Coworker added oil in the wrong place?
02-21-2015, 09:31 AM
#1
Coworker added oil in the wrong place?
Hey guys I just bought a 2010 GS and it had the dry sump which I don't know much about. I had a coworker who added oil where he thought he was supposed to add oil (on top of the motor there was a cap) but I just read on a how-to write up that you are supposed to add it where the dry sump reservoir is located. Any thoughts? I don't want to lose a car that I just bought already
02-21-2015, 10:38 AM
#2
Not the end of the world if just a quart, since the dry sump motor still pulls oil from the bottom of the pan.
Wet sump means that the oil is stored in the bottom of the pan, while dry sump means the oil is pulled from the pan to be stored in the tank instead.
The the motor still lubes the same way, with the oil falling to the pan, and in the case of a dry sump, the oil is just pulled out of the pan to be stored in the tank.
Now if he did a oil change and dumped all 10 qts of oil through the valve cover, then do not start the car!!!!! The oil level is way to high in the pan, and going to cause problems as the pistons come down and slap against the oil until the sump pump can draw the oil level down and out to place the oil in the tank instead.
Drain the oil out of the system, and start over again.
Wet sump means that the oil is stored in the bottom of the pan, while dry sump means the oil is pulled from the pan to be stored in the tank instead.
The the motor still lubes the same way, with the oil falling to the pan, and in the case of a dry sump, the oil is just pulled out of the pan to be stored in the tank.
Now if he did a oil change and dumped all 10 qts of oil through the valve cover, then do not start the car!!!!! The oil level is way to high in the pan, and going to cause problems as the pistons come down and slap against the oil until the sump pump can draw the oil level down and out to place the oil in the tank instead.
Drain the oil out of the system, and start over again.
02-21-2015, 10:51 AM
#3
Not the end of the world if just a quart, since the dry sump motor still pulls oil from the bottom of the pan.
Wet sump means that the oil is stored in the bottom of the pan, while dry sump means the oil is pulled from the pan to be stored in the tank instead.
The the motor still lubes the same way, with the oil falling to the pan, and in the case of a dry sump, the oil is just pulled out of the pan to be stored in the tank.
Now if he did a oil change and dumped all 10 qts of oil through the valve cover, then do not start the car!!!!! The oil level is way to high in the pan, and going to cause problems as the pistons come down and slap against the oil until the sump pump can draw the oil level down and out to place the oil in the tank instead.
Drain the oil out of the system, and start over again.
Wet sump means that the oil is stored in the bottom of the pan, while dry sump means the oil is pulled from the pan to be stored in the tank instead.
The the motor still lubes the same way, with the oil falling to the pan, and in the case of a dry sump, the oil is just pulled out of the pan to be stored in the tank.
Now if he did a oil change and dumped all 10 qts of oil through the valve cover, then do not start the car!!!!! The oil level is way to high in the pan, and going to cause problems as the pistons come down and slap against the oil until the sump pump can draw the oil level down and out to place the oil in the tank instead.
Drain the oil out of the system, and start over again.
That's exactly what he did! Thanks for telling me, I am going to pick it up today and hopefully they can change it
02-23-2015, 03:59 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
In addition to draining the pan...
I assume the GS is similar to the Z06. If so, there are some tabs on the oil filler plug that break off inside the valve cover when removed. Need to remove the right side valve cover and fish those tabs out before they circulate into the system.
I assume the GS is similar to the Z06. If so, there are some tabs on the oil filler plug that break off inside the valve cover when removed. Need to remove the right side valve cover and fish those tabs out before they circulate into the system.
02-23-2015, 06:06 PM
#5
Race Director
I don't have a dry sump system so I'm not sure but isn't the dip stick located on the dry sump reservoir right next to a filler cap that says MOBIL 1 on it? You'd have to see it if you check the oil level. I'll never understand how oil gets put into the valve cover especially when that cap doesn't easily come off and the one on the tank is clearly marked and visible.
