"SINISTTERC6 Twin Turbo"
01-27-2015, 01:07 AM
#1142
Drifting
I didn't see or hear any boost cut going on with the Pro EFI. I know when Chris set mine up at first I almost couldn't get the car to spin. It would pull timing and the do a boost cut sorta like a two step car was still pulling. But was popping through the exhaust. We set it up a little looser later on and found a happy medium that worked great. Not quite the power your making. but Well over 1200rwhp so I too thought you would have had a little better traction. But not sure who's tuning the car for you though. But I will repeat what my friend Bill said ASPHALT!!! Not me LOL! But looks like the car took the beating like a champ and you still got fastest RWD vehicle so still way more positive and I'm sure it was still a blast. Congrats!!!
01-27-2015, 06:50 AM
#1143
The key to the drag radials is to not let them spin. If you prevent them from spinning, they will take ALOT of power, but you have to get them to that point first. If you ever watch any of the fast DR guys (low 6 second cars), if the tire spins at all it's done! It's a really hard thing to control, and it takes precision power control to do it. We were to the point where if the car left at even 1psi more boost....the car wouldn't go down.
01-27-2015, 06:58 AM
#1144
Melting Slicks
Not at all...my car is ONLY a street car...no cage! Might see a few roll racing events, but no drag strips. It's still the best way to do boost and traction control to date. Think about it.... by speed, you actually RAMP boost through the gear. For example....I'm in 3rd gear at 2900rpm (55mph) and I stand on it. Boost by gear...I'm stuck at one number. 3rd gear will take me to 142mph. This is in the case like you discussed (passing someone without downshifting). At 3000rpm, I'm making well over 500'lbs of torque... more than enough to pass someone.
1st gear goes to 69mph
2nd gear goes to 104mph drops to 5k on the shift
3rd gear goes to 142mph drops to 5500rpm on the shift
4th gear goes to 184mph drops to 5700rpm on the shift
5th gear goes to 237mph drops to 5800rpm on the shift
Traction is STILL an issue below 150mph on the street. As you can see you are MUCH better off ramping the boost THROUGH the gear.
1st gear goes to 69mph
2nd gear goes to 104mph drops to 5k on the shift
3rd gear goes to 142mph drops to 5500rpm on the shift
4th gear goes to 184mph drops to 5700rpm on the shift
5th gear goes to 237mph drops to 5800rpm on the shift
Traction is STILL an issue below 150mph on the street. As you can see you are MUCH better off ramping the boost THROUGH the gear.
By ramping boost with gear, rpm and throttle where applicable, you not only ramp boost with speed, but you can also retain good mid range boost levels in high gears for easy relaxed overtaking etc.
Plus often for mile type events, short shifting and using the torque from the higher gears with more boost will yield a higher trap speed.
So we do agree ramping boost through the gears is good...but using gear AND rpm for each gear clearly gives you many more options than using speed alone.
01-27-2015, 07:05 AM
#1145
Melting Slicks
I didn't see or hear any boost cut going on with the Pro EFI. I know when Chris set mine up at first I almost couldn't get the car to spin. It would pull timing and the do a boost cut sorta like a two step car was still pulling. But was popping through the exhaust. We set it up a little looser later on and found a happy medium that worked great. Not quite the power your making. but Well over 1200rwhp so I too thought you would have had a little better traction. But not sure who's tuning the car for you though. But I will repeat what my friend Bill said ASPHALT!!! Not me LOL! But looks like the car took the beating like a champ and you still got fastest RWD vehicle so still way more positive and I'm sure it was still a blast. Congrats!!!
That approach would be fairly silent compared to any spark or fuel cuts
Are there any result listings from the event ?
01-27-2015, 10:34 AM
#1146
Racer
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Scottsdale Arizona
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Which is why I said using any single parameter like speed is antiquated, and you need to look into more options.
By ramping boost with gear, rpm and throttle where applicable, you not only ramp boost with speed, but you can also retain good mid range boost levels in high gears for easy relaxed overtaking etc.
Plus often for mile type events, short shifting and using the torque from the higher gears with more boost will yield a higher trap speed.
So we do agree ramping boost through the gears is good...but using gear AND rpm for each gear clearly gives you many more options than using speed alone.
By ramping boost with gear, rpm and throttle where applicable, you not only ramp boost with speed, but you can also retain good mid range boost levels in high gears for easy relaxed overtaking etc.
Plus often for mile type events, short shifting and using the torque from the higher gears with more boost will yield a higher trap speed.
So we do agree ramping boost through the gears is good...but using gear AND rpm for each gear clearly gives you many more options than using speed alone.
