Changing my D1 air inlet
10-20-2016, 12:42 PM
#21
Team Owner
Copy Jody's setup.
Full size radiator, modified stock shroud.
I would never recommend a cut down radiator. You can make 1000-1100 on stock inlets, and when you want more or have a race, just pop it off and run a velocity stack on the blower. No reason the daily street setup needs to make 1000+ and give up cooling and be a pain to drive worrying about overheating.
When I did my FMIC a few weeks ago the condensor was sooo nasty you couldn't even shine light through it. Once it cools off I"m pulling the condensor just to replace it with a new one to be clean and let airflow through.
Another huge thing, don't block the radiator. You need cool air. Friend here with a YSI 1200+ setup, even with coated headers, vented hood, same fan, same radiator/etc overheats still at idle, while my car runs amazingly cool. I have about 1/3" of my radiator exposed to fresh cool air. I've yet to meet a local with a FMIC that blocks 100% of the front run cool in 100+ weather.
Full size radiator, modified stock shroud.
I would never recommend a cut down radiator. You can make 1000-1100 on stock inlets, and when you want more or have a race, just pop it off and run a velocity stack on the blower. No reason the daily street setup needs to make 1000+ and give up cooling and be a pain to drive worrying about overheating.
When I did my FMIC a few weeks ago the condensor was sooo nasty you couldn't even shine light through it. Once it cools off I"m pulling the condensor just to replace it with a new one to be clean and let airflow through.
Another huge thing, don't block the radiator. You need cool air. Friend here with a YSI 1200+ setup, even with coated headers, vented hood, same fan, same radiator/etc overheats still at idle, while my car runs amazingly cool. I have about 1/3" of my radiator exposed to fresh cool air. I've yet to meet a local with a FMIC that blocks 100% of the front run cool in 100+ weather.
10-20-2016, 12:47 PM
#22
this is what I meant with notching front crash beam but it is not a game changer, just one more little thing that adds up
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rformance.html
having a good top shroud is important too like canuk said and I just copied Unreal/Canuk's setup and my car cools fantastic.
I would second a dirty condensor too. Mine looked "ok" and then when I pulled the shrouding out and intercooler there was way more ***** in there than I expected.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rformance.html
having a good top shroud is important too like canuk said and I just copied Unreal/Canuk's setup and my car cools fantastic.
I would second a dirty condensor too. Mine looked "ok" and then when I pulled the shrouding out and intercooler there was way more ***** in there than I expected.
10-20-2016, 06:31 PM
#23
Drifting
I replaced my condenser when I replaced the radiator. It was full of debris. I also run a radiator shaker guard in front of everything to act as a front line defense. It definitely helps keep most everything from getting in and clogging your coolers.
10-20-2016, 10:33 PM
#24
My current cooling system....
DeWitts shorty w/ EOC
DeWitts dual Spal fans
Evans coolant
Jeggs HD water pump w/ 160 t'stat
Custom shrouding. All the incoming air is shrouded through the radiator.
ProCharger IC has been moved forward as far as possible to allow bottom fed air access to the radiator.
Cannot drive the car in Summer heat. Cannot drive the car with the AC on.
Fall temps (80or less) the car runs 190-200 cruising, but will climb to 225+ in traffic w/o AC.
Has anyone experimented with a 3 row radiator? I've heard conflicting stories that they work great, other say too restrictive.
I'm stumped.
DeWitts shorty w/ EOC
DeWitts dual Spal fans
Evans coolant
Jeggs HD water pump w/ 160 t'stat
Custom shrouding. All the incoming air is shrouded through the radiator.
ProCharger IC has been moved forward as far as possible to allow bottom fed air access to the radiator.
Cannot drive the car in Summer heat. Cannot drive the car with the AC on.
Fall temps (80or less) the car runs 190-200 cruising, but will climb to 225+ in traffic w/o AC.
Has anyone experimented with a 3 row radiator? I've heard conflicting stories that they work great, other say too restrictive.
I'm stumped.
10-21-2016, 01:33 PM
#25
Race Director
Thread Starter
I just went through this, we have the same setup Dewitt short, D1, Dallas big mouth. I was idling at 235, running down the road 210. I dumped the EVANS coolant went 50/50 water dexcool 180 stat car idles 205-210 runs down the road 195. I will never run evans coolant again!
I thought Evans was the best coolant to use ??
10-21-2016, 02:00 PM
#26
Team Owner
Never seen a car run cool with it or it make a difference for the better.
Do a 80/20 split with 2 bottle of water wetter.
Do a 80/20 split with 2 bottle of water wetter.
10-21-2016, 05:25 PM
#27
Drifting
I also do a 15-20% coolant mixture since it sits in an attached garage all winter.
Anyone looked at the chemical composition between water wetter and some dish soap? I heard years ago they were basically the same but haven't investigated it much.
Anyone looked at the chemical composition between water wetter and some dish soap? I heard years ago they were basically the same but haven't investigated it much.
Last edited by chpmnsws6; 10-21-2016 at 05:26 PM.
10-22-2016, 07:38 AM
#28
Race Director
Thread Starter
Ordered another DeWitts and it arrived yesterday.
I now own 3.......
1. Full height w/ EOC
2. Shorty w/ EOC
3. Full height w/o EOC
I'll be installing the new #3 and using the air inlet from my old PS1 ProCharger and continue to use the Evans coolant. if the car still refuses to cool to my expectation's, then I will dump the Evans and go to the water/antifreeze mix.
If this doesn't work, guess I'll move to Alaska?
I now own 3.......
1. Full height w/ EOC
2. Shorty w/ EOC
3. Full height w/o EOC
I'll be installing the new #3 and using the air inlet from my old PS1 ProCharger and continue to use the Evans coolant. if the car still refuses to cool to my expectation's, then I will dump the Evans and go to the water/antifreeze mix.
If this doesn't work, guess I'll move to Alaska?
10-22-2016, 09:14 AM
#29
Team Owner
Ditch the evans and put a real fan setup on it, and you should be fine.
I would never run a cut down radiator on anything but a race car. If the procharger dongle is too restrictive just order an A&A or ECS one. They can support well over 1000 and won't cause any issue on a p1sc.
I would never run a cut down radiator on anything but a race car. If the procharger dongle is too restrictive just order an A&A or ECS one. They can support well over 1000 and won't cause any issue on a p1sc.
10-22-2016, 09:40 AM
#30
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St. Jude Donor '15
You can send me one of those extra radiators too
10-22-2016, 03:58 PM
#33
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St. Jude Donor '15
I got $100 with your name on it 
10-23-2016, 12:40 PM
#37
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St. Jude Donor '15
Great deal, I've just had no cooling issues fortunately so far
Which one would you want to get rid of?
Which one would you want to get rid of?
10-23-2016, 05:05 PM
#38
Race Director
Thread Starter
10-23-2016, 06:12 PM
#39
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St. Jude Donor '15
Gotcha, will think about it--great deal for sure, I've just been fortunate coolant temp wise so far