02-23-2015, 09:47 PM
#6
I don't have a dry sump system so I'm not sure but isn't the dip stick located on the dry sump reservoir right next to a filler cap that says MOBIL 1 on it? You'd have to see it if you check the oil level. I'll never understand how oil gets put into the valve cover especially when that cap doesn't easily come off and the one on the tank is clearly marked and visible.
The filler cap neck location on the passenger valve cover gets a snap in flush type cover instead of even a filler neck that your cap screws into ( that is not to be removed since it will snap off the inside locking tab pieces and drop them into the valves below),
And the dip stick for the dry sump is on the side of the oil tank to check oil instead.
Worse yet, the dry sump motor has two oil plugs that need to be removed to drain the oil along with the filter, and if rocket boy did not know how to change the oil in the car, should have never touched it to be begin with.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...with-pics.html
So now to fix this mess, and hope like hell that no one started the motor, need to remove both oil plugs to drain down the new oil since he just filled the dry sump oil pan with 10qts of oil (which is meant to hold about 2qts until the pump can suck it back up into the oil tank), has to pull the passenger valve cover to remove the cap plastic prongs that snapped off inside the valve cover to fish them out/hope like hell a plastic piece did not drop down the oil passages in the heads to the dry sump pan when he was adding oil through the valve cover and has to remove the dry sump pan to find the plastic broken pieces instead, replace the valve filler neck hole cap with a new cover that the snap on lock tabs are not broken off, put the valve cover back on, put the drain plugs back in, then fill the oil tank with 10qt of oil the correct way.
The oil tank holds about 8quarts, the lines and dual stage pump, oil cooler holds about 1 1/2 quarts, and the oil that is in the bottom of the pan is sucked up to be pushed back to the tank, instead of sitting in the bottom of the pan instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 02-23-2015 at 10:02 PM.
02-23-2015, 09:51 PM
#7
Team Owner
I don't have a dry sump system so I'm not sure but isn't the dip stick located on the dry sump reservoir right next to a filler cap that says MOBIL 1 on it? You'd have to see it if you check the oil level. I'll never understand how oil gets put into the valve cover especially when that cap doesn't easily come off and the one on the tank is clearly marked and visible.
what he ask and what you answered are the same thing...I think you misread his question...
02-23-2015, 10:10 PM
#8
Yep, my bad, and when he said he had a wet sump, was envisioning the standard oil filler cap through the coil cover cap on the wet sump motors, instead of the oem oil cap on the oil tank instead.
02-24-2015, 11:39 AM
#9
Race Director
02-24-2015, 01:30 PM
#10
I actually spoke with a master tech who worked with dry sump systems and he said basically the oil recirculates. He added that if I had problems with too much oil I would start seeing smoke outta my rear end. We also checked the level and it seemed to be at mid level
02-24-2015, 02:27 PM
#11
The system uses 10qts of oil, The pump is driving off the crank, so for the pump to work , it has to be running.
The catch pan is not designed to hold 10qts, but instead around 2qts max, since again, when the motor is running, the pump pulls the oil dropping down into the catch pan to shove it back in the storage tank.
So with 10quarts of oil poured down the valve cover, the entire crank is now sitting in oil, and when the motor is started so the pump can pull the oil out of the bottom of the motor and pump all the excess oil in the pan back into the tank, the bottom of the pistons/crank arm are now slapping into the high oil level. So if the car was started with this much oil in the pan, then any damage is already done (cast aluminum pistons are not hard to damage when you start to hydro lock them from the bottom side).
As for the plastic lock tabs that where broken off the valve neck hole cover when it was removed, it's now a guessing game of where they are. You may luck out with them just making there way into the sump area, and may flushed out with the next oil change, or you may not be so lucking, and instead finds their way into something like the valve springs, and cause all kinds of havoc instead.