01-27-2015, 10:36 AM
#1147
Racer
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Location: Scottsdale Arizona
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The throttle reduction in power is about half of it, the other half comes from the reduction in timing, and occasional cutting of cylinders as NEEDED. If setup correctly, the only time you will really hear it is when the car REALLY tries to blow off the tires in an instant.
01-27-2015, 10:48 AM
#1149
Melting Slicks
I'm sure it is quite capable, but it was yourself who said speed was the only parameter you needed to map boost to.
01-27-2015, 10:50 AM
#1150
Racer
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Specifically related to this type of racing...yes! That is accurate, and still holds true. Road race guys like boost trim against throttle, and lateral g's...we do those as well. But in a straight line....Speed or time is king!
01-27-2015, 03:43 PM
#1151
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
My style of driving prefers boost by speed. That is where the car will remain.
Yes the car is now ProEFI equipped and ready from some traction control goodness
Yes the car is now ProEFI equipped and ready from some traction control goodness
01-28-2015, 04:11 AM
#1152
Drifting
Yeah that usually doesn't work that well on turbo cars. Blower cars that are directly related the the crank shaft rotation it works ok because rpm is both boost and power. My TT car and other logs I have seen once there spooled up it takes too long just letting off the throttle a little. Seen 50% tps and still full boost lol.
01-28-2015, 04:29 AM
#1153
Melting Slicks
Yeah that usually doesn't work that well on turbo cars. Blower cars that are directly related the the crank shaft rotation it works ok because rpm is both boost and power. My TT car and other logs I have seen once there spooled up it takes too long just letting off the throttle a little. Seen 50% tps and still full boost lol.
But DBW motors can operate very very fast and if closed enough offer a large reduction in power.
So it isnt unreasonable to use it as one control option.
You can see on the log snippet that it is opening and closing the blade quite a large amount, although there are no indications on the log timing is being reduced which seems a little odd, as this would typically be the first port of call as it's the fastest means of power reduction.
No matter what approaches are used, it's always a balancing act but if well tuned, it can work very well and offer good improvements to safety and driveability.
01-28-2015, 04:32 PM
#1154
hey Sinister,
any reason you run your rear shocks full hard? I would think you'd want the back LG shocks set on soft and fronts on hard so when the nose picks up on acceleration the back squats and the hard rebound of the front shocks helps sustain that squat for a little longer, but I'm sure you've tested it both ways.
reason I ask is I'm putting the same coilover on my setup now on my ~800whp 1/2 mile car and wondering what settings.
any reason you run your rear shocks full hard? I would think you'd want the back LG shocks set on soft and fronts on hard so when the nose picks up on acceleration the back squats and the hard rebound of the front shocks helps sustain that squat for a little longer, but I'm sure you've tested it both ways.
reason I ask is I'm putting the same coilover on my setup now on my ~800whp 1/2 mile car and wondering what settings.
02-04-2015, 05:41 AM
#1155
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
hey Sinister,
any reason you run your rear shocks full hard? I would think you'd want the back LG shocks set on soft and fronts on hard so when the nose picks up on acceleration the back squats and the hard rebound of the front shocks helps sustain that squat for a little longer, but I'm sure you've tested it both ways.
reason I ask is I'm putting the same coilover on my setup now on my ~800whp 1/2 mile car and wondering what settings.
any reason you run your rear shocks full hard? I would think you'd want the back LG shocks set on soft and fronts on hard so when the nose picks up on acceleration the back squats and the hard rebound of the front shocks helps sustain that squat for a little longer, but I'm sure you've tested it both ways.
reason I ask is I'm putting the same coilover on my setup now on my ~800whp 1/2 mile car and wondering what settings.
I havent tested it both ways but once I dial in the cars power and start messing with suspension and look for more traction.
02-04-2015, 09:41 AM
#1156
Team Owner
When I get home I'll look up my Viking shock chart they send. I believe it is light compression and high rebound in the rear, and opposite in the front for drag/straight line applications. They send an application chart, and I remember 0-4 compression and 12-16 rebound for rears for a drag/roll application.
02-04-2015, 09:59 AM
#1157
if you keep the back really soft it will bottom out and unload the rear tires real bad.
I always run the back as firm as possible when it has adjustable shocks and it still squats pretty good.
Of course this is on other IRS cars because I don't have any adjustable stuff on my current stuff.
I always run the back as firm as possible when it has adjustable shocks and it still squats pretty good.
Of course this is on other IRS cars because I don't have any adjustable stuff on my current stuff.
02-04-2015, 07:57 PM
#1159
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
02-04-2015, 09:03 PM
#1160
Team Owner
Viking says Stiff compression, soft rebound front, and opposite in rear for straight line racing.
Front 14-18 comp, 0-4 rebound
Rear 0-4 comp, 14-18 rebound
Front 14-18 comp, 0-4 rebound
Rear 0-4 comp, 14-18 rebound