Those with tick master cylinders
#1
Those with tick master cylinders
Just finishing up install on master, ived read about the lil bit of play at the top of the pedal before you feel actual pressure im guessing because of the removal of the spring.
Has anybody tried reinstalling the spring to stiffen the top play of the pedal? I like the way the actual pressure feels but the play i might have to get used to if we cant reinstall the spring.
Has anybody tried reinstalling the spring to stiffen the top play of the pedal? I like the way the actual pressure feels but the play i might have to get used to if we cant reinstall the spring.
#2
The tick master can over stroke the slave/clutch, so you should have about 3/4" to 1" of take up until you start to feel the increase pressure if you have it adjusted correctly.
As for the OEM return spring, Does help if you have cruse control, since if the pedal bounces from all the way back up position for any reason, it will kick off the cruse control.
As for return spring, I think that the C5 spring has better feed back, while the C-6 spring has way to much over tension instead (lose the clutch feeling when you are trying to slip the clutch).
Note, either will fit in the C6.
As for the OEM return spring, Does help if you have cruse control, since if the pedal bounces from all the way back up position for any reason, it will kick off the cruse control.
As for return spring, I think that the C5 spring has better feed back, while the C-6 spring has way to much over tension instead (lose the clutch feeling when you are trying to slip the clutch).
Note, either will fit in the C6.
#4
Thanks for the replies,
So the c5 spring will have less tension at the top than the c6 spring but its better so i can still feel were the pressure actually starts. But at least it will still be a lil stiffer than no spring at all in that small play area?
And that lingenfelter, how do you like it pressure wise? The tick made things stiffer in the actual pressure area but i dont mind it its not so bad, the lingenfelter looks like it would stiffen it even more pulling the pedal back up like that? Hows it feel?
So the c5 spring will have less tension at the top than the c6 spring but its better so i can still feel were the pressure actually starts. But at least it will still be a lil stiffer than no spring at all in that small play area?
And that lingenfelter, how do you like it pressure wise? The tick made things stiffer in the actual pressure area but i dont mind it its not so bad, the lingenfelter looks like it would stiffen it even more pulling the pedal back up like that? Hows it feel?
#5
The C5 and C6 spring will still have cam over assist (less cam over pressures on the C5), while the Lingenfelter return spring spring is just constant light return tension to hold the pedal up instead.
So on that note, are you looking for a spring to just hold the pedal up tight, or are you looking for pedal assist instead.
So on that note, are you looking for a spring to just hold the pedal up tight, or are you looking for pedal assist instead.
#6
The C5 and C6 spring will still have cam over assist (less cam over pressures on the C5), while the Lingenfelter return spring spring is just constant light return tension to hold the pedal up instead.
So on that note, are you looking for a spring to just hold the pedal up tight, or are you looking for pedal assist instead.
So on that note, are you looking for a spring to just hold the pedal up tight, or are you looking for pedal assist instead.
After driving around a while and doing some nice pulls i love the tick master. Im sure removing the last restriction by the slave will make it even better, but that will come when its time for a clutch.
#7
Thanks for your info Dano i will be purchasing a lingenfelter spring.
After driving around a while and doing some nice pulls i love the tick master. Im sure removing the last restriction by the slave will make it even better, but that will come when its time for a clutch.
After driving around a while and doing some nice pulls i love the tick master. Im sure removing the last restriction by the slave will make it even better, but that will come when its time for a clutch.
Either way, make sure install a remote bleeder, and get both of the lines heat shield wrapped so you don't have burn through problems with them.
#8
Is the game plan to drill out the restrictor on the new OEM slave line, or just go to the one piece Tick line without restrictions instead?
Either way, make sure install a remote bleeder, and get both of the lines heat shield wrapped so you don't have burn through problems with them.
Either way, make sure install a remote bleeder, and get both of the lines heat shield wrapped so you don't have burn through problems with them.