02-24-2015, 09:26 PM
#12
Thanks a lot for the input, I'm having the motor inspected and one hell of a scolding on my tech friend who did the oil on this car. Appreciate it!
Here is the glitch,
The system uses 10qts of oil, The pump is driving off the crank, so for the pump to work , it has to be running.
The catch pan is not designed to hold 10qts, but instead around 2qts max, since again, when the motor is running, the pump pulls the oil dropping down into the catch pan to shove it back in the storage tank.
So with 10quarts of oil poured down the valve cover, the entire crank is now sitting in oil, and when the motor is started so the pump can pull the oil out of the bottom of the motor and pump all the excess oil in the pan back into the tank, the bottom of the pistons/crank arm are now slapping into the high oil level. So if the car was started with this much oil in the pan, then any damage is already done (cast aluminum pistons are not hard to damage when you start to hydro lock them from the bottom side).
As for the plastic lock tabs that where broken off the valve neck hole cover when it was removed, it's now a guessing game of where they are. You may luck out with them just making there way into the sump area, and may flushed out with the next oil change, or you may not be so lucking, and instead finds their way into something like the valve springs, and cause all kinds of havoc instead.
The system uses 10qts of oil, The pump is driving off the crank, so for the pump to work , it has to be running.
The catch pan is not designed to hold 10qts, but instead around 2qts max, since again, when the motor is running, the pump pulls the oil dropping down into the catch pan to shove it back in the storage tank.
So with 10quarts of oil poured down the valve cover, the entire crank is now sitting in oil, and when the motor is started so the pump can pull the oil out of the bottom of the motor and pump all the excess oil in the pan back into the tank, the bottom of the pistons/crank arm are now slapping into the high oil level. So if the car was started with this much oil in the pan, then any damage is already done (cast aluminum pistons are not hard to damage when you start to hydro lock them from the bottom side).
As for the plastic lock tabs that where broken off the valve neck hole cover when it was removed, it's now a guessing game of where they are. You may luck out with them just making there way into the sump area, and may flushed out with the next oil change, or you may not be so lucking, and instead finds their way into something like the valve springs, and cause all kinds of havoc instead.
02-25-2015, 10:38 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
Here is the glitch,
The system uses 10qts of oil, The pump is driving off the crank, so for the pump to work , it has to be running.
The catch pan is not designed to hold 10qts, but instead around 2qts max, since again, when the motor is running, the pump pulls the oil dropping down into the catch pan to shove it back in the storage tank.
So with 10quarts of oil poured down the valve cover, the entire crank is now sitting in oil, and when the motor is started so the pump can pull the oil out of the bottom of the motor and pump all the excess oil in the pan back into the tank, the bottom of the pistons/crank arm are now slapping into the high oil level. So if the car was started with this much oil in the pan, then any damage is already done (cast aluminum pistons are not hard to damage when you start to hydro lock them from the bottom side).
As for the plastic lock tabs that where broken off the valve neck hole cover when it was removed, it's now a guessing game of where they are. You may luck out with them just making there way into the sump area, and may flushed out with the next oil change, or you may not be so lucking, and instead finds their way into something like the valve springs, and cause all kinds of havoc instead.
The system uses 10qts of oil, The pump is driving off the crank, so for the pump to work , it has to be running.
The catch pan is not designed to hold 10qts, but instead around 2qts max, since again, when the motor is running, the pump pulls the oil dropping down into the catch pan to shove it back in the storage tank.
So with 10quarts of oil poured down the valve cover, the entire crank is now sitting in oil, and when the motor is started so the pump can pull the oil out of the bottom of the motor and pump all the excess oil in the pan back into the tank, the bottom of the pistons/crank arm are now slapping into the high oil level. So if the car was started with this much oil in the pan, then any damage is already done (cast aluminum pistons are not hard to damage when you start to hydro lock them from the bottom side).
