuse. the bottom slot is the one closet to the prongs that will be inserted back into the pulled fuse slot....
get a new fuse , 2 amp is plenty, but i had a 3 sitting around so am showing it. the fuse is to protect your car & wiring, not to protect the monitor. the point is that 2 amp fuse is plenty. put that new fuse into the remaining open top slot.
put the fuse tap into the open wiper/heated seat fuse slot like so...
the ground can be put at the screw bottom left of fuse panel. this is mine, yes it looks really cluttered up, i've added quite a bit in there and need to pull it and rewire it cleanly.. lol...
here is the fuse manual picture of my 2011 that shows where the wiper/heated seat fuse is located. yours should be the same. most choose that one as it is only powered live when the car is running. just poke your head into the passenger foot kick area, pull the floor/carpet toward you exposing the fuses.
pull the fuse circled in red. note that the fuse puller is 'fuse plr' toward the upper left. put the pulled fuse into the bottom slot of the add a fuse. the bottom slot is the one closet to the prongs that will be inserted back into the pulled fuse slot....
get a new fuse , 2 amp is plenty, but i had a 3 sitting around so am showing it. the fuse is to protect your car & wiring, not to protect the monitor. the point is that 2 amp fuse is plenty. put that new fuse into the remaining open top slot.
put the fuse tap into the open wiper/heated seat fuse slot like so...
the ground can be put at the screw bottom left of fuse panel. this is mine, yes it looks really cluttered up, i've added quite a bit in there and need to pull it and rewire it cleanly.. lol...
Last edited by ChevyDave; 09-06-2015 at 06:32 PM.
09-06-2015, 06:09 PM
#9
This definitely gets the wheels turning. Thanks for taking the time to document and share this with us.
09-09-2015, 03:02 PM
#10
Drifting
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wondering what the monitor will show parking as well as backing up? the camera i used to record doesn't do well in close up movies, pretty fuzzy , but still, i think you can see what the monitor is showing.
a still picture , front parking camera. i can see that the camera needs to be tilted a little up i think. i would think that the red lines in the monitor should indicate nose in danger zone. probably the way it is now, the yellow nose reaching the red monitor line probably is when you are actually touching the object, not good....
doing a front parking test...
backing up camera testing. shows that a camera pointed "out and down" (see post #2) would be much better than a "straight out" looking one...
a still picture , front parking camera. i can see that the camera needs to be tilted a little up i think. i would think that the red lines in the monitor should indicate nose in danger zone. probably the way it is now, the yellow nose reaching the red monitor line probably is when you are actually touching the object, not good....
doing a front parking test...
backing up camera testing. shows that a camera pointed "out and down" (see post #2) would be much better than a "straight out" looking one...
Last edited by ChevyDave; 09-09-2015 at 04:00 PM.
09-09-2015, 05:15 PM
#11
Drifting
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reviewing what could have been done different , i came up with 3 things..
1) i might have placed the on/off power switch for the monitor and front cam a little further back on the console. maybe from the red circle to the green circle area. however , looking up the price of replacing where the hole was drilled for the switch , it appears that it is MUCH cheaper than the armrest console part if you need to replace it (without your drilled hole) for any reason. So, maybe i wouldnt change a thing. Replacing part 15940880 is much cheaper than 20957056. If i would keep the switch in the same place, i would NOT have nicked the white thread at the top of the console when drilling, thats a bad thing as i had to put a tiny dab of glue to ensure it didnt unravel or fuzz!
2) i would have used a wireless transmitter/receiver for the rear camera to monitor. using a rca cable all the way to the front was not a problem , its just there would be a whole lot less work to get the signal to the monitor wirelessly. no hole to drill into the cabin and no running cable around inside. cost wise, about $11 minus the rca cable not required , so maybe $8 more. sometimes a little in cost is very well worth it!
3) absolutely would use a movable tilt type camera! i really would suggest nothing else at all. it really does hide and becomes really hard to spot. you also will be drilling UP and if you should ever remove the camera, the hole up there will be almost invisible. you MUST be able to look down and out or you just miss the important 3 feet out from the bottom rear of the car. The cost is almost identical!
Left picture is the tilt camera , middle is a sample where you could put it on the driver side and rightmost is actual picture from another user here on CF.
1) i might have placed the on/off power switch for the monitor and front cam a little further back on the console. maybe from the red circle to the green circle area. however , looking up the price of replacing where the hole was drilled for the switch , it appears that it is MUCH cheaper than the armrest console part if you need to replace it (without your drilled hole) for any reason. So, maybe i wouldnt change a thing. Replacing part 15940880 is much cheaper than 20957056. If i would keep the switch in the same place, i would NOT have nicked the white thread at the top of the console when drilling, thats a bad thing as i had to put a tiny dab of glue to ensure it didnt unravel or fuzz!
2) i would have used a wireless transmitter/receiver for the rear camera to monitor. using a rca cable all the way to the front was not a problem , its just there would be a whole lot less work to get the signal to the monitor wirelessly. no hole to drill into the cabin and no running cable around inside. cost wise, about $11 minus the rca cable not required , so maybe $8 more. sometimes a little in cost is very well worth it!
3) absolutely would use a movable tilt type camera! i really would suggest nothing else at all. it really does hide and becomes really hard to spot. you also will be drilling UP and if you should ever remove the camera, the hole up there will be almost invisible. you MUST be able to look down and out or you just miss the important 3 feet out from the bottom rear of the car. The cost is almost identical!
Left picture is the tilt camera , middle is a sample where you could put it on the driver side and rightmost is actual picture from another user here on CF.
Last edited by ChevyDave; 09-09-2015 at 05:27 PM.
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Mike44665 (01-08-2016)
12-04-2016, 06:20 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
This has been something I have been looking at doing for a while. You answered many of my questions. The only thing I will do different is the location of the monitor. I want to hide it for the times when the car is parked with the roof off. Your monitor looks a lot like a cell phone that a smash and grab thief may steal. Looking at gutting the visor mirror and placing the monitor under the lid. Thank you very much for the excellent post.
12-05-2016, 08:25 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
Could you install the front and rear cameras with their own wireless transmitter connected to one monitor? I hoping for no interference between front/rear transmitters. I need to look into this a lot more as I can see this installed in my car.
Thank you for the write up and thought. I miss doing this like these.
Thank you for the write up and thought. I miss doing this like these.
12-05-2016, 09:55 AM
#15
Drifting
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Could you install the front and rear cameras with their own wireless transmitter connected to one monitor? I hoping for no interference between front/rear transmitters. I need to look into this a lot more as I can see this installed in my car.
Thank you for the write up and thought. I miss doing this like these.
Thank you for the write up and thought. I miss doing this like these.
HOWEVER... the examples shown transmit on 2.4GHz frequency. My research found that ALL being sold as "wireless for backup cameras" , use the same 2.4GHz frequency. As long as you can figure out how to make only 1 transmitter transmit at a time, you would be ok (1 receiver and 2 transmitters).
12-05-2016, 12:12 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
I guess if I keep their power source on a sw that I can control I could have only one transmitter work at a time. Maybe an On-Off-On sw.
Last edited by RicardoFors68; 12-05-2016 at 12:12 PM.
