Having owned my 2005 C6 (with 54,500 miles) since last November I have been watching the HB with a slight wobble. No chirping of the belts (or anything else), but I decided to replace it before it got worse. Tackled it Sunday for a few hours and finished it Monday afternoon. Using a friends lift made it much easier too.

Special tools
Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool

Parts
Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts

First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).

Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.

Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.

Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.

At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.
Roy

 

Good job.now give yourself a pat in the back.Congrats.did mine last year Sept time frame.plus install my stage2 blower cam from Arun@CCP and pinned the crank with a 8rib damper setup.

 

Your steps sound like my plan.

Did it look like the exhaust gaskets really needed to be replaced with new? I have read many write-ups without mention of needing new ones.

 

You forgot an alignment is necessary when you pull the steering...
I would not trust putting the steering rack back on how it came off is going to be perfect.

 

Good job. Congratulations.

 

Good to see others doing this themselves! Did this on my c5 without a lift....took me 2 1/2 days. Honestly ill be paying someone to do it next time!!!

 

 

The only thing that can really change is the center line of the steering wheel and maybe toe-in. Caster and camber will not be affected. I plan to have it checked though.
Roy

 

The catalytic converter to manifold gasket is a crush type and should be replaced. The lower gasket is a donut type and looked OK, but I figured it would not hurt to get a new one. I could not find the flange gasket at NAPA or any other local parts house. Had to go to the dealership where the cost was $38.00.
Roy

 

Toe-in is the most likely to damage tires...so good idea to get it checked. The dealer aligned mine when they replaced the balancer under warranty.

Also, a clarification, the reason that you removed starter and exhaust was only to get the flywheel locked in place??

 

You are a braver man-person than I. I looked into doing this myself, but in the end just took my car to New Era Performance to get it done.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...hester-ny.html

 

Yes, I have an A4 so the flywheel must be locked to allow torquing of the HB bolt.
Roy