As for the plastic lock tabs that where broken off the valve neck hole cover when it was removed, it's now a guessing game of where they are. You may luck out with them just making there way into the sump area, and may flushed out with the next oil change, or you may not be so lucking, and instead finds their way into something like the valve springs, and cause all kinds of havoc instead.
02-25-2015, 09:08 PM
#14
So I had 2 techs from my company to look at the motor. They too looked at the motor and said that everything is where it should be. The ops manager even came out and looked. Even removed the cap on the valve cover ( much like the one pictured above). There were no tabs on there or any signs of breakage either. I'm really confused
02-26-2015, 01:16 AM
#15
So I had 2 techs from my company to look at the motor. They too looked at the motor and said that everything is where it should be. The ops manager even came out and looked. Even removed the cap on the valve cover ( much like the one pictured above). There were no tabs on there or any signs of breakage either. I'm really confused
As for the motor, on your next oil change (which I would do sooner than later), save the oil filter, cut it open cleanly, and take a good look at the filter element for any bits/specks of metal.
As stated, the motor was started up with no oil pressure for a prolonged period and way to much oil in the dry sump pan, and if such cause damage, will be showing up on the filter paper.
Silver will be off the aluminum block/heads, and bronze will be from the crank mains (hence, you don't want to see either in the filter element during the check).
02-26-2015, 01:29 AM
#16
Here is a picture of the location the tech filled the oil up
And it looks exactly like the one on the left
And it looks exactly like the one on the left
Post photo's of the sides of the valve cover cap. There should two spring loaded tabs on each side that locks the cap to the cover just like the neck filler on a wet sump motor (if they where not broken off and now somewhere in the motor instead).
As for the motor, on your next oil change (which I would do sooner than later), save the oil filter, cut it open cleanly, and take a good look at the filter element for any bits/specks of metal.
As stated, the motor was started up with no oil pressure for a prolonged period and way to much oil in the dry sump pan, and if such cause damage, will be showing up on the filter paper.
Silver will be off the aluminum block/heads, and bronze will be from the crank mains (hence, you don't want to see either in the filter element during the check).
As for the motor, on your next oil change (which I would do sooner than later), save the oil filter, cut it open cleanly, and take a good look at the filter element for any bits/specks of metal.
As stated, the motor was started up with no oil pressure for a prolonged period and way to much oil in the dry sump pan, and if such cause damage, will be showing up on the filter paper.
Silver will be off the aluminum block/heads, and bronze will be from the crank mains (hence, you don't want to see either in the filter element during the check).
Last edited by darkstarz; 02-26-2015 at 01:37 AM.
02-26-2015, 02:41 AM
#17
The parts you are showing are for the wet sump motor, hence filler neck that tab locks onto the cover, and them cap for the filler neck.
The correct cap for a dry sump LS-3 should look like this,
ACDelco FC230, gm PN#12612181
Ls-3 Dry sump valve cover cap.
The correct cap for a dry sump LS-3 should look like this,
ACDelco FC230, gm PN#12612181
Ls-3 Dry sump valve cover cap.
Last edited by Dano523; 02-26-2015 at 02:49 AM.
02-26-2015, 02:57 AM
#18
Yes I don't see any tabs that show it should be locked in place. When they removed the cap again to show me, that's exactly how it looked when they removed it
02-26-2015, 11:44 AM
#19
Race Director
Is it possible whoever changed the oil put a different cap back on it after realizing the one he took off was now broken?
02-26-2015, 03:45 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
In addition to draining the pan...
I assume the GS is similar to the Z06. If so, there are some tabs on the oil filler plug that break off inside the valve cover when removed. Need to remove the right side valve cover and fish those tabs out before they circulate into the system.
I assume the GS is similar to the Z06. If so, there are some tabs on the oil filler plug that break off inside the valve cover when removed. Need to remove the right side valve cover and fish those tabs out before they circulate into the system.
You may have to do this......