MikeERWNC

I couldn't find and topics which describe the replacement of the harmonic balancer.

Has anyone one here done their own on a C6?
I found all the other models and a lot of good info about harmonic balancer but nothing with the steps to replace.
Or even a parts list to add when doing the replacement.

Thanks.

Boomer111

I understand it is a big job to get to the balancer, 7 hours.

Not for the faint of heart.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-balancer.html

Maybe this will help

MikeERWNC

You have to look at any job you decide to do yourself as, "If they can do it, Ican do it."
If a sod layer can do it, You can do it, just remember green side up kick twice.

I have pulled them in the past... Mostly on Nissan/Datsun Z-Cars. Never ever owned a car which needed a replacement HB. I bought a one peice steel CNC'd HB. I should never have to replace that.
I am thinking I should do the water pump while I have the front of the engine off.

I guess I will be the poor sole doing the installation write up.
Which will end up as another of my how To video on the YouTubes.

Shameless plug: RideWNC on the Youtubes... Please click on ads when watching videos.
All of us making the videos need the money from your clicky.

I would love some feedback from some folks who have done theirs and any tips which they found.

Alvin@PCMofNC

I don't have a write up for you but what makes it take so long is the fact that it's nestled behind the steering rack, which has to be moved out of the way first.

I can tell you that you will want a new balancer bolt - those are torque to yield so you can only use them once. Other than that, just a good puller, and you may want a piece of threaded rod to get the new balancer seated. I use the threaded rod to get it on and seated enough, then pull it all the way on with the old bolt, then torque to spec with the new bolt.

MikeERWNC

I stopped by the dealer this morning and ordered the bolt.
I like my local Chevy dealer and I am trying to give them a little business.

Their prices are a bit to swallow for somethings...
5.00 for the bolt was not bad.

MikeERWNC

I am kind of looking forward to doing it.
I have set a side next Saturday. I will set up camers and hope for a good video from the out come.

This Saturday, I am pulling all four calipers and bead cleaning them then ceramic coating them gloss black.
Then the car gets drilled rotors and ceramic pads before I reinstall the calipers.

I have had the car a month and I have just about replaced everything I didn't like or that might fail in the next 50K miles.

Boomer111

Good luck you have more mechanical skills than I.

I'm good at following an already viewed repair but not if I come across a problem that was not addressed earlier.

Never grew up with in a diy household or took shop in school.

Plus I tend to run impatient, which is a poor attribute for mechanics.

MikeERWNC

I did all the shop classes in school.
Then I was a Diesel Mechanic in the Marine Corps for six years...
When I got out I needed to find something fun... Somebody invented computers and I decided to go that route.

Now I just do medical computer stuff.
It is more rewarding to work on a car or bike than some hospitals computer system.

Boomer111

This should be a successful venture then, good luck.

And I am envious.

MikeERWNC

If you are in the SF Bay area...
My office is in Foster City... Good ole Silicon Valley start up.

Slammedc5..

I've done some c5 cam swaps. Soon on my c6. Not hard. Just need to remove stuff to get there. Compaired to a cam and oil pump swap. Its cake. Use a good breaker bar and torque wrench. I would use an aftermarket unit though for sure. Ill be doing mine pretty soon as my car sees high Rpms alot. That's my next project. Doing my wide body quarters as soon as they get here.

pit-man

Be sure to use a longer bolt to get the new balencer started on the crank. The factory bolt will sometime strip the threads on the end of the crank because it isn't long enough till the balencer is most of the way on...(then you would have a real mess).

I went to NAPA and bought a bolt that was an inch longer and have used it many times. Just get the balencer most of the way on and take out the long bolt and finish with the factory bolt or ARP bolt.

chimazo

Removing the balancer isn't difficult, just a bit tedious, due to the fact that you need to remove the steering rack and slide it out of the way (first pic will give you idea of proximity). The first time I pulled the whole rack out, but the second time I just slid it over and out of the way (2nd pic), but I made more room by removing the alternator and PS reservoir and pulley. Total work was about the same regardless of method, though getting the rack completely out of the car is a PITA just in terms of manipulating it and having fluid get all over.

glenB

If it were me, and it was when I did my cam the first time, go with an ATI balancer and ARP bolt with Red Loctite and be done with it. There are too many posts about even the stock replacement balancers going bad. Holding the crank while tightening the balancer bolt per GM specs is a bugger.

Get a new balancer bolt washer and use it. It's diamond faced and designed to hold tension on the bolt, like magic.

The basics is unbolt the ABS module, pull the rack and have at the balancer. it also helps if you have a balancer install tool designed for the LS motor. It's longer than the older variety installer. You'll need a remover as well.

Tighten 110 Ft lbs, loosen 360*, tighten 37 ft lbs and then 230*

DSOMC6

This^ No need to purchase a special tool to install the pulley. Just add a couple large flat washers between pulley and longer bolt head. Once it threads on a ways then use the old bolt to hit the first torque number 110ft lbs. Then swap in the new bolt and finish tq`ing to spec.

If working by yourself the Kent Moore flywheel locking tool makes torquing it a breeze.

Powebond for pulley is an excellent choice for the $$. Mines worked flawlessley versus $500 for ATI.

Dngnhack

I plan on doing mine soon... was looking at getting the trickflow one since its pretty cheap and comes in stock size. Anyone ever used it before?

MikeERWNC

I know there are a lot of replies here and other places referringto ATI HB.

I looked at that one and decided if I am doing it, I want it to be there forever.
I went with Jegs. It is a CNC'd piece of steel instead of the ATI which is aluminum.
Nothing will ever damage the steel HB where the Aluminum could wear over the miles.
I don't plan on ever doing an HB replacement ever again on this car.

Boomer111

I do not blame you, I would not want to replace it again either. Fingers crossed with an '08 with 26,000 miles.

Blk 08 C6

13,500 mi. here on my 08.no wobble yet.if it starts Ill be replacing it with a aftermarket one myself.

cclive

I wouldn't touch the balancer unless you know it is bad. Also, don't forget the special diamond coated washer, otherwise you are asking for it to come loose. You should buy a new diamond coated washer and not reuse the old one.