Doing the brakes on my GS need a couple of answers.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Doing the brakes on my GS need a couple of answers.
I'm doing (strictly for the street) the brake lines (Goodridge), pads (Duralast Gold) and rotors (DBA) on my GS and I need the torque specs on the pad guide pins and caliper bolts plus any pointers that anyone might offer. I did a search but really didn't find much.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
Burning Brakes
Found this:
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt (JL9, J55) 31 N·m 23 lb ft
Rear Brake Caliper Bolt (J56) 175 N·m 129 lb ft
Front Brake Caliper Bolt (J56) 175 N·m 129 lb ft
Disc Brake Pad Pin (J56) 40 N·m 30 lb ft
I have base model, when I installed the Z06 brakes, the lines did not fit the mounting brackets. Holes had to be enlarged. Nothing other than that.
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt (JL9, J55) 31 N·m 23 lb ft
Rear Brake Caliper Bolt (J56) 175 N·m 129 lb ft
Front Brake Caliper Bolt (J56) 175 N·m 129 lb ft
Disc Brake Pad Pin (J56) 40 N·m 30 lb ft
I have base model, when I installed the Z06 brakes, the lines did not fit the mounting brackets. Holes had to be enlarged. Nothing other than that.
#4
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2005
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
SS brake lines don't flex as rubber ones do on a hard stop--The flexing can create a soft brake feel---So it's not a matter of the rubber ones being bad--just the SS ones create a firmer brake pedal and better stopping power--------
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks for the torque specs.
Stainless steel lines are just a nice upgrade while I've got everything apart. I can't honestly say that they will make a difference but their greater resistance to expansion can improve brake response, feel and modulation.
Stainless steel lines are just a nice upgrade while I've got everything apart. I can't honestly say that they will make a difference but their greater resistance to expansion can improve brake response, feel and modulation.
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jul 2010
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For my GS, I retained the OEM brake lines, they work just fine, my suggestion is if your lines are in great condition, I wold save the extra step and potential headache. YMMV....
#7
Burning Brakes
Google David farmer racing for a complete list of corvette torque specs. I keep a printed set I my toolbox.
Also, I have read several threads advising against removing the guide pins because they can be seized and the heads break off. I just remove the two caliper bolts when I swap pads. Really easy.
Also, I have read several threads advising against removing the guide pins because they can be seized and the heads break off. I just remove the two caliper bolts when I swap pads. Really easy.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Google David farmer racing for a complete list of corvette torque specs. I keep a printed set I my toolbox.
Also, I have read several threads advising against removing the guide pins because they can be seized and the heads break off. I just remove the two caliper bolts when I swap pads. Really easy.
Also, I have read several threads advising against removing the guide pins because they can be seized and the heads break off. I just remove the two caliper bolts when I swap pads. Really easy.
#9
Tech Contributor
I thought that too, I installed SS lines on my 08 for track duty and couldn't tell the difference. There are known issues with over torqued and distorted fithings making this a more difficult job than it should be.
For my GS, I retained the OEM brake lines, they work just fine, my suggestion is if your lines are in great condition, I wold save the extra step and potential headache. YMMV....
For my GS, I retained the OEM brake lines, they work just fine, my suggestion is if your lines are in great condition, I wold save the extra step and potential headache. YMMV....