Harmonic Balancer
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Harmonic Balancer
Having owned my 2005 C6 (with 54,500 miles) since last November I have been watching the HB with a slight wobble. No chirping of the belts (or anything else), but I decided to replace it before it got worse. Tackled it Sunday for a few hours and finished it Monday afternoon. Using a friends lift made it much easier too.
Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool
Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts
First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).
Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.
Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.
Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.
At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.
Roy
Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool
Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts
First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).
Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.
Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.
Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.
At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.
Roy
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2010
Location: Honolulu Hawaii
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Good job.now give yourself a pat in the back.Congrats.did mine last year Sept time frame.plus install my stage2 blower cam from Arun@CCP and pinned the crank with a 8rib damper setup.
#4
Melting Slicks
You forgot an alignment is necessary when you pull the steering...
I would not trust putting the steering rack back on how it came off is going to be perfect.
I would not trust putting the steering rack back on how it came off is going to be perfect.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Roy
#10
Team Owner
Also, a clarification, the reason that you removed starter and exhaust was only to get the flywheel locked in place??
Last edited by cclive; 05-26-2016 at 04:09 PM.
The following users liked this post:
67-427ci (05-26-2016)
#11
Having owned my 2005 C6 (with 54,500 miles) since last November I have been watching the HB with a slight wobble. No chirping of the belts (or anything else), but I decided to replace it before it got worse. Tackled it Sunday for a few hours and finished it Monday afternoon. Using a friends lift made it much easier too.
Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool
Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts
First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).
Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.
Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.
Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.
At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.
Roy
Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool
Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts
First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).
Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.
Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.
Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.
At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.
Roy
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...hester-ny.html
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter