Knock Sensor Pulling Timing down at 5500, Any thoughts?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Knock Sensor Pulling Timing down at 5500, Any thoughts?
Hi everyone,
Had my 05 on the Dyno a couple weeks ago. Tuner says that the knock sensor started pulling the timing back around 5500 and up. At least I think that's what he said. Doesn't mean much to me He said he did not want to dumb the knock down without knowing why it was doing it. Did not have time to figure out what was going on at that time. Going to take the car back but was wanting to become more educated prior to that. Does anyone have a clue what he is talking about? Any ideas what it could be? The car is an 05 vert with 75,000 miles on it. Cold air intake, Long Tube Headers, High Flow Cats, Borla Atak Exhaust, Fast 102 Intake, Holly Fuel Rails, Ported throttle Body, MSD Coils with Coil Power Upgrade Harness, MSD wires and a tune. I have done everything my self but the tune. When it comes to the computer and sensors I'm lost. As always your information is really appreciated.
Thank you
Travis
Had my 05 on the Dyno a couple weeks ago. Tuner says that the knock sensor started pulling the timing back around 5500 and up. At least I think that's what he said. Doesn't mean much to me He said he did not want to dumb the knock down without knowing why it was doing it. Did not have time to figure out what was going on at that time. Going to take the car back but was wanting to become more educated prior to that. Does anyone have a clue what he is talking about? Any ideas what it could be? The car is an 05 vert with 75,000 miles on it. Cold air intake, Long Tube Headers, High Flow Cats, Borla Atak Exhaust, Fast 102 Intake, Holly Fuel Rails, Ported throttle Body, MSD Coils with Coil Power Upgrade Harness, MSD wires and a tune. I have done everything my self but the tune. When it comes to the computer and sensors I'm lost. As always your information is really appreciated.
Thank you
Travis
Last edited by Travis S; 05-29-2016 at 09:12 AM.
#2
Melting Slicks
Sounds like its too lean. The tuner should not be changing the knock sensors too much. They are there to protect the motor so they may be doing their job.
Make sure the tuner is using a good wide band O2 sensor to monitor Air Fuel ratio. If its never had a tune, your mods have increased the amount of air going into the cylinder, so the VE table needs to be calibrated as well as the MAF. This is basic tuning which if your tuner doesn't understand, then you need to go to a different tuner.
Make sure the tuner is using a good wide band O2 sensor to monitor Air Fuel ratio. If its never had a tune, your mods have increased the amount of air going into the cylinder, so the VE table needs to be calibrated as well as the MAF. This is basic tuning which if your tuner doesn't understand, then you need to go to a different tuner.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Sounds like its too lean. The tuner should not be changing the knock sensors too much. They are there to protect the motor so they may be doing their job.
Make sure the tuner is using a good wide band O2 sensor to monitor Air Fuel ratio. If its never had a tune, your mods have increased the amount of air going into the cylinder, so the VE table needs to be calibrated as well as the MAF. This is basic tuning which if your tuner doesn't understand, then you need to go to a different tuner.
Make sure the tuner is using a good wide band O2 sensor to monitor Air Fuel ratio. If its never had a tune, your mods have increased the amount of air going into the cylinder, so the VE table needs to be calibrated as well as the MAF. This is basic tuning which if your tuner doesn't understand, then you need to go to a different tuner.
#4
Safety Car
but if it's 91 octane, I was just told by my VERY GOOD tuner. that he could pull anymore timing then he had already, that the motor "didn't like it" he thought maybe my piston tops had heavy carbon deposits, I'm thinking about buying a bore scope to take a look, before I pull the heads to "wash" the piston tops, I'll be interested to every body's thoughts on this, my mods are similar to yours, did you really need the "extra harness" for the MSD coils? which ones? street fire?
Last edited by CMY SIX; 05-27-2016 at 08:51 AM.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
but if it's 91 octane, I was just told by my VERY GOOD tuner. that he could pull anymore timing then he had already, that the motor "didn't like it" he thought maybe my piston tops had heavy carbon deposits, I'm thinking about buying a bore scope to take a look, before I pull the heads to "wash" the piston tops, I'll be interested to every body's thoughts on this, my mods are similar to yours, did you really need the "extra harness" for the MSD coils? which ones? street fire?
Last edited by Travis S; 05-28-2016 at 08:51 AM.
#6
Safety Car
They are the Pro Power. I don't know if I needed the harness or not. I installed because I read that the coils can draw power away from other components and are cars are already voltage sensitive. My tuner has a pretty good reputation in our area so I believe it is something with the car.
#8
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
Hi everyone,
Had my 05 on the Dyno a couple weeks ago. Tuner says that the knock sensor was hitting 6% and started pulling the timing back around 5500 and up. At least I think that's what he said. Doesn't mean much to me He said he did not want to dumb the knock down without knowing why it was doing it. Did not have time to figure out what was going on at that time. Going to take the car back but was wanting to become more educated prior to that. Does anyone have a clue what he is talking about? Any ideas what it could be? The car is an 05 vert with 75,000 miles on it. Cold air intake, Long Tube Headers, High Flow Cats, Borla Atak Exhaust, Fast 102 Intake, Holly Fuel Rails, Ported throttle Body, MSD Coils with Coil Power Upgrade Harness, MSD wires and a tune. I have done everything my self but the tune. When it comes to the computer and sensors I'm lost. As always your information is really appreciated.
Thank you
Travis
Had my 05 on the Dyno a couple weeks ago. Tuner says that the knock sensor was hitting 6% and started pulling the timing back around 5500 and up. At least I think that's what he said. Doesn't mean much to me He said he did not want to dumb the knock down without knowing why it was doing it. Did not have time to figure out what was going on at that time. Going to take the car back but was wanting to become more educated prior to that. Does anyone have a clue what he is talking about? Any ideas what it could be? The car is an 05 vert with 75,000 miles on it. Cold air intake, Long Tube Headers, High Flow Cats, Borla Atak Exhaust, Fast 102 Intake, Holly Fuel Rails, Ported throttle Body, MSD Coils with Coil Power Upgrade Harness, MSD wires and a tune. I have done everything my self but the tune. When it comes to the computer and sensors I'm lost. As always your information is really appreciated.
Thank you
Travis
Sometimes longtubes can add enough noise near the sensors to set them off when there actually isn't any knock
Sometimes it's actually too much timing, causing knock
Sometimes it's running too lean, causing knock
Tuner needs to spend some time figuring it out
Could add a can of Torco octane booster to a 1/4 tank or so to really bump up the octane in the tank and see if the knock goes away. If it does, it's probably real. If it doesn't, possible it isn't
Here is a really good video on what knock is and is caused by:
Last edited by schpenxel; 05-28-2016 at 09:40 AM.
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Travis S (05-28-2016)
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Knock sensors aren't in %. They pull timing in degrees. They are basically little microphones on the side of the engine that are sensitive to the sound/frequency that "knock" produces. How the computer interprets their signal is pretty complicated, but basically if their signal gets over a certain voltage (i.e. there is over a certain amount of noise at that frequency) then the computer will assume there is knock and will reduce ignition timing to get rid of it / save the engine from damage.
Sometimes longtubes can add enough noise near the sensors to set them off when there actually isn't any knock
Sometimes it's actually too much timing, causing knock
Sometimes it's running too lean, causing knock
Tuner needs to spend some time figuring it out
Could add a can of Torco octane booster to a 1/4 tank or so to really bump up the octane in the tank and see if the knock goes away. If it does, it's probably real. If it doesn't, possible it isn't
Here is a really good video on what knock is and is caused by:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuCUGcqO5SE
Sometimes longtubes can add enough noise near the sensors to set them off when there actually isn't any knock
Sometimes it's actually too much timing, causing knock
Sometimes it's running too lean, causing knock
Tuner needs to spend some time figuring it out
Could add a can of Torco octane booster to a 1/4 tank or so to really bump up the octane in the tank and see if the knock goes away. If it does, it's probably real. If it doesn't, possible it isn't
Here is a really good video on what knock is and is caused by:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WuCUGcqO5SE
I was hoping you would chime in. That was a good video to explain knocking to a guy like me that does not know much about the inside of the engine. It also makes me more confident in my tuner, He wants the car back on the dyno with a mix of pump and race gas to see if the knock goes away. Now I understand why. Thank you as always.
Unrelated note. I got my Monster LT1 clutch installed. Haven't really been able to drive the car much yet because of weather, but when I have it feels great. Thanks for pointing me in that direction.
#10
Race Director
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
Yeah, throwing in some race gas is a good idea to see if the knock is real or not.
Good to hear on the clutch--I really, really hate recommending clutches but I've been happy with mine too.
Good to hear on the clutch--I really, really hate recommending clutches but I've been happy with mine too.